Mont St Michel

I thought it was magical….we stayed on the island and even walked back to the gate that night to get pictures of it all lit up…..the tourists all left by 4 and we had it all to ourselves…..it was a bucket list item for us and so glad we have that memory!…also seasoned 70+ travelers……

Late in the day is preferred, but come late & stay over 1 night is even better. Yes, everything is uphill & some sections of the road up were a little rough, but I was 6 months post op for a new knee and I did ok, just slow. Do try to go all the way up to the Abbey first thing in the morning if you stay over. I am even older than you, but was about your age when I went.

I've lived in France for over a decade, have visited many medieval towns and seen some sights I thought only existed in storybooks. I even lived in a small medieval town for nearly four years, mere steps from a basilica built in the 1100s.

I now live in Normandie, and I can assure you Mont-Saint-Michel is worth your time. Yes, there are steps. Yes, there are "ticky tacky" tourist shops just as you enter. And yes, it's filled with tourists, at least for part of each day. But it's one of those places in the world that stands alone. It's a singular experience, if you let yourself experience it.

During the hundred years war, it was one of the few places in northern France not occupied by the British. Most harbors in Normandie face north, to facilitate trade with Britain. Granville, the largest city in Normandie near Mont-Saint-Michel, has a harbor facing south. That's because it was built by the British to lay siege and to occupy Mont-Saint-Michel.

They tried twice.

Unsuccessfully.

Mont-Saint-Michel was never occupied by the British. It stayed as it was. And if you choose, you can see it as it is.

It's worth a visit, in my opinion.

We were told by our RS guide, that MSM, being one of the major Christian pilgrimage sights in the world since the 12th century, has always been crowded with tourists/pilgrims, and always been full of tacky souvenir shops and cheap food places. Pilgrims, not generally being rich and traveling weeks or months to get there, needed to resupply, and eat and sleep cheaply. So you can consider that as authentic experience : ). It's all about the abbey, and the town is just for support. Yes it's a steep walk. Thats why it's unique. Just my two cents.

I didn't dislike St. Malo as much as you report, and I think MSM is still iconic, so my vote is to go. But because I had one of your expressed thoughts, I'm providing an old link to a discussion of the topic. As I maybe note in the reference, you may be troubled by the Alligator Farm and other tacky attractions on the hideous "strip" that leads to the unspoiled UNESCO WHS that is still MSM.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/france/travel-to-mount-st-michel

Without knowing you this is impossible to say, however given your comments about tourists and crowds, and given our own experience, I will highly recommend that you stay the night.

To me it felt a lot like a theme park during the day, but it completely transforms at night and early morning. Alternatively, it's a worthy stop just for the view. Plan to see it from afar, and it you are feeling captivated in the moment, venture to the island.

Honestly, I've been twice, and that was two times too many. But let me qualify that by saying it is well worth SEEING - it is a sight you'll never forget, and you should do that if you get the chance. As for going inside and climbing to the top, that was kind of anticlimactic. It is dotted with small museums, little souvenir shops and mediocre restaurants. The views you will see FROM the Abbey are just of the marshes. Not to say it isn't a sweeping, panoramic view, but marshes is pretty much all it is. And yes, there are a lot of stairs to climb - lots and lots.

This is only my opinion, but I don't think you'll miss anything by seeing it from the outside, but not going inside.

If you're looking for something to do in Brittany that doesn't involved touristy options, maybe go see some of the lighthouses on the coast - La Route des Phares. You do need a car for that, but it is easy driving through picturesque villages with stunning views of the sea. One my favorite things I ever did in France.

skybluelaur: Based on the input you provide MSM is tacky stores, crowds, touristy and to the demanding culinary standards of many here, has terrible cuisine. Avoid it!

On the plus side I’ve visited MSM many times including an interesting trip to see it from a distance all around the bay. (without being anywhere on MSM) It’s glorious and magnetic from a distance and fascinating to climb the steep pathway if not too crowded. If you’re there late in the day many will be leaving while you make the climb. The food is ok and missing an iconic location like MSM is far worse than a bad trip to St Malo. GO SEE IT!

Mont St Michel

Touristy: check

Many ticky tacky shops: check

Chock filled with tourists: check - during late morning to late afternoon

A lot of steps: check.

Is it worthwhile? Absolutely. Yes, there is a Medieval town associated with the Abbey. Very few abbeys could exist without one. And it was a pilgrimage site, so as previously described, it has always been crowded, with shops and eateries geared to those crowds. However you have expressed no interest in seeing another Medieval town. But MSM is so much more than the town. I don't know why no one has yet made any mention of the Abbey. It is a beautifully maintained, excellent example of Romanesque/Gothic architecture, and IMO is worth the visit if for no other reason than to explore within it's walls.

The best part of a visit to St. Michel is viewing it across a field of goats and cows and again at night.
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2014/01/21/mont-st-michel-is-that-a-real-place/
It is magical. We went at the end of October years ago and it was not crowded so we were lucky in that. We visited in the afternoon and stayed for dinner (staying off island which I regret) and then returned the next morning to see the Abbey. We had dinner at a hotel near the Abbey. Typical 3 course tourist fare -- perfect okay. Not terrible. Similar to what you get in an average restaurant anywhere in France -- not a culinary delight or something to seek out, but fine.

I think it is an absolute do not miss. But then I thought St. Malo was magical -- we were there in May and it was not very crowded and we don't shop when we travel so the character of local shops is not of concern to us. The food was outstanding. The views spectacular. The city itself charming. https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2020/11/24/all-the-light-we-can-see-st-malo/

It is so hard to make a recommendation about whether MSM is worth it as it is such a personal decision. I will share two perspectives here from our trip there a few weeks ago. My husband is 75 and I have 62, both are in good shape, so physically we were able to navigate the steps and steep incline.

For me, MSM was a site I wanted to see. It has a rich history, magnificent vistas, and an iconic abbey. We did not drive and look a shuttle from Bayeux which landed us in MSM at 10:00 a.m., one of the most crowded times. I am glad we went and I would have regretted not visiting, especially to see MSM at a distance and visit the abbey. If I was driving, I would have opted to get there either early in the day or in the late afternoon to avoid most of the crowds.

For my husband, he did not enjoy it at all. It was too crowded, too many tacky tourist shops, mediocre food, and while the view was spectacular, it was not enough to outweigh all the negatives to him. He would have preferred to spend the time exploring more of the D-Day sites.

My advice to you is ask yourself if you would regret not going? For me, despite the negatives I would have regretted. Interestingly enough all the climb and steps self-selected out many tourists and the abbey overall was not as crowded and in some areas, especially the gardens it was peaceful.

MSM is even more touristy than St. Malo. I didn't find St. Malo oppressive, but I also spent much of my visit on the outer ramparts, walking to the occasionally flooded outer islands, or in my B&B and a couple of restaurants. Did you just go there as a day trip mid-day like everyone else? This being said, Mont Saint-Michel is well worth the visit. But if you are averse to other tourists (you know you are one of them right?), then definitely go for an overnight. During the day it is packed. Hardly anyone actually lives there (unlike St. Malo), so the entire town and economy is geared for tourists. But the vast majority of those tourists are only there in the peak hours mid-day. In the evening or early morning, it is quiet and contemplative. Also, I suspect the majority of tourists don't even make it up to the abbey. Yes, there are a lot of steps and it is all up hill, but to truly appreciate its grandeur, you must see this and must get the view from the top. Go! Go! Go! But be aware of what you will see if you are only going to do a mid-day stop. If you simply must avoid it, then yes, at least do a drive by for the distant views. But if so you will miss an opportunity to really experience the island.

I'm a tourist. It's a UNESCO heritage site. I go with the understanding that I will indeed be amongst many other visitors like myself who have come to explore it. So chock full of tourists just seems par for the course.

It's hard to know if you would regret not going, if you really have no interest in visiting it because it's full of tourists; but I can say for certain that even gazing at it from afar and across meadows is breathtaking and a "pinch me, am I dreaming and really seeing this wonder." It's pretty magical to gaze at.

We loved Mont St Michel, but we visited late afternoon/dusk, and went to the monastery right away in the morning, we planned the walk to arrive at the top at opening, which I think was 9am. We toured the monastery and we were leaving the island as the masses were arriving. The food seems to be the same at all the restaurants and was. . .edible. We wished we'd eaten at the crowded restaurant at the small hotel we stayed at on the "mainland". After we visited the monastery, before leaving for our next destination, we had a lovely picnic with views of MSM from our picnic table.

It was absolutely magical to see MSM from the mainland at the "golden hour". We photographed it with sheep in the foreground and the Mont in the background.

We also liked St. Malo, but we didn't stay there, We stayed in adorable Dinard, and just spent 1/2 day or so at St. Malo, and also visited Dinan.

My last comment is if you think St. Malo and MSM are touristy, man oh man, stay away from Rocamadour. Now, THAT was disappointing. We did enjoy the views of Rocamadour from some of the overlooks, but we could have completely skipped the climb up to the summit

you might check Les Frenchies' visit there

We were there about 2 weeks ago, also 70 yr olds. We arrived around 4:00. By the time we got to our room (that took awhile) and rested our feet for a few minutes, we headed to the abbey a little after 5:00. At that time they were not selling tickets and only admitting people with pre-purchased tickets - which we had. I think we were possibly the last ones admitted, because they were closing up behind us. We did not feel hurried or rushed though, but were so glad we already had tickets. Yes, the town was awfully crowded when we got there, and the tacky shops surround you. We ate at the new Le Logis Saint Catherine. Fine dining with a view and a price tag to match, but delicious. My first overall impression was - I’m missing the magic. Maybe I was hot, tired, and old! But looking back, would I be disappointed if we had not had that experience? I think decidedly yes, we would have. I’m very glad that we have that memory to add to our trip. So my advice - go with reasonable expectations, but go!