I'll be be visiting Paris next week and would like recommendations on the best open markets to visit.
I'm staying at an apartment in the 5em across from the Notre Dame. I'm looking to shop for fresh organic produce, cheese and bread would like to know if there's one close to where I'll be staying. Rue Cler is the only one I've visited a lot in the past.
Additionally, any other good ones outside of the 5em would be great. I heard that the Enfants Rouges in the Marais is good?
Thanks!
If you are in the 5th, you're not far from rue Mouffetard, lots of food there. For what I think you have in mind, the Bastille market may fill the bill, and I want to be sure you've seen the video, and the Tarte Tatin ;-)
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2011/12/visit-to-a-paris-bastille-market-video/
Lebovitz says...
"My favorites are the Bastille market (11th), Batignolles (8th-17th), and the Marche d’Aligre (12th)."
Here is a rather exhaustive list provided by the city, and remember that Google Translate is your friend:
The Bastille market was my favorite, then Rue Mouffetard, then Place Monge. Depends also on which days you will be there. Bastille is on Thurs & Sunday (Sunday is best, more stuff), Rue Mouffetard is daily and Place Monge is Weds Fri & Sunday.
Rue Cler is a market street not a street market which is what I think of when I think of an 'open market' -- the best market IMHO is Belleville which is open Tuesday and Friday mornings. Great diversity of offerings. Much cheaper than the Bastille market and the pricier market streets. for markets open every day, the covered market Marche Aligre is kind of cool as well and is not far from Bastille.
If you want to go to a market where you will probably be the only tourist, the one at place de la Nation is the one for you. It is huge and spectacular. Saturday mornings on Cours de Vincennes. Easily reached by metro.
Not exactly an open market, but start at Metro Sentier and walk along rue des Petits Carreaux. This is the old Les Halles area, with shops that have been there for generations, cheeses, meats, chocolates, pastries, and fresh fruit, vegetables and fish. If I've left anything out, it's there too.
I went to the Bastille market. The produce was about the same in quality and price as at Monoprix. I got some terrific cheeses though.
There are 60-70 street markets (and market streets) in Paris on various days of the week. My fave is the Marche d'Aligre in the 12th (Tues thru Sun, less touristy, more locals, a mix of flea market and food stalls and covered food hall), but you can find lists of many of the others online and in Rick's Paris book. If you're there late in the morning as they're starting to close up shop, have a wonderful/inexpensive Moroccan tagine at one of my fave restos: La Ruche a Miel at 19 rue d'Aligre and end with hot mint tea.
The absolute closest street market to you is on Blvd. St. Germain at the Maubert-Mutualite Metro stop on Tues/Thurs/Sat (the caramels and caramel sauce are great!). There are also several other shops right there, including Laurent DeBois for cheese, etc. If you then walk a few blocks up rue Monge (away from the river), you'll find traditional sweets (free tastings!) from all around France at Le Bon Bon au Palais at 19 rue Monge (near cross street rue de Ecoles). As noted, there are also markets at Plc Monge and at the far end of rue Mouffetard.
Have fun (and know that we're all envying you)! :D
I second Marché d'Aligre. It is much cheaper for knick knacks than other markets to which I've been. Better than St. Ouen, also. There is a street of food stalls and a permanent building.
I was also told to go the Les Enfants Rouges especially for the prepared food. I didn't make it the last two times. I've heard that third time's a charm.
On and around the Rue de Buci in the 6th, not too far from your apartment, there are many food stores. I don't know if they have organic goods, but at least some of them should.
The French for "organic" is biologique (bio for short) if you're reading labels, and an organic market is a biomarché if you want to Google or inquire locally.
I walked through the rue de Buci last month. Loved it. Great little Italian deli (they do dinner upstairs in the evenings) . . . Pastavino.
Hey Harold, why do you have time to cruise RS? !?!?! Get back to sightseeing.
We speak no French but will have our RS French phrase book. Is this going to be a problem at the markets? Are some better than others for non French speakers? Are they cash only? Are you "expected" to barter (very challenging and intimadating in a foreign language :) or pay price as marked? Thanks!
Michelle, make sure you greet every shopkeeper with "Bon Jour" and a smile. Do not pick up any produce or foods. The shopkeeper will do that. Many might speak English but if you don't start out with a French greeting you will be considered rude at best. If the prices are not marked, and they almost always are, learn to say "Combien ca coute" or "Quel est la prix?", how much does this cost? We don't bargain for foods but at Marche d' Aligre we do bargain for knickknacks, but usually don't get very far since we are obviously tourists. We always take in many street markets in Paris on every trip.
Just west of the enclosed section of the Aligre is Le Baron rouge, as authentic a neighbourhood wine bar as you can find. Look at the pictures here: http://www.wineterroirs.com/2004/08/paris_wine_bars.html
You don't bargain at the food markets although at the end of the day they will offer bargains as they clear stalls. The markets don't vary all that much and it doesn't make sense IMHO to rush from one to another. For flea markets you can try bargaining. I got a watch for 10 Euro that was about 40 years old and has run perfectly for the last 4 years.
Our favorite is the Marché du Pont de l’Alma. It is truly beautiful. We always try to visit it while in Paris. This description is from the website "traveltoeat.com": "There are a lot of open air markets in Paris but this one on Avenue President Wilson, just down from the Trocadero is said to be one of the largest. This market is technically in the 16th arrondissement, but so close to the 7th that everyone from the neighborhood shops there. The market is open Wednesday and Saturday mornings, from about 7:30 to about 1:30. If you are coming from the left bank, walk across the Alma bridge and turn slightly left up Avenue de President Wilson – you can't miss the white trucks which have brought wines, cheeses, oils, spices, breads, meats and flowers from the country, parked on the street. Similarly, if you get tired of the Eiffel tower, go up to the Trocadero and turn right on Avenue President Wilson." You will not be disappointed if you go there.
