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Northeast France- Reims/Verdun (WWI sites and Champagne)

My wife and I are traveling in July. I have been all over Europe, but never to this region of France. We are both history teachers, so this is factored in to our trip. We have a rental car and will be coming from Bingen, Germany (along the Rhein river). After staying in this region of France, we will move on to Paris. We have two nights in the region and I'm looking for advice on where to stay, what to see, etc.

I have done some research and so far I've read that Reims is better to stay in than Verdun. I know I want to visit the Surrender Museum in Reims and the WWI trenches (what's left of them) in Verdun. For the trenches, should we just drive to Verdun and look for signs? My wife would love the champagne and wine of the region. For this, should we just stick inside Reims for this? With about a day and a half worth of time, what would you suggest for that short time in this area? Thanks in advance for the help.

Caleb

Posted by
1996 posts

Around Verdun there are more than just a few trenches, you will need a whole day. I have visited the sites some ten years ago and used a quite basic map to drive around and it worked for me well. I have readed complaints here on the forum about the bad signposting there, so think you need a well detailed map. Usually I have Michelin Departement(s)(al) France maps (scale 1/150,000 yellow cover) to explore the countryside. I don’t have No. 307 but guess you need that for Verdun. There are also historical maps from Michelin and IGN, however no idea how usefull they will be.

I think to understand the conflict between France and Germany (as part of the WW1 conflict) in that period you have to know something about their relationship since the French-German war of 1870. The Unification of Germany was a threat to France. As an introduction I can recommend a visit to the fairly new Musée de la Grande Guerre in Meaux near Paris for the (in my eyes) excellent explanation of that relationship. I know coming from Bingen will not be obvious to do that in that order if you are interested to plan a visit to this museum too.

On the way to Reims you can visit the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery.

-In 1870 a symbolic place is Sedan (100km north-west of Verdun), where Napoleon III was defeated and lost that war. On the way to Verdun I also visited the castle there but to be honest can not say if it is worth a detour.

Still have to visit the Palais du Tau next to the Cathedral in Reims, displaying coronation objects of the French kings.

Just to mention: Château de Versailles is interesting for the Proclamation of the German Empire in 1871 and the Treaty of Versailles in 1919.

Posted by
14580 posts

@ Wil....."The unification of Germany was a threat to France." It was perceived as such. No country, small or a Great Power, in the 19th century wanted or welcomed the unification of Germany, which would mean a change in the status quo of Europe and the balance of power. Name one country that looked forward to the unification of the Germans, regardless of the form it would emerge. At most, the European countries would tacitly acquiesce. One can also say Germany could never be unified without the permission of France, regardless of the type of government (monarchist, republic) ruling in France.

Posted by
14580 posts

@ mrhandhistory....Since you're taking the route leading to Reims, I would suggest another war related to the US, if that is part of your focus, stop at Chateau Thierry, where the Second Battle of the Marne was fought in July 1918, thus ending the last of Ludendorff's offensives. The Anglo-French military cemeterie from WW 1 is there along with the big monument to the US 3rd Inf. Div. These you can see on foot from the station, as well as the "American Church" in town. The big US monument on the hill you need to car to reach. Where the Marines were injected to is near by too, part of the Marine's story on 1918. See the Surrender Museum in that school house building.

If you're coming from Bingen, will you be in Bacharach before? See the memorial plaque to where the Prussians crossed the Middle Rhine to invade France in Dec 1812, the Gedenkstein to Blücher. Where are you going from Verdun? Towards Metz? West of Metz (still in Loraine) is the village of Gravelotte, where the Prussian-German military cemetery is...poignant. Since you're motorised, you'll be able to get to the other historical villages in that immediate area...St. Privat, and Mars-la-Tour. I couldn't since I was on foot and had arrived by bus from Metz.

Posted by
1996 posts

France as the leading power on the continent in the 19th century got involved in a power struggle with upcoming Germany. Obvious the leading powers seen the potential (politically, military and economically) were not happy with the Unification, but France in particular felt that change of balance of power anyway, leading to the conflict of 1870 they lost.

With the proclaiming of the Unification (in Versailles) on their territory and the loss of Alsace-Lorraine explained the hostile sentiments (Revanchism / patriotism) in France in the period to come actually prepairing for another conflict, explaining as one of the causes of WO1.

This is well explained in the museum in Meaux and for that I think a good reason to pay a visit as it gives more insight why the start of WO1 escalated so quickly and the fights were so ridiculously intense.

Posted by
4054 posts

Here's another vote for Musée de la Grande Guerre in Meaux http://www.museedelagrandeguerre.eu/en
It's an easy train ride from Gare de l'est in Paris. The museum strives to explain life in the trenches and implications for the civilian populations as well as military strategy.
To add to the discussion of war's roots, it was an era of imperialism and Germany had seized territories in Africa that challenged English and French dominance on that continent. The first rifle shot of the entire war was fired in Africa by a colonial soldier, probably from what is now called South Asia. There's always more to learn about the first around-the-world war.

Posted by
14580 posts

I have not seen the museum in Meaux, know that it's well worth visiting for historical purposes, and want to see if it has a particular slant to it, if any, which is probably a "given" in a history museum anyway. In 1870-71 France lost because it was diplomatically isolated and militarily beaten. The government should never have declared war regardless of the clamourings of the Parisian mob that had taken to the streets.

Posted by
11613 posts

Regarding champagne, Reims is a great place to stay. You can follow the Champagne Road, or tour one of the wineries nearby - there is at least one in Reims itself.

Posted by
15607 posts

I went to Reims/Epernay as an overnight from Paris by train. I enjoyed the Surrender Museum and would recommend it even to someone who's not a history buff. Ask at the desk for (free) copies of the documents on display. A group of VFW's asked for one, I think it was might have been the signed surrender agreement (English). I took one and gave it to a good friend as a souvenir.

Both the Reims cathedral and the basilica are worth seeing. The TI in Reims will help you plan your time and reserve champagne tours. You can easily visit 2-4 caves in a day. The museum is the "other side" of town from churches and most of the caves. The trams are easy to use to save time to/from the few sights that aren't in walking distance.

Epernay is an easy day trip by train, a pretty town center, then walk along L'avenue de Champagne, passing every champagne house you've heard of and many more. Near the end is Mercier, which has a fun tour.

I took two tours in Reims, Martel and Tattinger. The 3 tours were all enjoyable, very little overlap (just a little about the méthode champenoise). They focus mostly on the history of the region/the family/the winery. Martel was the most generous with tasting, Tattinger the stingiest (but they did pour their expensive wines).

Plan to drive before champagne tours/tastings.