Hi all,
I am headed to France for the second time, but this will be my first visit to Normandy. There is plenty of information about the American (and other Allied) sites, but I was wondering if there is somewhere that covers the French experience. La Résistance, and life under occupation, etc.?
I'm planning on popping by the German War Cemetery in La Cambe as well, as I am looking to make this as well-rounded a visit as possible.
Thank you!
The Airborne Museum in Sainte-Mère-Eglise has some exhibits with video-ed remembrances of the time from citizens. I found the interviews moving. https://airborne-museum.org/en/the-museum/discover-the-museum/
The Caen Memorial museum is extensive with personal recollections and good coverage over many aspects of the WWII years. https://www.memorial-caen.com
I thought the Bayeux Museum was good, but don't remember the same number of remembrances from French citizens as the above museums. Good focus on Normandy Battle timelines. https://www.bayeuxmuseum.com/en/memorial-museum-battle-of-normandy/
There are a number of other small museum in various towns - these above are the ones I visited on a trip last fall.
You are probably aware of the The Liberation of Paris Museum - General Leclerc Museum - Jean Moulin Museum in Paris. If you haven't visited, it is excellent. https://www.museeliberation-leclerc-moulin.paris.fr/en
The Musée de l'Armée (again Paris) has 3 areas that may be of interest if you haven't previously visited - Museum of the order of the Liberation (resistance fighters), world wars 20th century, and the de Gaulle rooms. Lots of video clips with English subtitles - his entire life, but you could focus on his WWII London broadcasts and liberation days. https://www.musee-armee.fr/en/your-visit/museum-spaces.html
There's a good, relatively new museum about the civilian experience during the war--including the Resistance--in the town of Falaise. Falaise has bus service from Caen, and Caen is a very quick train ride from Bayeux, if that's where you're staying. The museum was fully English-accessible at the time of my visit in 2017.
The Falaise Memorial--Civilians in the War: https://www.falaise-suissenormande.com/en/explorer/une-autre-bataille-de-normandie/le-memorial-de-falaise/
In Sainte Marie du Mont (close to Utah Beach), the American headquarters were housed in the same building as the German headquarters during their occupation. At one time, it was a private "Occupation Museum" that no longer exists. The building is privately owned, and is designated as a national monument.
German soldiers painted murals on the interior walls of their headquarters, which I found very interesting. If you hire a guide or take a tour that covers SMdM, maybe they could somehow get you access to the murals, considering the historical status of the property, or at least point out the building.
The museum mentioned by acraven sounds like a good bet. Several Overlord tours spend time in Sainte Marie du Mont.
The Falaise memorial is good and worth a stop if it's open during your trip. It closes seasonally, so check its website before you finalize your plans.
Possibly the best resistance museum I've seen is the one in Lyon. It was something of a center for resistance activity.
I recently visited the museum on Mont Faron outside Toulon dedicated to Operation Dragoon, the Allied invasion of France's south coast. It's quite good and spends a fair amount of time on the resistance; but it's a different focus: south instead of north. If you can, take the téléphérique to get there. The drive up is not for the faint-hearted, with a very narrow windy road with cliffs off one side or the other and generally no guard rails or even a shoulder on the road.
The Utah Beach Museum—my favorite museum in the area—has wonderful information and videos of and about the local French civilians during occupation and during the battle of Normandy. It is very well done, as is the rest of the museum. When you walk in, the first exhibit is "The Cotentin under the Occupation." In addition to the displays, there are several interviews of the local occupants which are included on the for sale DVD.
While you mention the German Cemetery at La Cambre, keep in mind there are multiple German and UK Cemeteries—not just the big ones listed in guide books and right near the motorway. The most contemplative German Museum to me was the one in Orglandes. It is not right off the highway, but is well worth the short drive. The previously mentioned Falaise Museum is also well worth a visit.
Thank you all for the wealth of information. This is going to help as I begin to finalize my plan.
Best,
RF
