My husband and I like to spend a few days in Paris on our way to or from other countries in Europe. We like to explore different neighborhoods. This spring I was thinking about around Rue de Martyrs where we went on a food tour a few years ago (after advice from this column!) What do you think?
One suggestion is to read Elaine Sciolino's book: "The Only Street in Paris: Life on the Rue des Martyrs" (https://elainesciolino.com/the-only-street-in-paris). She is the former Paris bureau chief for the New York Times. According to the video, she writes about food.
I have not read that book, but read another one by Sciolino: "Le Seduction: How the French Play the Game of Life". That work explains French culture better than any other book I've read.
The Only Street in Paris: Life on the Rue des Martyrs by Elaine Sciolino is a delightful read if you haven't read it already. In September 2025, my husband and I went to the rue des Martyrs so that I could follow ES's recommendations of shops/sights that she had fallen in love with. She lives on the rue des Martyrs. I had a great time and could see why she loved that area. If you are asking for lodging recommendations there, I wish I could help, but we stayed on Ile St. Louis.
I have both read the book by Elaine Sciolino that others have mentioned, and spent time on the street during two other different visits. The street is very lively, a little too lively I thought for staying on but great for the visits. We liked the place Lino Ventura as a local gathering spot, with a merry-go-round (we had our daughter with us) and as a shady spot during a hot day when staying indoors was uncomfortable. There is great access to Blvd de Clichy (site of Moulin Rouge) and rue Lepic as well as in general the neighborhood of Montmartre--and yet a mere 25 minute walk down to the Seine. Bulot Bulot is a terrific (though small restaurant) for oysters; Cafe Ventura for an apperitif, Cafe Marlette for coffee; plus good boulangeries and patisseries.