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Day trip from Lyon: where, oh where?

Bonjour!

Now, having exhausted 20% of my French, I ask upon you a question of great importance: where would you go for a day trip from Lyon?

Background: during the second week of April, I will have won (in theory) another round of Race the Reaper and thus wish to celebrate in grand style. During this momentous day, my abode will be Lyon, but I'd like to travel afield and experience a new place (and hopefully enjoy a great lunch and/or dinner, not to mention a good drink or two).

Here are my choices as I see 'em:

  1. Annecy
    PROS: Wonderful alpine scenery, amazing food, beautiful place for a walk to the lake. 2 hours by train.
    CONS: Potentially overrun with people who have the exact same idea I do. It might be raining/snowing, obscuring the wonderful Alpine scenery.

  2. Geneva
    PROS: Wonderful alpine scenery. Chance to briefly experience a small part of Switzerland. 2 hours by train.
    CONS: I've read there's not much to do there, not sure about the food, potential cruddy weather spoiling the views, expensive.

  3. Marseille
    PROS: Supposedly an interesting place with great food. 2 hours by train.
    CONS: Not really sure how much I can experience in just a day.

  4. Aix-en-Provence
    PROS: 1.5 hours by train. I literally know nothing about the place, other than it's supposed to be nice.
    CONS: I literally know nothing about the place, other than it's supposed to be nice.

Ye much-traveled explorer, were you to pick the location for your own annual celebration of another trip around the sun, where would you most likely go? One of the above, or perhaps somewhere else?

I await your wisdom!

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
11505 posts

I'd first eliminate Geneva because it's not very interesting. You take a 2-hour local train each way. Second, I'd eliminate Aix because there's no direct train. You have to go to Marseille and change. It's over 3 hours. And I thought you were coming south on this trip anyway. 3. I'd eliminate Marseille because it's large and interesting sites are spread out with a lot of old, graffiti covered buildings between sites. I used to be very fond of Marseille, but after a weekend there visiting friends a few months ago, it's no longer high on my list, but YMMV. 4. Annecy is picturesque if the weather is good.
IMHO, you are trying to go too far for a day trip. Try Vienne. I know, RS doesn't talk about it, but go ahead, look it up yourself and see what you think. It was a major Roman port city. It's in the heart of the Rhône wine region, northern part, so you won't get thirsty. And you won't be hungry on your bithday, either because there are quality places to eat.

Posted by
562 posts

I'll post a counter opinion, having been to all of these places several times. For what it's worth, I used to live in Lyon and traveled pretty extensively while there.

My first choice would be Geneva. Its old town is worth a visit. It has interesting shops, parks, and views. Even the newer business-like part of town, where I was located for over a week for work meetings, is interesting, with all the UN missions scattered about. If you're interested in physics, a visit to nearby CERN might be in the cards (would need a car).

My second choice would be Aix-en-Provence. It's a nice place to visit and stroll around. Interesting architecture, people watching, squares and fountains, and there's always the Cezanne studio (atelier des Lauves) to visit (by taxi or rental car), though there may be bus service -- I've never looked. And the TGV station is not in Marseille -- it's located between Marseille and Aix but closer to downtown Aix than downtown Marseille. Short cab ride into Aix.

My third choice would be Marseille; fascinating old city with a complex, long history. Lots to see and visit: maybe get a selfie standing in front of a "Tourists go home" graffito. If you like museums, especially history museums, go there. Honestly, I would put it in a tie with Aix. Choose Aix for if you want a smaller town, lots of college students, and pretty squares and people watching. Choose Marseille if you want a bigger, grittier city with far more interesting people watching, fascinating street markets, museums and scenery. Plus there are boat trips to the calanques if the weather is good.

My last choice, and I wouldn't bother going there even if someone offered to pay my way, would be Annecy. Perhaps because I've been around alpine lakes off and on through most of my career (I'm a geologist) I've never found anything in Annecy that makes it worth putting up with the hordes of tourists. It's simply not worth it, in my opinion, and I used to live a pretty short drive from there.

Edited to second the suggestion of Vienne. Interesting, ongoing archaeological work, good museum, lots of Roman ruins scattered around the town.

Posted by
7848 posts

There isn't any all that bad about Geneva, its just that there are many more interesting cities in Switzerland than Geneva. That said, if you have an interest in physics/math, CERN, on the outskirts of Geneva, is very much worth a visit. There is a trolley between city center and CERN. It picks up by the train station is my recollection. You could spend most of a day there. We had to get tickets 2 weeks in advance, but, I believe that has changed.

Do you like wine? Have you been to Beaune in Burgundy? Looks like it is 1.5 hours by train. The beautiful, medieval walled city is about a half mile from the train station.

Posted by
858 posts

I visited Perouges from Lyon by train. I think it took a little over an hour, then maybe half an hour of walking from the station to the old town. I really liked this town. It felt authentic, very old and not crowded. There were a few restaurants, but I didn't eat there other than a snack that reminded me of a super thin pizza crust with melted butter, cinnamon and sugar.

Posted by
632 posts

Elizabeth

And I thought you were coming south on this trip anyway.

Unfortunately, the reason I'm having to ask about day trip to Lyon is that the amazing trip you put together for me has been pushed to '27 or '28 due to illness of one of our traveling companions making it impossible to do it this year. Instead, we're doing a much shorter trip: Lyon -> Dijon -> Paris

Try Vienne ... there are quality places to eat.

I was checking that out. Apparently, there's a 200 Euro a plate two-star Michelin place that's supposed to be amazing. The scenery looks pretty nice, too, and it's a much shorter train ride.

Bob

My last choice, and I wouldn't bother going there even if someone offered to pay my way, would be Annecy.

It's interesting the number of people who've echoed your opinion of Annecy. I wanted to go to Chamonix, but there's no way to do that as a day trip from Lyon.

Jules

Have you been to Beaune in Burgundy?

Our next destination after Lyon is Dijon and we're going to visit Beaune from there since it's a short train ride.

KRS

I visited Perouges from Lyon by train.

I'll check that out. Honestly, I've never encountered that name before.

Thanks, everyone, for the tips and replies. I appreciate your time as always.

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
2524 posts

I'll agree with Vienne, not because I've been there (I have not) but because a friend sent me a beautiful photo taken in a park in Vienne and I've wanted to go there ever since.

Posted by
855 posts

Mike,
You will wait forever for anything 'wise' from me, but we do have some experience in them areas.
Of all the aforementioned, we enjoyed Aix the most. When it came time for a return visit many years later, there was no contest. Aix just has that sympa vibe that one identifies with Provence. That, plus we enjoy markets.
I understand that the zany traveler 'zebec' over on the Fodors forum has a TR for Aix titled 'D'Aix'. Might be worth a looksee?

Btw, I see that you'll also be in Dijon. A daytrip from there could be Semur-en-Auxois. Many historical buildings in Semur have been well-preserved and the restaurant that we ate at there (twice) had exactly zero tourists.

Yours in *Porcupine Treeing
I am done. the French

PS just tried to give Steve Wilson a free copy of the photo that I took of him three years ago in London. Made that attempt when he performed a solo show here in Toronto recently. But a large and markedly unsympathetic security guy intercepted me as I approached the load-in at our local music hall. Verbatim quote:
"I don't give a ____ what your envelope contains and if I did, I'd be spending my entire day doing that (passing stuff onto Steve)."

Posted by
15806 posts

Logistically very feasible by train. For a city I suggest Grenoble, for a smaller place relatively close to Lyon , my suggestion is Roanne.

Posted by
11505 posts

The problem with Aix is that the fastest travel time from Lyon to Aix city ( not TGV) is 2:58, and then there’s the return. So it’s not feasible for a day trip from Lyon. Aix is a wonderful strolling city. I’m there several times a year for different art exhibitions. It would be good for an overnight.

But if the southern part of your trip is out, then Marseille is 2 hours by train. Too long for a day trip for me, but might be okay for you. You’ll get the southern sunlight. Avoid the restaurant known for the bouillabaisse. Everyone gets warned. Everyone tries it anyway. Everyone comes back to warn others. You’ve been warned.

Vienne is one of my favorite places, but the 3-star gastronomic meal is nearby in Valence at Anne Sophie Pic’s restaurant, Maison Pic. Never been.

BTW Lyon to Nîmes is 1:45 and Montpellier is 2 hours, same as Marseille. The hangup with Aix is you have to travel to Marseille and change to a slower local train to get there.

Posted by
2212 posts

My last choice, and I wouldn't bother going there even if someone offered to pay my way, would be Annecy.

Ditto. The ostensible charm of the place eluded me entirely. Expensive, too.

We did enjoy Geneva, though it's undoubtedly not for everyone. But the International Red Cross headquarters is IMO a place everyone should visit if they have a chance. One gets an entirely different appreciation for the importance of Swiss neutrality in a contentious world. Also, the archeological museum underneath the Geneva St Peter's cathedral is one of the most interesting and informative archeological sites I've ever visited. Highly recommended.

Posted by
431 posts

I'm really interested in all the comments about not visiting Annecy. Frankly they cheer me up!

We have spent time in Lyon a few years ago and had no time for Annecy.

We spent three weeks in Switzerland last year and again, no time for Annecy, although of course we saw an awful lot of beautiful lakes and alpine scenery.

Next October we're spending over three weeks in France and I was determined to fit in Annecy, but due to travelling with family, it seems again I'll be missing out.

I was so disappointed, but now I feel so much better. Thank you all the Annecy dislikers.

Posted by
7708 posts

I definitely second the recommendations for Vienne, not missing the ruins across the Rhône (St Romain en Gal).
Pérouges is also a lovely half-day trip, and Beaune would be great too if you don't mind heading north a bit.

I don't hate Geneva but I find it's a bit far by train; Annecy is nice on a good-weather day but there's not much to do besides taking in the views; Aix-en-Provence is a delight but the bus connection from the TGV station adds hassle; Marseille is too spread out for a day trip from Lyon.

Posted by
12 posts

You could get a taste of the Annecy experience, minus the crowds, in nearby Aix-les-Bains.

Posted by
120 posts

I would decide based on the weather forecast for these places while you are in Lyon. Marseille and Aix are too far for a day trip. I personally liked Geneva's lakefront strolls and commuter boat rides and exploring the old town. If you are interested in science, CERN is a free visit while in Geneva and you can get there by public transportation from the central train station. Just need to register for a timeslot, but that is easy to do.