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MSM and Paris Itinerary

Hi all!

I posted before and received some great info for a 9 day itinerary in Nov/Dec. My husband and I are arriving in Paris at 11am on Thurs 11/23 and flying out Sat 12/2 at 3pm. Being my first long term trip in Paris I want to make the most of it. I definitely want to include Versailles. I won't be able to include Giverny as the gardens will be closed. I've also heard many mixed reviews on MSM but wanted to throw it out there again.

So in my original post I asked about including Paris and Normandy (MSM and D-Day beaches). But now just down to MSM.

My idea so far is to spend Thurs the 23-Mon the 27th in Paris. Head out Monday to Bayeux by train. Once there, take a bus? Or rent a car? to MSM. Spend the night ON the Mont. Tour Abbey morning or night? And head back to Paris Tues 28th.

I want to spend as much time in Paris as possible but really want to squeeze in MSM but again- have read so many conflicting views on it- it is a day trip from Paris or it's not possible to do a day trip, it's magically to stay in the Mont or it's overrated. So if all don't mind looking for those opinions again! And if the trip out to MSM I have makes sense. We would prefer to not rent a car if possible but my husband does want to spend the night on the Mont.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!

Posted by
2 posts

I read the same mixed reviews on MSM, but it was always a dream of mine to see it and I just had to go. We stayed in Paris, but wanted to do some day trips outside. We aren't much for tour groups, so we decided to go onn our own. We took the 7:36 TGV to Dol-de-Bretagne, then a bus from the station to MSM. We arrived there at 11:10. The trip didn't feel as long as people made it out to be, and was so much easier than I imagined. We left by bus at 5:30 PM to Rennes to catch the TGV back to Paris. This was plenty of time for us to explore what we wanted. The bus drops you at the tourist center where you pick up the free shuttle that takes you over to MSM. All busses drop off and pick up at the same spot, so you know where to catch the bus to go back.

We took advice from the Rick Steves guidebook and entered by the left entrance [the right is the official and busier one]. This takes you up to the abbey with beautiful views and less populated paths. The abbey was worth touring, and we were able to attend part of the mass that was being held when we got there. Come back down the other way for restaurants and gift shops.

Like I said, this was so much easier to do than I thought it would be. I really stressed over the timing, but everything was great. I think they are switching the TGV to a faster train, so it wouldn't be as long of a trip for you. For us, the timing was perfect and we were ready to get on the bus to go back when the time came. It would be cool to see it at night though. We loved and and were glad we went.

Posted by
24 posts

I would recommend staying the night on MSM. We found it to be a great experience. The abbey takes about 1.5-2 hrs to see. It is also pleasant to wander about in the evening. It is not overrated, just remember there are some touristy types of things. Avoid them and you will have a nice time.

Have a good trip.

Posted by
6113 posts

I went to MSM last week. As I mentioned on another post a few days ago on this forum, it was the most disappointing point in my 3.5 week trip. Far too busy and tourist tacky and this was midweek at a time before the mass French holiday exodus started. My husband went 25 or so years ago when it was accessed by the causeway, not a concrete bridge, so it has lost its magical feel, he said. As a result of the bridge, there are now too many people there. Part of the Mont is covered in scaffolding.

The battlefields look to be more interesting and I am hoping to go back in September to see these.

Nearby St Malo and Dinard were much more interesting experiences than MSM.

It's a personal thing, but having recently been and knowing what it is like, there is no way I would travel all the way from Paris for this. Don't forget that daylight hours will be significantly reduced in late November/December.

If you want a tacky snow globe or plastic fridge magnet, then MSM is for you.

Posted by
4132 posts

If you are going, spending the night is the way to go.

The rail/bus connections are better via Brittany versus Normandy. You probably won't need to rent a car, but check the schedules.

Posted by
23 posts

Hi all! I wanted to post and thank everyone for their replies! Due to technical or most probably user error ;-D I posted this topic twice so my apologies! I do appreciate the thoughtful and candid responses!

joyeuse: Thank you for the details on how to get there! Scheduling and timing causes me a great deal of concern- as why I am planning so thoroughly now even though not traveling until the end of Nov! Some feedback I've read makes the trip sound so daunting but reassuring to know it can be done in a short amount of time. And that it was worth it from your perspective. I may be in the same camp- I think I've just wanted to go for so long I may have to just go and take a look for myself to judge. . .

ampsj: Since you have stayed on the Mont, any hotel recommendations?

Jennifer- Deja vu! Ha- thank you for posting twice. It is helpful to know that this may not be all it's cracked up to be. Adds another layer to consider. I appreciate your honesty!

Adam: Thank you for your feedback! If you stayed any place you would recommend happy to hear about it!

Posted by
11507 posts

If you go in november or december I strongly suggest staying on the mont.. its dark out by 4.30 almost.. so you dont get much time to enjoy it as a daytrip.. and it may be cool and rainy.. the crowds of season ( april thru October ) will not be nearly the same..

I first visited the mont in 1972, then 1985, and last visit was 2015. Yes.. its a different beast now.. but just as magical to me when I think about the history. I love that I am walking on passageways that others walked about on hundreds of years ago.

I have never spent the night on MSm but the thought of wandering the streets and finding its little secluded parts ( there are some) alone at night sounds amazing.

The tourist shops ARE tacky.. but remember.. they have been there for a long long time.. even in days of pilgramage the narrow streets were lined with shops( they just didnt sell quite the same stuff)

Posted by
23 posts

Hi Pat- Thanks for your advice! I became incredibly indecisive after trying to consider the timing and weather...But I am fascinated about the history as well. I'm ok with tacky shops- but I love your perspective on it! Same shops, different stuff! I bet it was always a draw for people!

Also for open comment: Any feedback on the tide situation? I looked at the tide calendar and it seems the tide will not be in when we plan to be there. Will that impact the visit? Or would it be just as 'magical?'

Thanks!

Posted by
686 posts

We went in November the year before last. Many of the large crowds are gone by that time, I believe, as mentioned above. Staying the night further eliminates the day trippers. When the tide does go out, you'll see a lot of marsh land and it's no longer an island, so the magic is diminished a bit. I can understand going in July could be a nightmare, due to its popularity.

Posted by
12172 posts

If your plan stays the same, I'd certainly rent a car. Train somewhere close to Bayeux (Bayeux or Caen) then return it there and train back to Paris. It's about a 1 1/2 hour drive from Bayeux. A bus would work but then you are on their schedule. A car gives you more flexibility to come and go on yours.

I love pre-1500 history, so really loved both the Tapestry in Bayeux and MSM. I was there mid September and loved it. It was somewhat crowded but I left the main street right away, walked up the ramparts to the abbey, then came back down the main street. I got there mid afternoon (after seeing the Tapestry in Bayeux) so, by the time I was coming back down, the abbey was closing and much of the crowds had left (still not lonely at all). I didn't take a guided tour of the mudflats at low tide but it looked interesting. The people coming back in with mud up to their shins seemed to have had a fun time. When the tide is out, the entire bay is a mudflat. When the tide is in, the island looks like an island. The interesting thing is the extreme on both ends. When the tide is really high, it covers part of the road to the island for about an hour. I had wanted to try an omelette there but the price ranges from 35 to 50 euro each - I didn't want one that badly and decided to go for reasonably priced oysters in Cancale.