Paring down the Amboise area

Been to all in the last 4 years.

My least to best:

Chamont, Amboise, Cheverney, Azy, Villandry, Chenonceau, Chambord.

I'd suggest cutting Azy on Thursday - it's a beautiful little castle on a little island, but outside of it's cute fantasy appearance from the outside it's not particularly unique.

I'd give the whole day on Friday to Chambord, and add the nearby and very interesting Blois chateau if you want more.

I might go to Clos Luce in Amboise instead of the Amboise Chateau.

You may find if you're staying in Amboise with a car that it really slows you down. I'd add 30 minutes of driving (sitting in your car) on to your plans each day just in case you're there when the hordes descend. There's a lot of one way streets, pedestrian streets, and confusing for first timers intersections. These days we avoid Amboise on holiday weekends and school holidays for that reason.

Chenonceau, Azay le Rideau, and Villandry is not optimal, but ok as long as you're prepared to drive through your lunchtime. Assuming your timed entrance at Chenonceau is for the very start of the day take the Autoroute from Sublaines/Bléré - it will save you over half an hour's driving. With the best will in the world (unless you like 19th century furniture or are gardeners with OCD) Villandry is a 90 minute (max) visit that can be scheduled for the end of the day. We usually spend not much more than a hour there. Azay is worth as much time as you can spend, but I'd say 90 minutes absolute minimum, more like 2- 2½ hours.

The next day is ok, as well. If you really must see it drive past Chambord on your way to Cheverny - it's a 30 to 45 minute addition to your drive, but you'll see all you need to see. Chaumont is a long visit, but worth it. I wouldn't skip Cheverny because it's the only chateau with its original contents (all the other chateaux are furnished with a melange of furniture with varying degrees of success).

For the record, I would have scheduled Chenonceau and Cheverny stopping at Fougères sur Bièvre for one day, and Azay le Rideau and Villandry the other, making sure to visit the villages along the Indre river (Pont du Rouan, Saché) and the church in Azay.

On a personal level I don't bother with Chambord. It's just showing off architecture (jerry built, which is why it's always covered with scaffold) with not much of a story unless you're into failed ambition and conspicuous consumption. Quite how it manages to sell itself as a chateau I've never understood, although if you were staying a week it would probably make the list for safe walks in the forest. It's got a nice big carpark for snoozing in though...

Wednesday - I would skip Amboise entirely. The château is best viewed from the opposite side of the Loire, and much of the original structure was destroyed during the Revolution; many of the limestone blocks, used in its original construction, were subsequently sold by a later owner. Instead, visit le Clos Lucé, the final home of Leonardo, who was reportedly laid to rest in the chapel, visible from the town of Amboise just below.

Thursday - You will want to visit Chenonceau at opening, before the tourist hordes arrive. It is a long drive to Azay le Rideau and Villandry. Of the two, I prefer Azay le Rideau as Villandry is famous for its grounds, not really much else There is nothing overly compelling inside.

Friday - Chaumont is an interesting contrast to Chenonceau but, unless you are interested in gardens, as there is a garden competition there each year, this might be the one to cut. Cheverny is one of the very few châteaux with its original furnishing, and if for no other reason, go there to admire the interior. My favorite château is Chambord. It is majestic and regal, beyond the other châteaux of the Loire Valley. Its staircase initiated an important architectural change that remains to this day, it is curved (actually two staircases in one as it is possible for someone to descend from on high and, at the same time, someone to ascend simultaneously, the one never meeting the other).

Yeah, this is way too many chateaus. You will be chateau’d out!!

I personally like the Amboise chateau for the view from up high back across the Loire, but it’s true that overall it might not be one of the most interesting chateaus. You could also substitute and go to Leonardo’s estate, Clos Luce, while in Amboise instead. The house itself is interesting, then there’s the garden with life-size creations of some of his well-known inventions.

What time of year are you visiting?

If you particularly like gardens, you could keep Villandry and just visit the gardens rather than the interior. I’ve done that before.

Chaumont can be dropped for this first visit. I agree with Tocard noting that the interior of Cheverny makes it interesting, while Chambord is its own magnificent site (although apparently there’s a decent bit under scaffolding now, if I remember correctly).

And the tower at Amboise (chapelle St Hubert, where Leonardo is buried) is closed for restoration, under scaffolding and cover right now (I was there this weekend).

Visiting 7 châteaux in 3 days is a whole lot. There is a risk getting fed up (prepairing my post at the same time as Kim), maybe you can’t imagine this at home but nevertheless there is a possibiliy it will happen after several visits. So include a few alternatives as a back-up in your plan. Loches for instance is a nice place, touristy but nevertheless worth to walk around. Chambord to my opinion is anyway worth seeing it from the outside and worth a detour for in case on the way to Cheverny.

I have visited most of the mentioned places and what counts for me is if it has an interesting story or if I can link it with history. Chenonceau has it all and worth reading about the rivalery between Catherine de’ Medici and Dianne de Poitier. You can do this at home and so history comes alive during your visit and make it to my opinion more involving. For this reason I would include Le Clos Lucé too because of Leonardo de Vinci and limit Château d’Amboise for instance to a visit to his tomb. If of interest ofcourse.

Felt no connection with Cheverny for this reason and the hunting dogs there gave me the impression being emotionally neglected, leading a boring life, with the only goal waiting for their meal.

Wil brings up a good point. The interest of seeing the chateau interiors at Cheverny is, for me, also dampered by seeing / thinking about those dogs.

Anyone who has kept hounds will tell you they are happy to spend all day sleeping unless there is "stuff" happening. Sometimes they like to come over and have a head rub, sometimes they don't need humans. I've never noticed any worrying behaviour being shown - they just spend all day being dogs with their doggy friends.

I'll agree with the others who say this is way too many châteaux and there are many other ways to spend your time in the Loire besides visiting châteaux and/or doing wine tasting. You've got a car so there is so much available to you at your free will. I personally like Amboise and find it a pleasant town despite the tourists but don't find the château interesting (though it is certainly significant in terms of its association with French history) nor do I find Le Clos Lucé interesting or worthy of a visit (though others obviously feel differently). I'd suggest visiting some of the lovely medieval towns in the area. Loches was mentioned and that is a beautiful little town and though it's château is just a medieval ruin it is a contrast to visiting the renaissance châteaux in the area. I would say the same for Chinon, a lovely medieval town with a medieval castle ruin notable as the residence of Henry II (King of England) and his famous wife and son, Eleanor of Aquitaine and Richard the Lionheart. It also has Joan of Arc connections as this is where she "miraculously recognized" King Charles VII. Saumur is another lovely town along the river but my favorite town is probably Blois, which also has my favorite château in the Loire. It is beautiful both inside and out and has decor and architectural styles spanning medieval times through the renaissance period.

You didn't mention visiting the Abbey of Fontevraud, a beautiful medieval abbey which is where Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and Richard the Lionheart are buried.

If you head west driving along the Loire starting in Saumur there is a lovely and scenic drive along the river that will pass through the gorgeous little towns/villages of Trèves, Cunault and Gennes. If you want to do something different then there are also some prehistoric, megalithic sites in the area and if you buy a Michelin map then there is an icon on the map for these features and you can incorporate these into any scenic drives you might want to do. One of the largest and most impressive dolmens in France is located in the tiny town of Bagneux just south of Saumur. It is amazing but a great part of the visit is going into the bar next to it (where you pay a few euros admission) as it has been in the same family for decades and the decor inside is original from the 50's and 60's. It's a real time warp. If you can speak a bit of French the owner will be happy to explain the history of the bar and dolmen. It's been a few years since I've been there so I hope the bar is still there and operating and that the decor hasn't changed:

https://www.ot-saumur.fr/en/chips/bagneux-dolmen-5376808/

Research the tourist office websites for any town you may want to visit as they are loaded with info about what to see and do in each town/village as well as their environs:

https://www.amboise-valdeloire.co.uk/

https://www.bloischambord.co.uk/on-the-agenda/more-information/tourism-information-centers/office-de-tourisme-blois-chambord-val-de-loire-1525911

https://www.ot-saumur.fr/en/

https://loches-loirevalley.co.uk/

https://www.azay-chinon-valdeloire.com/en/

https://www.fontevraud.fr/en/royal-abbey/discover-fontevraud-royal-abbey/

The blog/website below has some good ideas for off the beaten path, pretty little villages you could visit:

https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-prettiest-villages-in-the-loire-valley/

If you really want to do something weird and fun then look for the little village called Le Sale Village (which means "The Dirty Village"). There is a menhir in town in someone's yard that you can see from the street. Apparently the village got its name because one day a noble woman in a carriage came riding through town and upon exiting her carriage she stepped in some mud and exclaimed "What a dirty village!" So the inhabitants changed the village name from whatever it used to be to Le Sale Village in honor of her visit!

About the dogs of Cheverny, it's how you interpret body language but for me it didn't look and felt good.

The above suggestion to visit Chinon is good advice. It's a beautiful town and the castle is pretty cool too.

I would say the same for Saumur, absolutely lovely little city. And the historic troglodyte cave village just to the north is IMO The Loire Valley's most overlooked tourist site for sure. It's literally dug into caves underneath vineyards above, and you can walk around in it just like any other little village. They cut some holes in places in the cave roof for light, but also where they could just throw the grapes down at harvest to start making the wine. It's very interesting and unique.

Hank - that sounds like Souzay Champigny, which is east of Saumur towards Fontevraud. The best thing is the bike route which goes through the caves.

Let's face it; in the Loire you are spoiled for choice, and just like most other places, you have to make some tough decisions. Base them on what YOU want to see and do, no one else. Only you know what your interests are.

Whether to do 3 or only 2 places per day depends on your energy levels and time of year. I will say that on our last trip (early October), we easily managed 3 chateaux per day and were still back at our hotel in time for a cocktail before dinner.

Having said that, my 2 cents: I agree that Clos Luce may be of more interest that the chateau ruin in Amboise. We arrived at Chenenceau at opening, and the early morning light was magical. I didn't bother touring the inside at Villandry, although DH went through it in about half an hour. But we spent several hours in the gardens. And speaking of gardens, if you like them, the Garden Festival at Chaumont is definitely worth a couple of hours.

I will add that the poster known as "Simon" (whom I've never met and don't know personally other than through interactions on various travel forums) lives in the Loire and they will always offer excellent first hand advice on visiting the Loire. Cheers, Simon!

Hank - that sounds like Souzay Champigny, which is east of Saumur
towards Fontevraud. The best thing is the bike route which goes
through the caves.

Simon thanks for the name and directions. You are also right the bike trail is amazing, definitely nothing else like it in the world.