Nice

Last May, I stayed three nights close to the train station in Nice. It wasn't the most convenient area for enjoying Nice, but I was doing some day trips plus also arriving/departing Nice by trains so it made sense to me. But the most desirable area is the old town area, closer to the beach - naturally, also more expensive. The old town area is kind of charming but also very touristy - most of Nice is. But there are lots of shops and restaurant options in the area. There is a tram between the area where I stayed and the old town - otherwise it was about a 20 minute walk each way.

I did day trips to Cannes, Antibes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco. I took the train to Cannes and Antibes one day and the bus #100 to Villefranche-sur-Mer and Monaco another (and took the train back; bus #100 is quite scenic, going along the coast). Villefranche-sur-Mer was my favorite of all of them. Antibes was nice too. Cannes was mobbed because the film festival was in full swing so I didn't get a good sense of what it's like otherwise. I didn't care for Monaco at all, actually.

I stayed near the train station, too, which was ideal for me, but I wouldn't recommend it for you. I think Rick suggests the area off the Promenade des Anglais a bit west of the Old Town, commenting that the infrastructure of the hotels there makes for a more reliable experience. (I am paraphrasing very inaccurately, I'm sure, but I think he meant that very old buildings sometimes mean less-reliable elevators, plumbing, etc.)

There is an endless variety of side-trips available from Nice. I didn't go to Monaco myself (which tells you how I prioritized it), but it does have a well-regarded aquarium, a botanical garden, and the Prince's car collection. I suspect it may have more of interest to your children than most other places along the Riviera, whose claims to fame lean heavily toward picturesque architecture, views, art museums and gardens.

Rick has a book focused on southern France that is said to have more complete coverage of that area than his general "France" book (which is what I used). There is so much to do in that area that you really, really need a book like that to help you focus on what will be of greatest interest to your family.

Provencal markets are fun for an hour or so. The Nice tourist office (one branch on plaza right outside the main train station) should have information about those in the immediate area. That office was extremely helpful to me last year. It was able to provide maps of some of the surrounding towns I was headed to.

I don't have children and am not very good at this, but these activities might appeal:

• I'm pretty sure I saw folks biking along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice. I'm sure there are bike rentals in some of the other coastal towns as well. You can probably find that information by Googling. Nice is large enough that there may be bike tours on offer.

• You can walk part or all of the way around several of the nearby peninsulas, watching the Mediterranean as it crashes on the rocks. The path will not always be paved, so you really need lace-up shoes, and you should skip this if anyone is dealing with a sprained ankle (or turn back at the first sign of difficulty). I walked on Cap Ferrat and Cap d'Antibes. I thought the walking was a bit messier on Cap d'Antibes. Maps from the T.O. in Nice.

• Villefranche-sur-Mer has a citadel with several small museums inside, at least some of which were free. The kids might enjoy seeing the citadel itself even if the museums don't appeal, and it won't take the adults long to visit the museums.

If you're interested in art museums or gardens, post again for suggestions. Or just throw a dart at a map.

What time of year is your trip? If you're thinking "beach", you'll need to do some research. Many European beaches are uncomfortably rocky rather than sandy. And I think a lot of the beaches along the Riviera may be private.

We were 2 couples enjoying France, and I booked a beautiful 2 bedroom Apartment for us all from VRBO on the second floor of a building with ocean views right on the Boulevard des Anglais. It was clean and comfortable, but the price has gone up quite a bit. There are numerous other properties in that area, with great views and amenities, for $200 euro or less. The area is west of the Old Town, but definitely walkable and on a bus route if you wimp out. There are restaurants galore and supermarkets and bars as well. Fun and inexpensive.

Antibes was by far my favorite. It has the nicest beaches, a medieval center with lots of restaurants, a wall, marina, museum and isn't a big city like Nice. It was ideal from my perspective. I stayed in Juan les Pins which is walking distance from Antibes but after visiting Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monaco, Menton, I decided I much preferred Antibes. There is a train station right by the marina, for trips up and down the coast, and quite a few Airbnb choices in the area. I was there September 2017 and Airbnb prices were really reasonable - about 50 euro per night for a studio apartment (I'm sure more if you want an ocean view).

Thanks for all the great advice! Our trip will be this June. I hadn’t read much about Antibes. I’ll check it out!

There is def biking on the Promenade - if you aren't biking, make sure to watch out for them - there is a dedicated bike lane, but between the bikes, the joggers and the people that may be on roller skates and the like, you gotta almost have eyes in the back of your head.

We didn't stay in Nice proper (once in Villefranche sur Mer, and once further away in Villeneuve Loubet - we had a car on that trip). Going to the top of Castle Hill gives beautiful views over the city and we just enjoyed walking the old town. Also visited the Greek Orthodox Church. Side trips - we visited Eze and wandered around Monaco...on another trip we visited St Paul de Vence (that was the car trip) and some of the hill towns around the area.

You'll want to focus on the Old Town (Vieille Ville) , the Carre d'Or (just west of the Old Town, bordered by the Promenade des Anglais, Blvd Gambetta, Blvd Victor Hugo and Blvd Jean Medecin) or the few blocks around Place Massena. Staying close to the train station isn't as convenient as closer to the true center and the Old Town. Some areas of the Old Town can be noisy, but the areas against the Hill tend to have less foot and bar traffic. The Carre d'Or is more likely to have elevators and air conditioning, which are both handy in June (if only to close the windows against noise and mosquitoes). The Old Town is fully pedestrian (plus a street in the Carre d'Or) but the Promenade itself does have constant traffic.

Aside from AirBnB, check apartment listings at HomeAway/VRBO and TripAdvisor/Flipkey/Arbritel or directly at a local management company. Many no longer list on AirBnB, for a variety of reasons.

You can take a train or bus to surrounding towns quite easily, including all the ones mentioned above. The Train de Merveilles and the Chemin de Fer de Provence both depart from Nice and are trains that go to quaint mountain villages. There are a number of hikes/walks along the coast, and some into the hills, accessible from public transport. Boat/ferry excursions are also possible, with departments from the Nice Port.