We are returning to Lyon for just 3 nights. On our previous trip we were very happy with two of our choices, Cafe de Soleil and Cafe Layon but not our third choice, definitely a tourist restaurant. There is one other post on this subject and they mention Cafe des Federations which looks lovely. We are staying near Bellecour Plaza and like to walk most everywhere. It does not need to be fancy, but I do prefer quiet, but as we eat around 7, it usually can be quiet. I am aware of Rue de Merciere but am looking for something away from there. Naturally, we are thinking of French food. Is there such a thing of French influenced Italian food? Either would be wonderful. Any thoughts? Many thanks.
Posted by
Normandie
412 posts
A few suggestions. Some you might find easier if you were to take transit, which is quite good in Lyon.
Le Florentin is a small restaurant in the 6th. When we lived in Lyon, that was our go-to place when we wanted a nice dinner out.
Arsenic is a bit fancier but not too snooty. Definitely enjoyed our meals there.
Le Cochon qui Boit is north on the presqu'île among a cluster of good restaurants. Perhaps a bit more lively than the first two, but not too bad on the times I've been there.
If you want to step it up a notch on level of service and cost, consider the following:
La mère Brazier is a Lyon institution. A bit fancy for my taste, but if you want an experience its servers and chef will deliver.
Le Gourmet de Sèze is another Michelin-starred place with terrific food that will impress almost anyone, but again, the service is Michelin starred level. Take that as a compliment, but it's not my preference. I'm a bit more casual.
Lastly, I would be remiss if I didn't mention Café Comptoir Abel, south of Bellecour along the Saône as you approach Perrache. It's an experience. The food is a bit more uneven in execution than the places I mentioned above, but dining there is like dining in a place that -- as one of my friends described -- looks as if it hasn't been remodeled since the French revolution. An exaggeration to be sure, but it's a pretty interesting institution. I believe Anthony Bourdain was a bit of a fan before his untimely demise.
Lyon has hundreds of restaurants that are quite good -- these are some I personally can vouch for. But there are touristy ones, such as many of those along rue Mercière.
Posted by
Normandie
412 posts
I knew I'd forget one. If you like a good meal served in a beautiful space with ornate Art Nouveau tile work, give Brasserie des Brotteaux a try. Right on a major bus line so it's easy to get to. It's probably one of the prettiest restaurants I've visited. One of my co-workers told the story of a wealthy Chinese businessman who offered to buy the place for well over its value because he wanted to disassemble it and move it to China. Probably apocryphal, but it made a good story over wine after work.
Posted by
OP
Darmouth, MA, USA
404 posts
Bob, Thank you for all the suggestions. I am very surprised at the lack of information on Lyon in this forum. We visited in 2023 for 4 days and thoroughly enjoyed the city. So much, it is a bit out of the way on the fall's visit but we wanted to finish what was not open on our last trip. It appears that Lyon is not high on many travelers' list. Maybe that is a good thing!
Posted by
Normandie
412 posts
That's right. It's always interesting to read comments from people on this forum looking for authentic restaurants in France that aren't stuffed full of tourists. Perhaps in Paris that's a bit more of a challenge, but in Lyon it more or less requires walking into any restaurant you encounter (outside of rue Mercière and Vieux Lyon) and sitting down.
If you want to overhear English being spoken on the street or in restaurants, head to Beaune. If you don't, go to Lyon. Not that they're similar: Beaune is deeply marinated in tourism and wine production. Lyon is much, much bigger and leans far more into wine consumption with a small dash of tourism (plus it has huge finance, manufacturing, software development, and scientific research components to its economy).
By the way, we lived in Lyon for several years so if you have specific questions feel free to message me on this forum and I'll do my best to help out.
Posted by
North Georgia, USA
1301 posts
Someone on this forum recommended https://lebouchondesfilles.fr/ several years ago and I am forever grateful, although I cannot remember who it was! We have been twice and loved it.