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Paris/Alsace at Christmas

Hello fellow travelers!

Due to a cancelled trip this month that we were able to reschedule, my wife and I will be going to France for Christmas, flying into Paris! We'll be there from December 23-31. We've been to Paris one time before in 2019, so we're fine only staying a day or two there. We really want to focus our time on the Alsace region, exploring the quaint towns and Christmas markets. For those who have been before, I have a few questions. Any advice on any of the questions would be much appreciated!

1) Thoughts on a general itinerary? We were thinking potentially December 24-26 in Paris, and then December 26-30 in Alsace, and then back to Paris on December 30 before our flight the following morning on December 31.

2) Is Paris where we should be on Christmas day? I know most places won't have much to do, but I figured Paris would potentially have more to do, see, eat that day than other places. I don't know if that's the case though.

3) Should we rent a car? We've only done trains/buses before. I don't know how easy it is to drive and what the parking situation is like. I figured if we did we would rent one in Strasbourg or Colmar?

4) What are your favorite towns/places in the region you'd recommend? We don't have a set itinerary yet. I know we'll stop in Strasbourg and Colmar, but other than that we don't have anything set in stone. Some of the places that we've looked at are Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Bergheim, Kaysersberg, and Ribeauville. Also, I know that Basel, Switzerland and Freilburg, Germany are not far. Would they be worth visiting?

5) Would you stay in one town in the region as a base? I've read that a lot of people stay in Colmar to travel to surrounding cities. We pack light so changing locations isn't a huge deal, but I don't know what is preferable in that regard.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Posted by
1 posts

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Posted by
32523 posts

Declaration of Independence?

First one for that....

strange spam

Posted by
42 posts

Where did you see that the Strasbourg market ends on the 26th? I’ve seen a couple of places online that said it ended on the 30th. I really hope it’s not the 26th.

Posted by
6794 posts

@Will, I am sorry to say that it is even worse than that: many Christmas markets in Alsace typically wind down or close by 24 Dec. What I just read about Strasbourg is that it stays open until 26 Dec "at the latest", but that only the stalls that wish to do so will stay open on 24-25-26 Dec.
However, Colmar is supposed to stay open until the 29th this year.
So you should really make a beeline for Alsace if you want to see the markets. Thankfully, Alsace has more to offer than just markets.

Posted by
42 posts

Oh wow, that stinks. Thanks for the info though. The only reason I hesitate to be somewhere other than Paris on Christmas Day is that I’m concerned about not being able to find anything to do or eat that day. I assumed the smaller the city, the more difficult it would be. I don’t know if that’s the case though.

Posted by
10123 posts

You are correct about Christmas Eve and day, unless you are in a hotel with a restaurant that guarantees you reservations. There could be restaurants open but you would need to reserve in advance and if in the countryside need a car. I found a country restaurant open for Christmas Day through an ad in the local newspaper one year when we were visiting family in rural Burgundy.

Posted by
42 posts

Ok thanks. I might start looking now for reservations for a place to eat on those days.

Posted by
15560 posts

Along with the markets, many local shops (in Colmar at least -- the only place I got to in Dec) have elaborate decorations in their display windows and facades. They are likely to still be there after the 25th, at least for a few days.

All the villages are worth visiting but it's hard without a car. Most of the bus lines radiate from Colmar, not so easy to get from one village to another. Schedules are set for local needs, like getting kids to school. I recommend renting a car in Strasbourg; Colmar used to have only one company, all the main companies are in Strasbourg, at least a couple right across from the train station. Then stay in one of the villages so you avoid the relatively lengthy drive in and out of Colmar every day. I stayed at a B&B in Eguisheim and loved it.

Driving in Alsace was not difficult. You need to learn the French rules of the road, especially speed limits. On rural roads they often aren't posted. Locals seem to know where the radar/cameras are but since fines are stiff, I kept to the limits and as much as possible pulled over to let other cars pass me. The roads were in good condition, but some are narrow and most don't have shoulders. My visit was in late spring and I had to watch out for cyclists, that probably won't be an issue in winter. The drive from Strasbourg to Colmar is on a free stretch of the excellent toll road.

Posted by
9462 posts

Re the buses :

Schedules are set for local needs, like getting kids to school.

And during school holidays — like from before Christmas until after the New Year — they aren’t even operating that often (since the children are not going to school).

Posted by
42 posts

Thank you so much for all these very helpful replies! I think we’re currently leaning towards renting a car and staying in one location once we get to the region.

The only things we’re struggling with now are which days to be in the region and which town to stay in.

As far as towns, we’re thinking either Eguisheim or Riquewihr for their cuteness or Colmar for it’s train station in case we decide to go to Switzerland or Germany for a day. I know Chani said she’d stayed in Eguisheim and loved it, but I’d welcome any feedback on any of those places.

The other thing we’re struggling with is whether to go straight to Strasbourg the morning we land (December 24) or spend two days in Paris first before heading into Alsace. We’re already going to have to spend our last night in Paris, so in that sense it makes sense to go straight to Alsace and group our time in Paris at the end. But the downside would be if we can’t find anything to eat on Christmas in whatever little village we end up in.

So if anyone has any opinions on either of these questions I would gladly welcome them. If not, I’m very thankful for the valuable feedback I’ve already gotten!

Posted by
1097 posts

There are several places in Colmar to rent a car, including Hertz, Enterprise and Europcar. I have had reservations at all three leading up to our December trip. Right now I've settled on Europcar but could switch again if I get a better price.

Posted by
15560 posts

AFAIK you ca drive into a neighboring country. The only problem would be if you wanted to drop the car there.

Posted by
1357 posts

In early December 2019 we stayed in Colmar for 5 nights and also visited Eguisheim, Kaysersberg, Freiburg, Staufen and Basel on driving day trips. We then wrapped up our trip in Paris. In hindsight we should have visited a couple more Route du Vin towns in France rather than Basel but some in our group hadn't yet visited Switzerland. We enjoyed the trip (including Basel) and felt we made the right decision regarding basing in Colmar. After landing at CDG you should take the high speed train to Alsace and then return via train into central Paris. Rent a car at your base town in Alsace (easy driving). Wrap up in Paris and then take the train or cab back to CDG. If you rent a car at CDG the drive to Alsace it will take 5-6 hours each way. We got stuck having to do this because of a transportation strike that affected the trains. Cost us a visit to Strasbourg and a wine town or two. Still had a great trip!

Posted by
1362 posts

I would go with catching the train out of CDG Terminal 2 to your home base, which I will be doing at the end of November to Strasbourg. Our plan gets us into Strasbourg around 3pm, time to check in and enjoy a walk around the town & hopefully Christmas Market before heading to bed.

Posted by
11056 posts

We spent a few days in lovely Strasbourg , rented a car and then moved to one of the charming wine villages which I strongly recommend doing. The only place in Alsace we didn’t care for was Colmar.

Posted by
42 posts

Based on what I'm hearing and researching on my own, we're leaning towards taking the train to Strasbourg as soon as we land, spending the day there, renting a car and driving to whichever little town we end up being based in (probably Eguisheim or Riquewihr). Hopefully Christmas won't be too difficult to get food in one of those towns, but I can start researching it now. We'll most likely stay 5 nights and then head back to Paris for our remaining days. Thank you all for helping me navigate these decisions! I'm very excited about the trip!

Posted by
6794 posts

If you have the car, you can always drive somewhere bigger if you struggle with food options on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. I would not worry too much about it...

Posted by
1156 posts

Definitely suggest the high-speed train to Strasbourg on arrival in Paris. Strasbourg in itself is lovely, and the decorations abundant. The central square has a very large Christmas tree, and the cathedral is beautiful. We always say that walking in LaPetite area of Strasbourg is like taking a walk back in time. Almost Harry Potterish looking. We love Strasbourg and have stayed there many times. It's easily walkable and very beautiful. There are car rentals at the train station and also a block or two away. We have stayed in Colmar before, and yes it's charming, but I would think you will have better luck with dinner reservations etc. in Strasbourg. Make Strasbourg your base. The small villages you mention are wonderful for a visit and can mostly be done in a day. They are small, and pretty touristy. You can also take a train from Strasbourg over to Gegenbach, Germany easily from Strasbourg. About an hour or less in travel on the train. Save Paris for last by taking the high-speed train back and spending your last few days there. Alsace is wonderful this time of year.

Posted by
515 posts

I'm in Alsace now. I saw one website which I agree with - Strasbourg has the oldest and biggest Christmas Market, Mulhouse has the most colorful, and Colmar has the most magical one. They also say Obernai has the best gourmet market, and Ribeauville the most authentic.

The train from Strasbourg to Colmar is fast. If you have a rail pass, you can situate anywhere along the train route and get up and down. You could stay in Colmar and have dinner in Strasbourg (30 min each way). You could also go over to Basel and back.

From Colmar train station there are buses to many of the nearby cute villages. There is no bus to Eguisheim despite it being one of the closest. Its about 4 miles and you can take bus 7 to get closer, then walk a mile or so. In general the buses are spaced 1 to 2 hours apart. So do-able but not very convenient.

In addition to the markets, there is a WWII history. Famously there is an American tank next to the road near Riquiweir I think but I could be wrong. There is museum in Trurckheim. Apart from Normally, some of the nastiest battles between the US and Germany were in Alsace because Germany considered this to be German land. Around the time of the battle of the bulge, there was a mini-battle of the bulge near Colmar. There was also a Nazi concentration camp located in Alsace too.

https://standwheretheyfought.jimdofree.com/alsace-2012-the-colmar-pocket-museum-in-turckheim/

Posted by
42 posts

Oh wow! Being over there right now, do you have any idea how long the smaller markets are staying open? It’s tough to find information on them, and I just assumed they wouldn’t be open after Christmas Day.

Posted by
515 posts

Bus 106 (and possibly 109) go from Colmar station to Riquewihr, Hunawihr, and Ribeau. We paid 7 eu per person for a day pass. The bus leaves from the right side of Colmar station if you are coming out of the station. (So the left side if you are facing the station). There are numerous buses on the other side too. I think the buses run every hour up until 1 pm then every two hours. We took 11 am-ish bus to Riquewihr, then an hour later took the bus to Ribeauville, then 2 hours later took the return bus.

From Riquiwihr, you are really close to Kaysersberg which features a craft Christmas market - maybe 2 miles. But to actually get there without walking, you have to get back to Colmar then take a different bus (145 I think) and then last bus returning is 6 pm ish.

I would give this evaluation :
Colmar - the super star of the area which has got a large inner city and is decked out very nicely for Xmas, and has big crowds. The actual Xmas stalls are sparse and far between - mainly by a cathedral or two. Its even more magical at night and also crowded. Both lunch and dinner is hard to get - if you walk into a restaurant at 1 pm or 6:30 pm its likely already full - and you might have to wait 5 minutes in a line to find that out.

Kayersberg - I think this is my favorite of the little towns, although I did not go during Xmas

Riquewihr - Kind of a mini-Colmar without the canal, on a one Main Street primarily walking up a hill. Very touristy. A few small Xmas markets which feature more gourmet food - fois gras, cheese, marzipan (pate de almond), etc. A lot of tourists. I have been here twice and it does not really resonate with me that much.

Hunawihr - I would just forget about going there. Its dead quiet. No market. Almost no people. And not that picturesque. It has a nice stone church on a hill.

Ribeauville - a larger sprawling inner city with half timbered houses, but not as touristy nor as polished. Apparently no Xmas market at all. I only saw a few closed cabins. Many stores have nice building decorations like Riquiwihr and Colmar but not as extravagant. About 1/3 the tourists of Riquewihr.

Eguesheim - never been there - you can take bus 7 to "Ricoh" and walk a 1.5 miles or take a taxi as RS suggests. Its just too much hassle.

Strasbourg.- they blockade the island to all (most) car traffic. I found these Christmas market sellers to be a little classier than the ones I saw in Germany. The market stalls are mainly near the cathedral, Kleber square, and along the river. Tip : there is one free public WC near the tram "station" in Kleber square - but its hard to find because you walk down some steps.

Obernai - I saw the Xmas market but did not get in because it was 6:50 pm and they were closing it at 7 pm. Looked pretty decent albeit smallish. Very lively. A lot of half-timbered buildings - but ones that looked larger and more stately than some of the other little towns.

Mulhouse - Colorful and fairly vibrant. The town itself doesn/t seem to have as much historical feel, but the shops seem somewhat high end, and market is pretty lively - one of the few where they don't seem to have a fenced in area where you need to show your pass to get in - but you do have to show your health pass to buy some hot wine.

Selestat - mini-Xmas market by the Maire office. Seemed to be no tourists at all. This town is unpretentious and has dozens of half timbered homes spread around without much fanfare.

Basel - not far from Mulhouse. I was at their market 2 years before and enjoyed it. Its got a much different feel, and was pleasant - although a longer walk from the train station - and like all of Switzerland very expensive to eat a meal or stay overnight.

Posted by
42 posts

Thank you for a breakdown of the different towns and markets! I hope we’re able to get to some of those markets before they’re done for the season.

Posted by
343 posts

We were just at Colmar's Christmas market yesterday and Eguisheim's today. Both festive and pretty. It gets packed the later in the afternoon into evening you go. It starts to get dark around 4 or 4:30 so you can see the lights pretty early. We left the markets in Colmar before it got too late and too crowded as we were trying to be more careful due to COVID.

For me, the markets are really secondary. I like the Christmassy feel of the town that the markets bring. The stalls themselves all seem the same after a while so we just like to stroll around and visit the regular town shops, boulangeries, and restaurants.

Posted by
12 posts

I am supposed to be arriving from USA on 12/27/2021. Vacc'd and boosted but wondering if France will be "shuttered" or locked down the 2 weeks after Christmas. I know its a guess at this point but for those there...what do you think?

Posted by
814 posts

In today's Washington Post: A beacon of Christmas tradition in Strasbourg, France

There are Christmas markets, and then there’s Strasbourg. ... Dating to 1570, Strasbourg’s is one of Europe’s oldest Christmas markets, and it’s in a class of its own. The entire city is transformed with multiple themed markets, concerts, exhibitions and a festive vibe that attracts about 2 million visitors per year.
...
In 1992, the mayor’s office launched “Strasbourg, Capital of Christmas,” and the market morphed into its current incarnation: a citywide extravaganza with about 300 chalets spilling across squares and streets in the UNESCO-listed city center. A major boost for tourism, the event’s runaway success has led to concerted efforts to champion authenticity, with vendors carefully vetted and some products banned. In 2010, the city said au revoir to the churro, the sugar-dusted fried dough with Spanish origins, alongside the panini, the hot sandwich that’s most often equated with Italy, in favor of local culinary delicacies such as kouglof (a raisin-studded sweet brioche), bretzels (pretzels) and choucroute (sauerkraut).

Posted by
42 posts

We were very busy when we got back from France and I forgot to post an update about our trip for those that might want to hear. When we arrived we took the train straight to Strasbourg to rent a car and drove to our hotel in Riquewihr. We spent four nights there checking out the villages and christmas markets that were still open. Colmar's market was by far the largest and most crowded but also the best one that we were able to visit. We visited a decent number of villages, but our favorites were Kayserberg, Eguisheim, and Bergheim. Riquewihr was our favorite though, and we were glad we stayed there. We spent our last three nights in Paris, which we enjoyed a lot. I felt the time split was appropriate for us. Thanks again for all the recommendations and insight - we had an awesome trip because of it!

Posted by
13809 posts

Thanks for your update, Will! glad you had a good time. Did you do the markets in Strasbourg?

Posted by
42 posts

@Pam - Unfortunately, we were only able to be there our first night when we arrived and only for 30 minutes or so before the market closed. It was really nice though, even for that short time.

Posted by
13809 posts

Thanks! I appreciate the extra information!

Posted by
9462 posts

It sounds like you had a really great trip ! Hooray! Thanks for coming back and sharing about it