Montmartre

The artists leave when the tourists leave late evening.
Go when the tourists and the aggressive touts, hustlers, pickpockets, etc. that tourists attract are not there : both at 8am or 9pm. You want to see the view over Paris at day and at night fall. Don't bother going between 11 am and 8pm. I have been to Paris over 10 times from 2002 to 2019. The crowd and all the aggressive street vendors on Montmartre is no fun today.

There's a lot to Montmartre, not just the touristy Artist's square and (stunningly gorgeous) Sacre Couer. I've never done more than walk through the Artist's square area a few times, but must admit that the food at the outdoor tables looked serviceably edible, and diners happy enough. And there are some pretty interesting shops among the bric a brac.

Still, I'd walk down the hill back toward Pigalle to eat. Half way down or lower.

The caricature artists will be there any time you go except for early morning.

'Artists' is a stretch. This is carny level stuff. And never commission a portrait unless you see the 'artist' complete one start to finish that impresses you.. All that stuff hanging from the easel is quite likely not even drawn by the 'artist' sitting there. I had an acquaintance who had a drawing made of his son as a gift for his wife at a hefty price; his wife's comment 'whose kid is that.' The kid in question was quite distinctive looking; the drawing not so much. It is also an excellent place to get pickpocketed, but then any crowded place where tourists gather or public transport is also -- so be pickpocket proof.

Yeah, carnival caricaturist is the right description, and clearly a scam opportunity. I didn't want to rain on OP's parade, but since we popped that bubble buyer beware.

Also so many bracelet scam (or really aggressive begging) guys up there. Don't let anyone tie a bracelet on you. Also give art displayed on the ground wide berth - they'll push it under your feet as you pass and then insist that you pay some hugely inflated price for the poster that you tread on.

It's a bit of a circus on top of Montmarte. I do like the illegal ice cold beer vendors though - sealed bottle of Heineken 2 or 3 euros, just don't wave it around in front of the police :)

We are spending our last two days in Montmartre. I found this article helpful to get off the beaten path as we've seen the major sights, already: https://www.dreameratheart.org/top-things-to-do-in-montmartre-paris-but-dont-forget/
We'll mainly visit the vineyard, cemeteries, Le Passe-Muraille and the mur je t'aime and try to avoid the heavily-trafficked areas. The stairs leading up to Sacre Coeur are a favorite of mine especially the one with the lanterns. I'll have to do my climb just to say I did while trying to catch my breath.
Montmartre is a lively area and full of history. Just watch your belongings in crowded areas and beware some of the scams that are noted here. Enjoy Montmartre!

Our favorite walk -- the one we take friends on, is to get off at Lamarck Caulaincourt -- go up to Caulaincourt (by the stairs above the metro or you can walk to the right and up a gradual sidewalk slop to Caulaincourt. Turn right and walk up a bit and cross the street at Avenue Junot which slowly inclines up the hill towards Sacre Couer. Near the top is the statue of the man walking through the wall for photo op. At this point several choices. 1. continue ahead and come out at the execrable Place du Tertre tourist horror and then through to SC. 2. Turn down the hill to the vineyard and the Lapin Agile and turn right and walk to the back of Sacre Coeur and then walk along the church to go in, climb the tower or the terrace overlooking Paris. 3. walk across the street from the 'man/wall' and into the playground and walk back through the playground which takes you on a pretty pedestrian path through housing (going to the right) and then you come out around the vineyard and proceed to the basilica. Pretty walk, not too strenuous. There is also a park behind the church with playgrounds where we have had lunch and watched kids float their balls over the fountain waterfall over and over.

This is similar to janettravels44's favorite walk; except that you walk along Rue de l’Abreuvoir.

https://goo.gl/maps/RCGcq4eSXhXMfZkq5

I would add to take a walking tour of Montmartre.
I did one a few years ago with Paris Walks, and learned much that I had never known in previous visits to Paris.
They will take you on a number of the back streets and are very knowledgeable.

My sister and I had a tour of Montmarte with Paris Walks also. I highly recommend them; they’re interesting, knowledgeable and speak English. 🙂