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Normandy Brittany Loire in June and July 2024

I just returned from a great 2 week solo trip to Normandy, Brittany and Loire. I read Rick Steve's guide books listened to his podcasts and read the forum extensively. I spent hours planning my trip, reading books, interviews and movies. Overall wonderful trip with one disappointing city for a solo traveler and one horrendously horrible full day guided WWII tour. Can I make some suggestions: Rent a car, drive 2-3 hours a day max with a big jump of 4.5 hours if needed, travel "Rick Steves light". Stay in B&Bs or family run hotels with a restaurant. In Bayeaux the Rick Steves recommended (fantastic) restaurant Le Quarante-Neuf : Hôtel et Restaurant also has very nice rooms with morning breakfast.

The garden of Giverny was nice for the first 20-minutes of the day. I loved the walk along the Etretat cliffs, and the Jardins d'Etretat was a shady retreat after. I did not enjoy Honfleur as a solo traveler but just south, Château de Boutemont was one of my favorite gardens.

Among the Normandy Beaches, the Canadian Cemetery, British war memorial with it special Standing With Giants 80th anniversary statues, and the (other) American Cemetery near Saint James (in Normandy, I thought I crossed into Brittany but I did not)) were very impactful. The Overlord Band of Brothers Tour was so awful, go with any other Tour company. The guide was terrible, we didn't hear of Band of brothers until 6.5 hours into the 8 hour tour which was cut short and went only to two Band of Brother sites with no personal stories of the men. Such a waste of a day and money. Do it on your own, or by private tour guide for max 1/2 day. The Bayeux Tapestry exhibit was very well done!

Walk the entire way around Mont St Michel on the sand, the experience of the place is better than the abbey. Saint-Malo (where people really do wear blue and white striped shirts) and the Bergamote restaurant for a galette and desert are musts. Discovering the locations of the book/movie "All The Light We Cannot See" was fun.

Brittany was all about spectacular coastal walks, morning markets (I loved the Matignon Wed market), tidal islands and ferries to other small islands. In northern Brittany I discovered the welcoming Chambres d'hôtes des hirondelles (Swallows' Guest Rooms in Beaussais sur Mer) which was nearby to coastal viewpoints/walks Pointe du Chevet, Fort la Latte (Château de La Roche Goyon), Cap Fréhel, Chapelle Saint-Michel, Cap d’Erguy, and a little further northwest, île de Bréhat were all so beautiful.

In southern Brittany, Belle Île with its breathtaking views and the tiny Eden du Voyageur Garden, plus the Alignements de Carnac were memorable. Not an American accent was heard for 9 days. In the Loire, as recommended by Rick Steves, Château de Chenonceau was so fun, particularly the Ferme garden.

I did all this solo. Every B&B and restaurant were so kind to me. And no, I am not fluent in French but I have driven in France a lot - it’s all about knowing the signs and the lines and the rules of the road. Forty-five minutes from CDG airport was a real find of a B&B, Le Manoir du Cerf, a perfect ending to a great vacation. I am a 60-yr old solo traveler encouraging you to do it on your own.

Posted by
82 posts

It sounds like you did your homework. Thanks for coming back with this trip report, which I hope will encourage other francophiles to plan their own trips.

Driving lets you see much more of France. You can plot a route from one of the Plus Beaux Villages to a chateau to a garden to a Roman site to a great view, or string together towns and villages with good restaurants--whatever you want. Also, you can make a spur-of-the-moment detour if you see something that intrigues you.

It's nice to see a plug for B&Bs. We nearly always stay in B&Bs and appreciate having conversations at breakfast with the hosts and their other visitors, as well as getting the hosts' advice on the area.

Posted by
12313 posts

Glad you had a good visit. I did a similar solo circle in September 2016 and loved the area. My biggest regret was missing a pardon in Brittany because it wasn't summer.

Posted by
25 posts

I agree with Crumbs, I enjoy the freedom. I did intentionally go to a Beaux Village, I visited Rochefort-en-Terre en route from Brittany to the Loire valley. I stumbled upon a Sunday morning Antique Market in the village. I also spontaneously exited the Peage (freeway) when I noticed a brown historical sign pointing the way to an American Cemetery, in Brittany. I had never heard mention of it and it was so very well done. You also mentioned “host’s advice”, I was guided to see some of my favorite sites through B&B Host suggestions. One host even drove me into town one day. That last B&B, west of CDG airport, saved me from spending a night in an airport chain hotel.

And Travel Boss, being in Brittany felt like a true vacation, not just a to-do list. The natural beauty was spectacular. Hopefully you will make it there. I hesitated to go to France in summer, but getting to visit un-touristy Brittany was well worth it.

My next solo trip: another Fall trip to Scotland, this time to Argyll & Bute, Perth & Kinross, and Aberdeenshire for more nature, ferries, scenic flights, animals, castles, beaches, stone circles and beautiful walks. And more B&Bs.

Posted by
14732 posts

Thanks so much for your trip report! Your trip sounds awesome and fit what I imagine your travel style perfectly! I'm not one for driving in Europe but it sounds like it worked well for you.

I'm so sorry you had a disappointing time with Overlord as many here on the forum have had good experiences. I've toured with Dale Booth who is wonderful and yes, does stories.

I assume you are going to drive in Scotland so you might want to look up a TripReport by forum member Mardee on her Scottish driving adventure last year. I don't remember if she went to the same places you are planning to go. I did do a cursory search and didn't find it right away.

Posted by
25 posts

Yes, solo driving trip to Scotland.

Thank you Pam, I found the trip report you are speaking of by Mardee: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/solo-in-scotland-trains-cars-and-ferries-and-a-wee-dram-or-two

Oh my goodness, she did so much in one trip. On this trip, I am going to the Isle of Arran, Isle of Mull, Iona and Staffa (which she mentions). Plus Tiree and Col, and also the areas of Perthshire and Aberdeenshire in Sept 2024. In 2023, I did the Highlands, Inverness, Ullapool, Skye, Outer Hebrides (Lewis & Harris). In 2018 I did the Orkneys Islands (highly recommend!).

Thank you for referring me to Mardee’s extensive post.

Posted by
14732 posts

Yes! That is the one! Sorry I didn't search more closely for you (currently defrosting the freezer so running back and forth to the garage, yuck....).

I had asked about hotels and sights in/around Aberdeen for last August as I was stopping there on the way up to Orkney and then on the way back from Shetland. The thread does wander around a bit and there was some input on things to see outside Aberdeen. I stayed 2 nights on the way up and just walked around doing the museum and gardens. On the way back I stayed at an airport hotel and literally just was pooped out from 2 weeks of touring.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/aberdeen-advice-hotels-and-sights

I loved Orkney and Shetland so much I am going back in July of 2025 although I am taking a small van tour with the same company I used August 2023 AND coincidentally also booked for a small van tour of the Loire, Brittany and Normandie in October 2024, hahaha. We seem to like the same areas!

Posted by
302 posts

"...the (other) American Cemetery near Saint James (in Brittany) were very impactful."

Saint James, and its nearby cemetery, are in Normandie, not Bretagne. There are two WWII American cemeteries in Normandie: a smaller one near Saint James (in Manche) and a larger one near Colleville-sur-Mer (in Calvados).

And -- to provide a counter argument to the comment above about Dale Booth -- he led a tour of Pointe du Hoc on a Rick Steves tour I took before moving to France to live, and he was terrible. Superficial platitudes abounded and very little insight was provided. I was far from a D-Day expert when I took that tour and I learned virtually nothing from him. I couldn't recommend him in good conscience. Perhaps he was having an off day; perhaps not. But I would certainly not spend good money on one of his tours.

Posted by
25 posts

"I was far from a D-Day expert when I took that tour and I learned virtually nothing..."

Oh, that made me laugh. That's how I felt about the terrible Overlord Tour. I didn't learn a thing, no interesting personal stories, only dates and names and nothing about experiences of the locals or soldiers as we stood there on the soil. It was a wasted miserable day with a bad tour guide.

And you are so correct, the second American cemetery, the smaller one near Saint James (in Manche) is just inside the lower border of Normandy. I thought I had crossed into Brittany when I happened upon it. I felt it was far more powerful than the bigger more visited one in Colleville-sur-Mer. Thanks for the correction.

Posted by
82 posts

karenrake, I looked up the Manoir du Cerf. which looks great. You may have solved out perennial problem of wanting to be close-ish to CDG the day of our flight, but not wanting to leave the quiet French countryside a minute before we have to. Once we approach the francilienne on our way to CDG, the trip is over for us.

Posted by
25 posts

I would definitely suggest skirting around the traffic of Les Mureaux to get there. But Le Manoir du Cerf was so welcoming and so French and impeccably clean and such a good nights sleep, which I appreciated before the long flight home. Very easy drive to CDG. You can even travel a little further on the N104 and approach CDG from the East side. So easy. I hope you have a great trip!

Posted by
6 posts

Today I stumbled across the Karen R thread regarding Normandy, etc. Very fortunate for me!! I am preparing for a solo trip to Normandy late September/early October and have debated on a guided D-Day tour. I too am driving; it has been a long time since I have driven anywhere in Europe and I can’t say I’m excited about that. Part of the joy of traveling to Europe is to be able to go everywhere conveniently by train, but for visiting Normandy and more, that wasn’t going to work.

I am staying on Omaha Beach for several days and then Bayeux two nights before traveling on. I really can’t decide now on a guided tour. I think I’ll keep researching online.

Karen, I am glad you were well-treated as a solo woman traveler in France. Seems like I’ve read more complaints recently from travelers to France, although some people will complain about anything/everything. I stumble through with my (long-ago and not very good) college French & a RS French phrase book and have always been treated well. I haven’t been in France since before the pandemic so wondered if attitudes had changed significantly.

Thanks for the information and sharing your trip. I will turn 70 on this journey and looking forward to celebrating there.