Hi Backdoor People!
My daughter is spending a term abroad in the UK this fall but her term ends on Dec 21! So rather than fly her back in the rush, my wife and I are heading over there. We have all been to the UK many times and have spent a Christmas there but only my wife has been to France. We hope to Euro-star to Paris and stay till about the 26th. BUT we'd like to hop on a train (rather not bother with a car rental) and spend the last week of the year in a smaller town. I'm thinking Chartres as its close and historic. But all of us have always wanted to see Mont Saint-Michel and our Celtic blood draws us to Brittany or Normandy. I'm curious about Caen, St Malo, Rouen. We want a quieter (and less expensive) town but being over the holidays I worry about a place that's so small everything is closed.
I'd love any recommendations of a nice historic town 1 to 3 hrs away from Paris by train that would be a good place to spend New Year's. I'd love to hear any other Christmas in Paris tips as well.
Thanks. Sean from Ashland, OR
Try Bayeux and St. Malo. I have been to both over Xmas break. In 2015 I rang in the New Year in Paris and then took a train on New Year's day to St Malo which has a beach and the weather was actually pleasant. It was fun watching the tide roll in at sun down. From there I went to Mt St Michel and then to Bayeux to use as base to see the DDay beaches and the American Cemetery. Rouen is on the way back from Bayeux to Paris if you have time to visit.
Strasbourg or Colomar. Both look magical at that time to me
If you choose Normandy or Brittany, you really need to make it easy on yourselves and rent a car. Just take the train to Rouen, Caen or Rennes and pick up your rental car and drop it back off anywhere in France (for a nominal fee) and take the train back to Paris (assuming you are departing for home out of Paris.)
We just did this in April. Renting a car and driving is so easy there. Almost no traffic; well paved maintained roads. Not hard at all and you'll have the freedom to explore everywhere you want to explore. I've heard winter is not pleasant up there but I can't speak on that.
Any interest in Christmas Markets? The first thing I thought of when I read your title was Colmar. It's smaller, not sure of the pricing over the Christmas Market season. Some of the markets run until Jan 4. It's about 2 hours away by TGV.
https://www.christmas.alsace/christmas-markets/#colmar
What a wonderful way for your daughter to wind up her semester abroad!
Thanks Pam
Until today Christmas Markets were never really on my radar. I search "France Christmas" on the forum page and most of the posts were about markets! We've done some markets in Britain in the past and they were nice and we are definitely going to check out the Tuileries and the Hotel de Ville/BVH in Paris. Thanks for the tip but our trip is roughly 12/22 to 1/5 so most of the time will be after the Christmas Market season. The Rhine was a bit further than I had in mind but I bet we'd be guaranteed of some snow and Alpine charm. Maybe I'll take a look. Thanks
I'd suggest you also investigate Troyes. It's quite charming, but also large enough to have city amenities and resources. Staying in Le Champ des Oiseaux would be ideal; its buildings date back to the 15th century, but the rooms are fitted to a very high modern standard. Exquisite place.
Thanks JPbucks
Troyes looks terrific but sadly Le Champ des Oiseaux is a bit out of our price range although it looks amazing.
Thanks for the tip
You are right to worry about everything being closed at this time. Shops and museums may be open during the day, closing early on the 31st, but unless you have made a reservation for a meal on the 31st, you are likely to find a dead town.
Do you remember the video of the American woman in the pink beret last year on New Year’s Eve in Lyon crying that everything was closed and she was alone and couldn’t eat. It’s better to stay in Paris at this time of year unless you have friends or family to invite you or a hotel with a meal guaranteed.
Otherwise, I’d say go to Nice where people will be outside and there will be fireworks, but it’s too far for your criteria.
In the dead of winter, with it being cold and dark at 17h00, I would only consider two locations, Paris or Strasbourg. 5 days in Chartres, in the middle of the winter will feel like 5 weeks. Once you see the cathedral, then what?
Paris is always interesting, active, and lively. Weather conditions will not be deterred you. Strasbourg will have the wonderful Christmas markets and holiday atmosphere.
Brittany and Normandy are wonderful, beautiful locations, but not somewhere I would spend 5 days in the middle of winter.
I've said this multiple times, but here we go...The timeframe you are traveling is going to be very poor pickings this year. 22 DEC is a Sunday, with most things closed. It's also the last day for the majority of the Christmas markets. 24 DEC is a holiday, as is the 25th. Many places also will be closed on the 26th, though the bigger cities and major attractions should be open. The 29th is another Sunday, and the 31st and 1 JAN are also holidays.
I'd look at Reims as a place to consider. Nice town, wine and good food, and 45 minutes from Paris by train. I'd also plan to stay fairly close to Paris, because you want to spend New Years Eve there. Plus, the major tourist attractions should be open. Places like Strasbourg and Colmar are nice, but those markets end early. and I expect that, as a smaller town, Colmar is going to be mostly closed down between Christmas and New Years. Strasbourg, as the EU HQ, will be more open, but that's a long way to travel for the New Years celebration.
Remember, trains and public transport will be very curtailed on the holidays.
Neither December 24 nor the 31 are holidays but some things may close early or some shops may have started a winter vacation. Shops will be jammed in the morning as people pick up their meal supplies. These are huge gastronomic holidays in France with people gathered in family and friends groups.
Make restaurant reservations.
If anything is closed the 26th, it’s personal choice, not an extension of the holiday. Alsace handles holidays differently from the rest of France due to its unique history.
Alsace handles holidays differently from the rest of France due to its unique history.
Alsace-Lorraine being what I'm most familiar with. I can say that last year small towns around the region were pretty much shuttered between Christmas and New Years. The big markets like Cora, and chains like Carrefour, were open.
Thank you, everybody. Maybe I should explain a bit more. Last year we spent a few days before Christmas in London and then went to Canterbury over the holidays. It was delightful. Quiet, uncrowded. And "things" were open--meaning churches, grocery stores, pubs, etc, and the town itself has enough to see and do just walking around to easily fill our 5 days. We had a lovely time and are hoping for a similar experience in France. We aren't looking for a NYC Times Sq. And as we will be in an Airbnb we can cook our own meals on the holidays so we won't be crying, hungry in a hotel room. I'm sure that Strasbourg and Nice are terrific but out of our price range for that time of year and probably a bit more noisy and claustrophobic than we'd like. We are looking for the Europe Through the Backdoor experience as we have had many time in Britain, Ireland and Italy.
We're really just hoping for recommendations like; "we spent a few days in Village Perdu last year and they had a lovely concert in the town hall." Our tastes and expectations are very simple. Love to get some recommendations.