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Marseille and the Côte d'Azur

I need some help from my friends. My preliminary plan is to fly to Marseille in March for 8-9 nights. I like exploring small towns, markets, visiting museums (though I'm not a fan of modern art, the Chagall and Picasso Museums are on my list) and historic buildings. I'm sure I could find enough to keep me busy for a lot longer, but my bank account is insisting I keep this trip short.

Marseille 1-2N arrive (no jetlag) at 9.30 am
Nice 3-4N including day trips
Côte d'Azur 2-4N with a rental car, mainly to drive the three Corniches, and any other scenic routes, stopping to enjoy the views and take some photos, and perhaps visit some less accessible villages. I'd rather drive an extra 1-2 hours than change hotels.

What I need is someone to give me a plan! Which places to see as day trips from Nice by bus or train. How many days to spend in Nice itself. Is 1 day enough in Marseille? Where to stay on a budget on the Côte d'Azur with a car. How many days do I want for scenic driving?

Posted by
8293 posts

Earlier this year we spent a cruse ship day in Marseilles , just the one day. I was surprised to see how interesting the city looked and would like to spend a few days there. If Urban Planning and Architecture are of interest, there is the Le Corbusier apartment building which offered a different kind of city living. Maybe old hat by now but it was break through planning at the time. The only other time I was close to Marseilles, my husband, who was an Urban Planner, insisted on visiting the complex. Le Corbusier was his hero. Very particular interest, I know.

Posted by
1103 posts

We stayed in Nice for four nights and found plenty to do. The Matisse museum was fun, but we were not crazy about the contemporary art museum. We stayed at the Hotel Durante, which was a short walk to the Nice train station.

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8293 posts

The Museum of Modern Art in Nice, which I believe caused a major scandal when it was built, has a lot of Yves Klein art. I was not familiar with him at all so it was an education to see his work and learn about him. The building has (had?) a roof to garden, which is fun to visit.

Posted by
28107 posts

I like your time allocation, but I'm on the record as having been disappointed in Marseilles. I made the mistake of staying near the main RR station, which isn't a particularly attractive area. I did enjoy my walks around the port.

I think you'll be able to find a very reasonably priced hotel room in Nice during your time period. I had a long talk with the manager of the budget hotel I stayed in, during which he explained how hard it was to provide the quality experience his French clientele expected (they apparently insist on very nice towels) while still keeping his rates down. I gathered that occupancy levels may not be super-high outside of mid-summer and periods when there's a major event on the Riviera like the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, so rates can be quite soft.

I suggest looking at the website of the Fondation Maeght in St.-Paul-de-Vence to see whether it would appeal to you. I loved it, but art is a matter of taste. As much as the mobs of tourists in SPdV bugged me, I can't recommend skipping the place since you'll have a car at your disposal. It really is a beautiful town; it's just that every building seems to house a tourist shop or restaurant (rather like Taormina).

I really liked the Naïve Art Museum and Asian Art Museum in Nice. Both are out toward the airport but not particularly close together; I took buses on separate days (and got majorly hung up in traffic as I headed back into town on one of those days). I was told the garden near the Asian Art Museum is nice but didn't see it myself.

I'll give you the same warning I've given others heading to that part of France during the off-season: Check the websites of places you want to visit, because some of the smaller ones may not be open as many days a week as you would expect. You may encounter some 4-day weeks, or possibly even 3-day weeks.

I would use the train along the coast and just drive the middle and upper corniches (or rather, I wouldn't drive any of them, but I know you often drive in Europe). You'll probably save time with a car for any trip into the hills.

Try to find time for the relatively non-touristy Vence and Tourrettes-sur-Loup. I think TsL is very difficult if not impossible to manage without a car. In those two towns you'll be able to get photographs without other tourists in them, which I suspect will be impossible in most other Riviera towns, even in March.

If you have a particular interest in Picasso, you might like to fit in Vallauris, where he did much of his ceramic work. Vallauris is between Antibes and Cannes and doesn't get hordes of tourists. However, it's not a particularly striking town, architecturally. I also went to Biot, which is known for glass. There's a small glass museum there, and on the edge of town there's the Leger Museum, which I didn't have time for. Biot is atmospheric but won't make you forget Vence or St-Paul-de-Vence.

The tourist office on the plaza in front of the Nice Ville RR station was extremely helpful to me. It had brochures on some of the nearby peninsulas that I planned to walk around (Cap Ferrat, etc.). Don't pay too much attention to guide book references to the fancy houses along the coast. In my experience, they're nearly all behind high walls. Your best chance to see them is to look down on them from above.

There are weekly markets all over the place; I assume they operate in March. I never found an easy-to-use comprehensive list, so in the end I did a lot of Googling.

If you like gardens, I thought the best were the two in Menton and the one at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. I didn't go to Monaco, though.

Posted by
1384 posts

I spent 9 wonderful in Marseille two years ago and loved every moment. They have world class museums, friendly people, phenomenal food. Then there is le vieux port. Heaven! I don’t think one day is enough.

Posted by
714 posts

You might consider 2N in Marseilles at the front end, just with the logistics of landing

March is part of the low season along the Cote d'Azur, so lodging rates are well down. Parking and driving out of Nice can be a problem, but the low season is much better. You might just consider taking the train between the two and then renting a car for your last several days. Taking a train to Cannes and Antibes is the preferable way to go, the same with Villefranche sur Mer. Cap Ferrat and the Villa Ephrussi might also interest you. You can take a train or bus to Monaco, and take a drive or train to Menton.

Although you can take a bus to Eze and St Paul de Vence, you might want to reserve it for a driving day. With a car, you can hit St. Paul de Vence, Vence, Tourettes sur Loup and Gourdon in a loop. Eze can be combined with La Turbie. You can also hit places like Peillon and Peille.

If you choose to drive between the two, there are a number of stops along the way. Also, you could consider a smaller village like Villefranche-sur-Mer or town like Antibes. Just outside of St. Paul de Vence there are some nice bed and breakfasts, we staying in one that was quite reasonable and beautiful when we were househunting.

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15791 posts

Well, a month has passed I finally have committed to the trip. I bought the air tickets yesterday, after a lot of mulling over. I land in Marseille at 9.25 am on Tuesday, March 12 and fly to Barcelona from Nice at 12.50 on Friday, March 22. After all, how could I get "that close" and not spend 3 days in Barcelona!?!!

I've spent today looking at Marseille sights and I've found about enough to fill 2 days. Then on to the Côte d'Azur. Saturday night friends convinced me that it's worthwhile to day trip (or at least 1/2 day) to Monaco.

That leaves me with 7 nights, 7.5 days since I'll use Thursday morning going from Marseille to Nice. I had toyed with the idea of spending a couple of night in Antibes, but I think I'd rather hunker down in Nice and daytrip there and lots of other places. Then I'd pick up a car to drive the upper corniches and other places better done by car than train/bus, including Gooster's suggestions. Drop the car at the airport.

So, how many nights in Nice and how many with the car. And what would be a good, not expensive, place to stay with the car?

Thank you!!

Posted by
714 posts

I think you could easily spend another day in Marseilles or a day trip outside the city (like to Coulliore or Arles). How many days to spend largely depends on your projected interests, outside of Monaco. I think Thursday through Tuesday would give you time for day trips to Cannes/Antibes, Eze/Monaco, Villefranche Sur Mer/Cap Ferrat and Nice itself. You could add or delete a destination as time permitted. That would leave Tuesday through Friday to explore the countryside or places that are tough to reach by public transport. Once you get out of the coastal cities, you can find smaller B&Bs/Gites and hotels (if open) that have parking, but mostly outside the core of the village. Even as close as just outside St. Paul de Vence or even just outside places like Mougins. Being March, take care not to pick someplace too remote.

Posted by
10634 posts

Gooster may have meant Cassis because Collioure is a couple of hours west.

Like Alexander, I appreciate Marseille’s hidden gems and have spent a lot of time in both areas: Marseille/ Cassis and Nice/Riviera.

In Marseille there is the much-overlooked St. Victor Abbey with its amazing crypt. You’ll find Celtic vestiges deep in the center, Roman artifacts around the perimeter, and a venerated Black Madonna.
I don’t think this is any guidebooks. There is a bakery across the street that sells “navette” cookies, flavored with orange water.

Unfortunately, most of my other favorites would be yawns for you, with all the history and archaeology you have in Israel. Do go to Cassis, though. It’s charming in the off-season. Tiny Restaurant Bonaparte, on a backstreet, is the place to get a good meal inexpensively.

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1103 posts

The Hotel Durante in Nice has free parking. We stayed there in May 2018, and found it to be a good value. The Durante is less than 200 meters from the train station, and a 15 minute walk to the beach.

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714 posts

Thanks bets, yes I meant cassis.... I blame my head cold :)

Note on rental cars in Nice, you can pick them up on your way out at the train station or there are several in-city locations of major agencies (Hertz/Dollar/Thrifty, Europcar, and Sixt are clustered near near Le Meridien righ off the Promenade, for example)