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Off the beaten path--Dordogne

Hi.

In the planning stages for a trip for two 60 year olds this September. Thinking about flying into Barcelona, and traveling up into the Dordogne region. Our plan is to drive, but take it slow, use the back roads as much as possible, and stay in small towns or in the country.

Wondering if people had any experiences or tips for off the beaten path things to do or places to stay in that area. Stuff that isn't mentioned (or at least not emphasized) in travel books, including Rick Steves.

As an example, our last trip to France we stayed a couple days in a refurbished 15th century villa, in a town called Moustiers Ste Marie. Pretty amazing place. https://www.moustiers.fr/en Just happened to see it on a map, looked it up, decided to try it, and really enjoyed staying there.

Or when in Portugal, we traveled to the far northeast of the country, which is practically untouristed, and spent a day, half with a guide who took us to some open air prehistoric paintings, and half visiting the ruins of Castle Melhor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castle_of_Castelo_Melhor.

I have read the Rick Steves. I am looking for enlightenment/ideas beyond what's in those pages.

Thanks in advance to all who choose to respond!

Posted by
1194 posts

Hello from Wisconsin,
South of the Dordogne River is the Garonne River, the Lot River and its tributary the Cele. Tour books don't cover these two very often, certainly not the Cele. But there will be very few tourists compared to the bus loads on the Dordogne. It is so beautiful it hurts to stop and remember it. While the Dordogne river is broad with wide roads, both the Lot and Cele Rivers, and their roads are narrow, close, and quiet. Don't miss the cave paintings in Cabrerets.

wayne iNWI

Posted by
375 posts

There's a lovely Sunday market in St. Cyprien, about 30 minutes from Sarlat. When we were there, it was very local oriented, especially compared with the big market days in Sarlat with many tourists. Loved it!

Sounds like you've driven some of the "backroads" of France, so you know that there are some that are REALLY backroads and make the trip take 3 times as long, rather than the easy going and pleasant 2 times as long :)

If you go a bit further north from Dordogne, there's Angouleme and the very cool "comic" museum. (Musée de la Bande Dessinée)

Enjoy!

Posted by
8556 posts

Here's a couple of little adventures we took that were fairly far off the beaten track. We stayed in Cadouin, a tiny Abbey village with one bakery, a restaurant, a cafe, a bio store and an ice cream shop as well as the historic abbey. We didn't find most of the chateaux and gardens and towns in the area crowded the first week of September when we were there. We had no lines anywhere -- e.g. Milandes, the big gardens on the bluff over the river etc etc.

https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2017/08/01/montferrand-du-perigord-and-its-12th-century-stone-church-st-christophe/
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2017/07/25/perfect-place-for-murder-commarque-chateau/

As you can see, in those two visits there were virtually no other tourists. We also visited several other small towns with similar results but large enough to have cafes and interesting churches to visit.

Posted by
25 posts

I do not recall if RS mentions the spectacular hilltop gardens, Les Jardins Suspendus de Marqueyssac in the Dordogne. This is topiary set on a hilltop on a scale almost beyond words.

Posted by
41 posts

We spent a week in the Dordogne in May 2018. We had read through Martin Walker's "Bruno, Chief of Police"series which is set in the Dordogne. In addition to setting a nice tone for a visit to this area, Martin Walker offers a suggested itinerary on his website. One of his suggestions for lodging was L'Auberge Medievale in Audrix, which was off the beaten path. We enjoyed a room and dinners there for several nights. We also enjoyed a day touring various caves with Christine Desdemaines-Hugon (http://www.caveconnection.fr). This is such a pleasant area.

Posted by
225 posts

Thanks very much for the suggestions! I have printed them out and hope to work them into my itinerary.

Posted by
12313 posts

In my experience, I've only visited two areas in France where I felt I was "off the beaten path". Brittany and Languedoc. If you get West of Carnac and St. Malo in Brittany, the number of tourists drops dramatically. Southwest of Carcassonne, the Pyrenees along the Spanish border is beautiful country with very few tourists. The Ardeche isn't crowded either but it didn't really have an "off the beaten path" feel for me.

Posted by
2987 posts

The best guide we've found for off-the-beaten-path driving excursions is the "Back Roads" series from DK publishing.
Will be taking "Back Roads France" with us on our own trip in May. Just glanced thru our copy and noted that there are several suggestions for the south of France in general, and for the Dordogne region in particular. Might want to give it a look to see if it might be of interest. Can usually find used copies on Amazon for just a few dollars.