Normandy itinerary advice

Amy, I think this is very feasible a long as you and yours can handle driving right off the plane. and assuming you are okay with just one day in Paris.

The logical order would be Rouen, Honfleur, Bayeux (with Caen as a daytrip), MSM, then on to the Loire, but you might be tempted to go straight to Honfleur to de-jetlag. You could double back to Rouen, leave it for another trip, or visit as a day trip from Paris.

Adam,

Many thanks. May I ask why you suggest de-jetlagging in Honfleur? Someone else warned us not to drive too much the first day, suggesting we overnight in Le Petit Andelys (north of Giverny) first. But the distances to/between all of these places don't seem that far. I would like two days in Paris so am thinking of saving Loire for another trip.

Thanks again,
Amy

Amy, I don't want to tell you to plan any driving the first day. That's up to you.

You probably know how well you handle jet lag. If it works for you, I think Honfleur would make an appealing first-night, but don't push it. Your plan sounds nice too, and it seems to me that you are not in any rush.

I found it a long drive between Bayeux and MSM. You can't use the raw Google Maps estimate. (I am one of the few posters here who does not think it is necessary to sleep on MSM!) I'd also observe that October is not an ideal time for public and chateaux gardens, of which there are many. Much of our driving was not scenic. You have to go on narrow local roads at 25 MPH to have a scenic drive. Some are as narrow as rural England. Is October too late for wine/cider harvest? (I don't know.)

I'd also point out that Amboise is east of Tours. You might settle for the lesser chateaux to the west of Tours, and return the car at the St. Pierre des Corps TGV station. You didn't say if you have been to Paris before. 2 nights is very short there.

Other locations to consider (not meant as "must see") St. Malo, Vitré (a less touristy alternative to Dinan), Fontevraud Abbey, Paimpol steam train (if still running in October).

Edit: Added "cider"

Hi Amy - last minute isn't a bad thing! My sister and I are also in Paris and Normandy in first half of October. Do keep in mind that 2 nights in Paris really equates to probably one day, depending on arrival/departure. If you've not been to Normandy before and are planning to see D-Day sites, I'd recommend: train Paris to Caen, pick up car there; then drive to Bayeux and spend 3 nights, 1 night in MSM or Honfleur (personally I prefer Honfleur, or even Rouen over MSM), 2 nights in Loire, and 3 nights in Paris. You don't say if you've been to these spots before, but regardless, I'm of the opinion that less is always more when it comes to a travel itinerary - I've never, ever heard anyone say upon return: Darn, I wish we'd squeezed in more stops/places. But I have heard many say they regretted jamming in too much/were exhausted/and never felt like they could relax.
Whatever you choose, you'll have a wonderful trip - hope we get good weather!

I agree it's not wise to drive the first day.

In Normandy, I've only visited the D-Day beaches around Vierville-sur-Mer (Hotel Logis du Casino recommended) and the American Cemetery, both very well worth it.

In the Loire Valley, well, I could happily spend a month going from one end of the region to the other and probably still not see everything that interests me, but that's just me. The distances are significant and it's easy to take a wrong turn, using up more of your time.

I can recommend Hotel Biencourt in Azay-le-Rideau and found Azay-le-Rideau to be a great location: it has its own chateau and is near both Chinon and Villandry. A day trip to Chenonceaux including river boat trip was easy to manage. However, if you are most keen to see the chateaux at the eastern end, nearer to Paris (Chenonceaux, Chambord, Cheverny, Blois etc.) then Amboise would be a better home base.

Navigation advice: driving between Normandy and the Loire Valley, you go through Le Mans, where the A11 and A28 highway numbers merge for a time. It's easy to get panicked thinking you're heading the wrong direction. Just follow the "direction" signs: if you're heading north to Normandy, it's direction Rouen. If you're heading south to the Loire, it's direction Bordeaux. The "direction" destinations are the end points of the highways, similar to the "direction" endpoints in the Paris Metro.

Also, if you go through Tours, there are tourism info signposts indicating or implying that you should get off the highway while you're still in the city. Don't. It will put you on a slow, unscenic surface street for miles. Stay on the A10 until you're well clear of the city.

We stayed in Bayeux when in Normany, but our focus was D-Day locations. We highly recommend including the German Cemetery at La Cambe on your D-Day stops. From there we drove to Amboise and stayed there two nights, visiting Chambered, Chenonceau, Cheverny, and Amboise chateaux. Absolutely loved it. Amboise is a great place to stay and explore. Of course you could spend more time anywhere, but a couple nights in Normandy and the Loire Valley is good; consider that you might return and see other things at a later date.

We picked up our car at CDG after an overnight flight. We had done this before and felt comfortable with driving that day. You will read many warnings here about how dangerous this is, but you know your reaction to jet lag best and can make your own decision.
We drove from CDG to Giverny (after a coffee and rest room break along the way), arrived right after it opened and spent a little over an hour there, made a lunch and coffee stop a little further down the road, and ended in Bayeux where we spend three nights in a small apartment we booked on VRBO. We did one day touring the D Day sites, drove to Honfleur one day (very easy day trip), visited the Bayeux tapestry that afternoon, turned in the car and took the train from Bayeux back to Paris the next day where we met up with the RS My Way France tour. As much as I loved "the rest" I could easily have spent another two or three days in Normandy.
Is this your first trip to France? If so, slow down and spend more time in a couple of regions instead of trying to do too much. Lots and lots to see in Normandy, don't short change it. Also very easy to drive in that region. Ditch the car before going back to Paris. If you've already seen Paris and don't want to spend much time there on this trip, then I'd home base in another central area in the Loire and don't switch accommodations every day or two. That is exhausting and you lose so much time arriving, getting acclimated, and departing. Make those driving day trips part of the adventure, it's so beautiful and so much to see!

Maybe someone can give an opinion on Honfleur in October. We did a day trip there in late June and it was just mobbed. Lots of shoulder to shoulder people souvenir shopping. I think I would have loved it very early or very late in the day, when everyone else had left. The purpose of our going there was primarily the Satie House and Museum so we pretty much just did that, popped into the Boudin Museum, had lunch, and left.

I don't know about the weather in October but I wouldn't be surprised by several rainy days.

It looks like you are planning 1-nite stays in most places. I find this a tiring process, and if you haven't traveled like this already and know you're ok with it I would suggest not doing it on a trip abroad. I would also change the itinerary a bit. Start with 2 nites in Paris, so that no matter how delayed your flight is you are just a taxi or RER ride away from getting to your hotel and then out-and-about. 2 nites also lets you get over some jetlag. Then take the train to Rouen and spend a nite there, pick up a car the next morning and start driving. Spend 2 nites in places and use them as a base (although if you go to MSM one nite is enough). Leave out the Loire this trip, plenty to see in Brittany and Normandy.

The coverage in the RS book is skimpy (although his MSM advice is spot on; arrive late in the day). The Rough Guide is better, and the Green Michelin guides list just about any town worth visiting and also have some suggested driving routes. Also I suggest buying a GPS and bringing it; over a few years of trips it will be cheaper than renting every time, and you'll be able to practice with it before leaving on your trip.

I would also concur that if you drive to MSM, you could spend at least 1 or 2 nights at the "entrance" of the neighbouring Brittany to have a look (of course a whole week or more would be great to discover Bretagne further, in case you plan a future trip to France).
As others told, you can consider Saint Malo and Vitré, but also Fougères, towns like Cancale, Dol or Combourg, or a city like Rennes (depending on the kind of places you want to stop).

I think the places you are visiting are good spots for Normandie. Remember, there's a good chance the coast will be rainy in October. If it's not a problem for you, great. If you can't picture yourself enjoying a lot of rain, consider going at another time of year. You may have great weather but I'd bet the chance of rain is as good as not on any given October day.

If I had to make one change, It would be Etretat for Caen (unless the forecast is bad, then you're better off in a city). Etretat is a little drive above Le Havre but the cliffs are spectacular.

We all have different tastes. I love the sea, pre 16th century history/architecture, eating/drinking local fare and experiencing local culture as free from crowds of tourists as possible. I'll drive through Normadie in September but won't focus at all on WWII sights. My must sees are the Bayeux tapestry and MSM (not staying a night either but plan to visit in the afternoon and again after dark).

Please remind me how to see MSM the best way without staying out on the island? I've heard so many conflicting opinions. I need to make this decision firm soon. Thanks!

We stayed at Relais du Roy in the area just across the causeway from MSM, with shuttle service right outside the hotel. Walked to the island, took the bus back and then shuttled out to see it at night. Upside was that we could drive right up to the hotel, no bag problem.

For MSM, if you don't want to stay right on the "island", you can take a room in one of the hotels close to the light bridge, near the parking lots (thus you can easily go to the Mont when you want, by foot or with shuttle). Another option is to to stay in a town not far away, for example around Avranches and Pontorson, or in Saint Malo / Cancale / Fougères / Combourg, if you want to take the opportunity to see a liitle bit of Bretagne.