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Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

My husband and I will take the one week Paris Tour next month. In doing our research, mostly reading the Rick Steves Paris 2015 guide book, I was surprised not to see any mention of the "Moderne" in the book. My sister, who is a painter, told me about her visit to it and several others in the seventies. It made me wonder why it is not even listed as a venue for seeing art in the guide book. Can anyone tell me why that might be the case? I plan to stop by there to see a special exhibit of Sonia Delaunay's work which goes until February 22nd.

Posted by
15585 posts

Maybe because it is relatively remote. I'm not a fan of modern, so I'd never heard of it. I just looked it up in my Michelin Paris and it gets 2 stars! (3 is the max). Enjoy it!

PS - Rick's books are great for what they include, but they are driven more by his slant and as far as I can determine are not meant to be all-inclusive, like Michelin or Lonely Planet.

Posted by
10196 posts

It's not really remote because it's in the Trocadero, across the river from the Eiffel Tower. However, the collection is not nearly as extensive or spectacular as the National Modern Art Museum in the Pompidou or even the Orangerie. (Pompidou collection begins chronologically where the Orsay collection stops.) Like the Petite Palais, another City of Paris museum, it's a good collection, but not one of the world's greatest as found in the Pompidou and Orsay. It also isn't housed in a converted mansion like the Jaquemart-Andre, which adds to its allure. It's a good museum, free, fast to visit, but not a museum with iconic pieces people come specifically to see. Edit: fast to visit due to size, not offerings.

That said, one of the most interesting exhibits I ever saw in my life was there back in 1978. Enjoy the Delaunay exhibit. Expect large Parisian crowds, so get there early, especially with it closing soon.

Posted by
11294 posts

Just to emphasize Chani's point. Rick's books are NOT meant to include "everything," and they don't even try. They focus on:
1) what Rick thinks is of interest 2) to first time visitors 3) from the US 4) with limited time 5) and with no "special" interests. The further you deviate from that description, the more you will need to supplement his book with other sources. Your example is a good one - your sister is a painter, so she will naturally want to see art museums beyond the "first tier" that he does cover. And it's a good example of another problem shared by all guidebooks - they won't describe temporary exhibits or events.

Rick's style inevitably leads to cries of "The Rick Steves book on City X is garbage because it doesn't include [fill in the name of a sight that doesn't meet the above criteria, but the individual feels is unmissable]." Again, that's misunderstanding what kind of books they are. If you are looking for something more comprehensive (and I always supplement Rick to get more information), try a Michelin guide or a Rough Guide.

Posted by
2460 posts

I put a high priority on museums and love this one dearly -- well worth a full morning imo -- because it is so well curated compared to the Pompidou or the Jaquemart, which are more like trained bears or caged tigers. Immediately nearby are the Guimet, a fashion history gallery, and a couple of private art galleries that are also terrific.

Add the street market on Pres Wilson on Saturday mornings and you've got a full day's worth of activities.
Borrow a skateboard or scooter for the impromptu shredding going on in the rear courts!
Many national embassies/consulates in the neighborhood have offices in old buildings that make for great trespassing.

Posted by
8293 posts

"Many embassies/consulates in the neighbourhood have offices in old buildings that make for great trespassing". Surely you jest! Great trespassing could lead to great nastiness from the security personnel or the gendarmes. Especially now, especially in Paris.

Posted by
2460 posts

Well, Norma, this is Europe through 'the back door', non?

Semi-seriously, though, the neighborhood around the Guimet has plenty of non-obvious yet historically and aesthetically tasty buildings, many full of diplomatic staffers who tend to be pretty cool. Who's to say you're not there on important business?
Come out of the Metro at this end of Kleber and then walk in away from the tower instead of toward it. You'll be glad you did.
(Of course do this only after you've done the streets Champ du Mars -ward -- those are cool too, but everybody figures that out)

Posted by
8293 posts

Avirose, you did use the word "trespassing", which is what I was referring to.

Posted by
2460 posts

Hi Norma,
I was being hyperbolic.
We need more punctuation marks to convey mood and double entendre, etc ...

Posted by
8293 posts

Ca va. Je comprends maintenant. Bonne soirée.