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Normandy: Home base other than Bayeux?

We want to send several nights in Normandy and are looking for a home base. Comments on Bayeux usually focus on (a) the Tapestry--which will be closed when we arrive in September; and (b) proximity to D-Day sites--which we'll want to visit for a day but aren't our main point of interest. We're looking for a cozy town that would be pleasant to "live" in, with good restaurants and shops that we can walk to. We'll have a rental car, so a somewhat central location would be good for day trips (such as Mont-Saint-Michel & other coastal towns). Any ideas?

Posted by
1725 posts

We really enjoyed Arromanches for a three night home base. Small town, right on the water, great museum explaining how this town became a major port for the invasion.

Posted by
1369 posts

Bayeux is an absolutely charming town Tapestry or not! Cozy, walkable, architectural interest, shops, restaurants, beautiful cathedral. And a great jumping off point for day trips everywhere else. We loved it. On our day of arrival (we stayed in apartment) I was walking around city center and doing a little shopping as my husband wasn't feeling well and stayed back. The shopkeepers were so friendly. The next morning we were out and about before shops opened but shopkeepers were kind of mingling with their morning coffee. I received many friendly bonjours from those who met me the day before. My husband asked me how I knew so many people! I love Bayeux. Not what you asked, but wanted to share! Normandy is just a wonderful part of France, no matter where you may end up staying. Enjoy!

Posted by
486 posts

Granville, hands down. It's big enough to have some decent restaurants, lots of interesting shops, and it's on the coast for beach walks.

It's close to Mont Saint-Michel and the American cemetery at Saint-James. That's where I would pick. It's not central -- it's on the edge, as coastal towns often are.

Another choice would be Avranches, which is close by. Either would work. Both would get you away from the D-Day centric tourism other folks have suggested while still being within an easy drive to many of the attractions the area offers.

If you want to go further inland and situate yourself in an artistic village with rich history dating back to the crusades but that focuses most especially on metalworking, consider Villedieu-les-Poêles. There's a bell foundry there that -- aside from such modern conveniences as electrical tools and lights, and personal protective gear -- looks and operates not so differently than it did over a century ago. Several bells from Notre-Dame-de-Paris were either made or renovated there. Tours are available in English. Mauvial 1830 pots and pans are made in Villedieu as well, and I believe the factory offers tours.

The three towns -- Granville, Avranches, and Villedieu-les-Poêles -- form nearly an equilateral triangle at the southwest base of the Cotentin Peninsula.

Posted by
486 posts

I should add that Coutances or the nearby town of Agon-Coutainville both have a lot of what you're asking for. Coutances is inland and bigger, but has a nice central business district, some very good restaurants, and a beautiful city park next to a free museum. It's less than hour's drive to Omaha Beach and Utah Beach, and an hour to Mont Saint Michel. The nearby (~30 min) and larger city of Saint-Lô was nearly entirely destroyed during the war. Accordingly, it's not quaint looking, but it has a museum with history exhibits, art, technology, and a room with stunning 16th-century tapestries depicting country life at the time.

Agon-Coutainville is smaller but on the coast, so it offers pleasant beach walks (if the weather accommodates) as well as a few good restaurants and pleasant ambiance.

Posted by
2147 posts

blattner,
Re Villedieu-les-Poeles, aside from the foundry and bell history, it is known for lace-making as well. We stayed there overnight after Bayeux and went to Mont St Michel early the next morning. The drive was only about 45-50 minutes. And Avranches is on the way between the two if you want to be closer to MSM.
Try some salt-marsh lamb while in the area. Yummy!

Posted by
402 posts

I'll throw Honfleur into the mix. Small, picturesque harbour town. 30 miles drive from Bayeux and beaches. Le Havre and Fecamp/Etretat in other direction. Caen and Rouen inland.

Posted by
88 posts

I'll recommend Carentan. It's quite small, which I value, and there are numerous villages nearby each with its own charm and offerings. We stayed at the Hotel le Vauban, on the town square, which was modest, inexpensive and family-run. Within easy day trip distance to Utah and Omaha beaches and Pointe du Hoc, as well as numerous privately run small WWII museums. Have fun!

Posted by
1379 posts

As mentioned, Bayeux does feel "cozy." While I almost always stay in Sainte-Mère-Église, and it is certainly "cozy," there are only a few places to go to eat, and the town celebrates D-day more than most any town in Normandy. If that wasn't my interest (it is), and I wanted "good restaurants and shops" I could walk to, I would stay in Bayeux again. Unfortunately, no place is central to Mont Saint-Michel other than that immediate area itself. It is on the far western edge of Normandy—abutting Brittany. Yes you can drive there from Bayeux, but it is not a short hop. Much of the coast of Normandy is quite close to Bayeux however.

Posted by
67 posts

How many nights? We stayed in Bayeux recently for 3 nights and it was great, but we did not go to MSM. If we had more time we likely would have moved on to a second base out that way.

Posted by
68 posts

Thanks, everyone, for these replies. I only regret that I won't be able to spend time in all these wonderful places! Wherever we end up staying, we'll have lots of other places to visit.

Posted by
684 posts

Of the places I have been in Normandy I would most highly recommend Honfleur. That said, I have not been to Bayeux but Bayeux is definitely where I would stay if I were to find myself in Normandy again. If you are also interested in Brittany I very highly recommend Dinan, which is just barely across the border from Normandy. I would stay down by the river, technically across the ancient and beautiful bridge from Dinan. Charming, beautiful, peaceful and interesting.