October in France

Look at charming Beaune, Burgundy, near Dijon. It meets all your requirements. We have stayed there three times.

Look at Amboise in the Loire Valley. Should meet all of your requirements.

Both the Loire and Burgundy are great destinations. October has the benefit of fall colors in Burgundy vineyards: a beautiful show. Champagne is another option, also fall colors but ~10 days before Burgundy, so late Oct would be too late in Champagne.

Beaune, rent some bikes and travel from vineyard to vineyard.

Enjoy your trip.

I recommend Alsace. You can go by TGV (high speed train) to Strasbourg, then by TER (local commuter train) to Colmar (about 2 hours total?). Then rent a car at the station, and drive to Riquewihr and make it your home base. You will be directly on the Route de Vins (https://www.visit.alsace/en/the-alsace-wine-route/) where there are many charming villages, tasting rooms, vineyards will have gorgeous fall colors. You can take a hike through the public footpaths in the vineyards. Go into Colmar one day if you wish. Not sure about bike rentals, but you can inquire at the Colmar Office de Tourisme (https://tourisme-colmar.com/en/). If you feel like splurging and treating yourself, there is a 2 star Michelin restaurant in the village of Illhaeusern, the Auberge de l’Ill (https://www.auberge-de-l-ill.com/fr/). Yes, it’s pricey, but it’s one of those bucket list experiences. It will not disappoint. The tasting menus are a good value, in comparison to a la carte. Service is very helpful and friendly, not at all stuffy. You don’t have to dress up much. Business casual is fine. Coat and tie not required.

Can you tell I love this part of France? 🙃

Edit: I forgot to add that you can return directly from Strasbourg to CDG on the TGV.

We just spent three nights in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire Valley before heading south to the Dordogne- our hotel was Le Grande Monarque right in town. We loved this hotel, nicely renovated, very large guest rooms, staff was accommodating and friendly. Azay is a very good walking town and not overly busy or touristy. They offer secured parking, no restaurant but a very ample breakfast included. They have a small bar that offers a charcuterie plate.

https://legrandmonarque.com/

Until a couple of years ago, I lived near Beaune. We would go there occasionally to visit the market (which is pretty good). I now live a little less than an hour from Bayeux.

Beaune is touristy. In rural France, one rarely hears English being spoken. Even in many cities in France, English is rare.

When we would go to Beaune we could be guaranteed to hear English -- not just any English, but English with a North American accent -- being spoken, just by walking down the sidewalk among other people. It was a little jarring, to be honest. After being around French speakers for years, hearing American English being spoken is very distinctive.

If I were planning your itinerary, I would go to Alsace. Strasbourg, Colmar, and maybe a few of the smaller villages would be on my agenda. They're very beautiful in autumn.

They're also somewhat touristy, but (in my opinion) less so than Beaune.