A change in our itinerary has opened up the option of visiting MSM for a day during the first week of May. I've read the section of the RS France book about MSM, and I wanted feedback from this community on whether you thought it was worth putting up with the apparently overpriced and average accommodations ON the island vs staying on the mainland. I know the crowds descend mid-morning through dinner, and we're willing to get up and get on the island first thing to avoid them as much as possible (especially in the Abbey), but I don't know if the timing of the shuttles really make that possible. We're very willing to pay a bit more for the island experience if it's recommended, given the quality, prices, steps, etc. Thoughts?
One of the most magical memories I have is of walking the MSM ramparts in the evening after all the tourists depart, and even after dark. There's no comparison with the experience during the day, when everything is a tourist crush. Also, the little church (not the abbey) halfway up the island sometimes offers evening concerts. So yes, spring for the opportunity to stay on the island overnight.
We were happy that we stayed overnight. It was nice to walk around after dinner, and it was nice to tour the Abbey first thing in the morning. Although you could argue that its a tourist trap, it does make you think about what life must have been like back in the day and it is an unusual opportunity to stay comfortably in a place that many people made pilgrimages to with great effort. The surrounding water and grass are really pretty to look at from a perch at MSM.
I agree with both; it MAY be a tourist trap, and over priced but MSM is so lovely in the evening, it's worth it. We were there in the month of December a few years ago and were blessed with a very clear night. It was fun walking around with hardly anyone there.
Mont-Saint-Michel during a day with hordes of tourists comparing to seemingly empty island in the evening and night is like comparing hell to heaven. Don't deprive yourself of that experience.
Of course, it is much better to discover MSM early in the morning or in the evening. But it is not necessary to choose a hotel on the island to enjoy that. There are early and late shuttles (though less frequent), and it is still possible to cross the light bridge on foot to reach hotels on the mainland, or the parking lot if you choose a hotel in a neighbouring town.
I would elect to stay on MSM, especially if it's only one night. It really does take on a whole different feel once evening descends and the day trippers have left. If you decide to stay elsewhere, do check the tide tables. On my one evening there I wanted to go back to the bridge to get a night view of the island. As I approached the entrance at the bottom of the hill I could see that the tide had come in so high that it was not possible to get out.
You can walk the ramparts at night without staying on MSM. Stay nearby and visit outside of the most crowded hours. I didn't see hours in the parking lot. At worst it's a long walk after the shuttles stop.
Staying on the island is more convenient but also more expensive. I didn't price rooms there, I stayed at a hostel near Cancale. I did hope to eat an omelette on the island, until I saw the price (35 to 50 euros for one, I'm not exagerating). If that's indicative of the price of food and possibly lodging on the island, it's out of my price range.
I was planning to go back in the evening to watch the tides but opted for a cafe in Cancale, with seaviews, instead. Different experience but also nice.
Thank you all for your feedback. I was able to book a room at the Hotel du Guesclin for the night. It's supposedly a bay-side room, so we hope to have nice views. I've read much about the periodic bait-and-switch that occurs, and I hope not to encounter this on our visit. Visiting MSM has been on my bucket list for ages, and we're thrilled we are able to fit it in.
Excellent choice goodwinshop! We've stayed on island twice, and if I were to visit again I wouldn't do it any other way!
We stayed off island because the most wonderful thing about St. Michel is the view from a distance day or night:
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2014/01/21/mont-st-michel-is-that-a-real-place/
But if I had to do it over again I'd stay on the island; we had dinner on the island and walked around after dark but we were there in late October and there were not large crowds. If I were going in high season I would particularly want to choose to be there early and late before the crowds.
We stayed at Hotel du Guesclin last September and enjoyed it very much. The half board option provided a lovely dinner. Reserve a bay view window in the dining room. I booked a bay view hotel room, which I got, although it was a different room than I expected. It was not a problem.