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Seeking an itinerary for exploring prehistoric caves nr Dordogne

When: September 2024
Where: Vézère Valley (Dordogne, France)
Of Particular Interest: Pech Merle

Ten years ago I visited Lascaux, Font de Gaume and the Pôle d'interprétation de la Préhistoire. I was entralled and am finally able to return to visit Pech Merle...

I would LOVE get an itinerary for archaeological sites such as these, including suggestions on where to stay (sleep, mom&pop inn's./hotels, charming towns), and where to find good authentic local food. Working with a moderate budget.

THANK YOU SO MUCH to whoever can share their experiences to this novice solo senior traveling gal. :0D

Posted by
1090 posts

Since it has been 10 years, I recommend a return to Lascaux. Lascaux IV opened in 2015 or 2016, and is quite an improvement on Lascaux II, which is what you would have seen 10 years ago. I have been to both now, and Lascaux IV is worth a visit. I have only also been to Font de Gaum and Abri de la Madeleine, but I have heard Peche Merle, which you plan to visit, is good. Perhaps you could search the forum for references to "Prehistoric caves in the Dordogne".
Where to stay, I can't help., as there were seven of us and we rented a house between Vitrac and la Roque Gageac. We did have a really nice lunch at Les Courtines in La Roque Gageac...reasonable prices, outdoor table with nice views, very good food. Most of our dinners were at our gite, and lunches were usually at some place simple (like a cafe at a site we were visiting). The cafe at Lascaux IV was very nice, as well as one of the cafes at Beynac Castle. We had a splurge dinner at Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat, but it was a special occasion and on the expensive side.
The Dordogne area is full of charming places/towns to stay. Maybe you could filter out some places at Booking,com. Gites-de-France does have some chambres d'hote on their site also. I don't know about this area though. We have found one night B and Bs (in the true sense of the term) through Gites-de-France in Brittany, the Loire Valley, and Provence.
I assume you will have a car. Bus service between locations is not convenient in this area, in general.
Whatever you wind up doing, amusez-vous bien!

Posted by
1090 posts

only7web,
You might search for my trip report from last year titled "Just Returned from Four Weeks in France....Continued". I covers our ten days in the Dordogne area. Maybe it will help.

Posted by
76 posts

It's been years (2004) since my wife and I visited Peche Merle, hopefully the area has lost none of its charm. Peche Merle is genuine, not "synthetic" as you are likely aware. We stayed in Cabrerets after finding all accommodations in St-Cirq-La-Popie full. The hotel, Hotel Restaurant des Grottes, is still in business. Our two nights there, including a dinner on the patio over the river Cele, were sublime - and I don't use that word much. We also ate dinner in a small restaurant up the hill in Cabrerets. Being a diabetic and a hypoglycemic, we need to eat no later than 7 PM, which tends to sour the mood of most proprietors. However we were all friends within a few minutes of arrival. The church and cemetery are worth a visit as well. have a wonderful trip, envious!

Posted by
821 posts

What a great idea, returning to see more caves. I'm hoping JoLui on the forum sees this, as she is a great source of information on the area.

In late March, Early April, we visited Grotte de Font de Gaume, Lascaux IV, and Pech Merle. Pech Merle is reachable from the Vézère Valley, but after our five nights near the Dordogne, we moved to a village on the Lot River for two nights to be close to Pech Merle. Parts of my trip report might be helpful;
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-paris-lyon-dordogne-lot-toulouse

I second the recommendation to go to Lascaux IV. It's outstanding, There is a great English tour, and we also found the cafe to be good. In April, the guided tour at Pech Marle was only given in French--if that is the case when you go, unless you are very fluent in French, be sure to allow time to visit the exhibit and see the movie (subtitled in English), as it will prepare you for the tour.

I wrote a review of the small inn where we stayed about 20 minutes from Pech Merle, which is recommended in the Rick Steves guidebook. The cost was less than 100 euros/night, without breakfast. The review is here.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/france-reviews/review-of-auberge-le-sombral-in-st-cirq-lapopie

I assume you are planning to have a rental car--is that right? You should have a wonderful time.

Edited to add: When we were at Font-de-Gaume, we talked to another couple who had been to Grotte de Rouffignac, which they said was also excellent. It's fairly close to Lascaux and Font-de-Gaume. Unfortunately we didn't have time to get to that cave.

Posted by
8411 posts

while Peche Merle is a beautiful cave as caves go, the artwork with the exception of the horses is IMHO quite disappointing.

Roffignac where you take a train underground to caves where there are prehistoric drawings is quite interesting. Not polychrome, but lots of animal drawings particularly well realized mammoths -- and a lot of rather amateurish looking stuff (I always imagimed a group of 14 year olds doing it as part of an initiation ritual). They also have super t-shirts.

Posted by
3634 posts

One stop that I always recommend and rarely see mentioned is l’Abri du Cap Blanc. It’s not a cave, but the underside of a cliff. The art is almost life-size relief carvings of horses. Admission is by group only, with a guide. The tour lasts about a half hour, and the location is close to several other sites. One caveat: we visited about 20 years ago. Some specifics may have changed.

Posted by
46 posts

I just returned from the same area, with many of the same goals, in April. Lascaux IV was stupendous--such an amazing recreation in a wonderful building with engaging exhibits once you exit the cave replica. Well worth the admission charge.

Agree w/the poster upthread on Rouffignac---the little train takes you 2 km underground past images of diverse animals (mostly mammoths), cave bear scratches & wallows, and ends at the great ceiling covered in many, many animals. The cave is perched on the hillside, has outdoor public restrooms, and might make for a quick picnic stop if you timed it right. The tickets aren't sold in advance, and you either turn up early in the AM for the first tours, or just after lunch to get a spot in the afternoon tours (what we did).

In Les Eyzies, we had a peaceful, relaxing (& inexpensive) lunch at "La Dinette & Cie", an almost-riverside simple creperie near the bridge & a canoe rental place. Smoked trout, local beer & wine, friendly service that didn't mind our limping attempts to speak french. Board of specials, too. It's far enough from the main drag that the hordes miss it, and you can take a nice walk down the river path before or after lunch.

Put La Roque St. Cristophe on your list, too: while the exhibits focus on medieval history & occupation, the actual SITE is stupendous. FIve (or more) levels of slots and overhangs on a towering cliff face over the Vezere river make it easy to understand how rock shelters were favored by Cro Magnon. Then drive up the river valley to St Leon sur Vezere & have lunch at Restaurant de la Poste. Or if you're really on a budget, drop in at the town grocery, which has an array of savory & sweet pastries brought in from a bakery, and take your picnic lunch down to the riverside behind the church.

Posted by
14482 posts

On your other thread you were asking about tours....I did a Road Scholar tour of this area in 2021 and it was excellent. We visited Rouffignac, Lascaux IV and Pech Merle along with Le Gauffre de Padirac cave and the Prehistory museum in Les Eyzies. I quite enjoyed Pech Merle especially the fossilized human footprint. I'm not sure why that grabbed me so much but it did...even more than the handprint outlines.

https://www.roadscholar.org/find-an-adventure/14253/Southwest-France-Bordeaux-and-the-Perigord