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Looking for two special places to stay within a few hours by train from Paris

Hello fellow forum readers,

I will be finishing up a tour in Greece with a week in France before flying back home in May 2025. I am in the early stages looking for two locations besides Paris to fill these last seven days where the lodging is important to me this time. (I’ve been to Paris several times.) This week will fall on the first anniversary of my husband’s death, so I am being very particular on some of these wishes - thanks for your understanding. : )

  • I want cities I can reach by train. (2 hrs or less would be ideal.)
  • I am seeking a very nice hotel or B&B with rooms that are cheerful - not Americanized & not a dark or gloomy feeling. For these, I would like breakfasts that feel like a B&B type offering. (I will probably stay in a more budget-type room in Paris.). One that I am considering is the room at the Hôtel Le Boeuf Couronné in Chartres that includes a sitting room.
  • I would like some activities or museums where I could walk to them. I will be coming from a tour, so I would like that feeling of independence for this week & not be joining day-tours. ; ). Extra perks to cities that start their evening Lumière shows in May, a favorite evening activity for me!
  • I would like to avoid any settings that are busy with crowds or specifically drawn towards romance, or related to war.
  • The city should be a good size for a 2-night stay.
  • And a wish of perfect weather -LOL!

I have stayed in Rouen, Le Mans, Chartres, Angers, Tours, Caen, Nancy, Lyon, Annecy, Avignon, Carcassonne, Toulouse, Nice & Colmar. I am considering returning to Chartres as one of the cities but none of the others this time.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Posted by
1520 posts

Jean,
I understand how this should be a special place for you. Jave you considered Amiens? I understabnd the cathedral is spectacular, and the city has canals and floating market gardens. Best of luck in your search.

Posted by
8694 posts

LIlle and Nantes are possibles but you are on your own for finding your cheerful hotel yada yada -- good luck with that. I add Versailles only because of the lumieres thing. If you choose Nantes check for the timing of the elephant walk and the Marine Carousel and choose dates that they are running and book the elephant ahead. We also liked St. Malo although you are not talking museums and such but it is a stunning place and Annecy which is really beautiful for a couple of nights.

We have done all these place without a car. We love the Dordogne but you really need a car there and we no longer drive.

Posted by
198 posts

Have you considered Beaune? It is a very compact, walkable city. The main attraction is the Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune is a former charitable almshouse in Beaune, France. It was founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Burgundy, as a hospital for the poor. The audio guide is from his perspective and it was so touching to see his heart for providing care for the poor. For someone who loves mustard almost as much as wine, I really enjoyed the Moutarderie Fallot mustard factory and shop. They are the only mustard using 100% mustard seeds grown in France. Who knew? Beaune has streets to wander galore with cute shops, fabulous cafes and restaurants - make a reservation for dinner! And finally, we stayed at Les Remparts Hotel. The rooms are bright, large with exposed stone walls and beams. The included breakfast was an extensive buffet and also to order al a carte, served either on the terrace in the courtyard or the breakfast room. We enjoyed our 2 nights here. They do have a light show, but I’m not sure when it starts. I don’t think you would be disappointed with staying in Beaune.

Posted by
10418 posts

Hi Jean -- this is a very good question and I will try to think if I have any suggestions. It's of course so important to be able to find what you would find suitable as you are there on the anniversary of your husband's passing. But you have been to more cities that fit the criteria than I have !!! I will put on my thinking cap and see if I come up with any ideas that fit your parameters.

Posted by
688 posts

Jean,
My "location vote" for you is Reims. It meets some of your criteria:
*Easily reached by train. About an hour from Paris.
*Very walkable to museums. Yes, it does have a museum connected to WWII, but you'd never know it since it is away from the
"tourist area."
*Lumière shows: not sure if it means light shows on facade of buildings. Reims has two: the Cathedral and Basilica
*It's not very crowded with tourists, but locals. Many of the outdoor cafes at night are filled with college-age young people
*You could easily fill your time with a two-night stay.
*Can't guarantee perfect weather; perhaps add another night to ensure good weather.
The only drawback is I don't know if it has a B & B like your "wish list."
We were in Reims for the start of our RS' Eastern France tour. We were there 4 nights; two pre-tour and two with the tour. I was pleasantly surprised at how much I liked Reims.
The pedestrianized area is quite long and has many restaurants with outdoor seating. Some of these eating places served food all day ( My husband and I prefer to eat our evening meal before 7:00 p.m). Great for people-watching.
We were there the end of August. I was pleasantly surprised to see families (looked like locals) in the area, buying granita, children riding the merry-go-round, etc.
We stayed at the Hotel Continental; very close to the train station, but not at all like your ideal B & B. Our room faced the green space rather than the pedestrianized area, and we saw school-age kids walking to school, and joggers, and people just sitting and relaxing on benches.
Can you tell I really liked Reims?
And...we went to Vieuv Cliquet for lunch and had my new favorite champagne (Never liked champagne before). It was called "Rich Rose" and was served with ice cubes. Delish! A bottle or two of it is on my Christmas wish list.
Looking at the places where you've already been, I've only been to Lyon, Annecy, and Colmar. I liked Reims more than Lyon. I loved Annecy, but it was for reasons not mentioned on your criteria. And I wanted to like Colmar, but there were too many tourists during the day. And it was difficult to be spontaneous for meals. One day we tried to eat at 3 different places for lunch. "Sorry, no room."

Posted by
7983 posts

Thank you, everyone, who has responded either here or through a private message! You have each given me cities and info that I have been looking at in detail on-line over the weekend. The idea of Lille has even expanded my scope to maybe include a small city in Belgium and just fly from Athens into Brussels and out of Paris to fly home afterwards. I haven’t been in Belgium since 1975, although the old centers look the same! ; )

Posted by
7983 posts

”And I wanted to like Colmar, but there were too many tourists during the day.”

Carol, that’s how we felt about Colmar, too! We had just spent some wonderful days in Nancy, so it was quite a difference to suddenly have Colmar’s touristy shops & crowds.

Posted by
1357 posts

Bordeaux is two hours from Paris via TGV. I strongly recommend considering Bordeaux, as you don't list it in your past visits. It's my favorite place in France. We also loved Orléans, a very underrated city that gets very little tourist visitation. The Loire is lovely and crystal clear in Orléans, and the city's residents flock to its banks in summer to eat, drink and play. Wonderful place.

Posted by
2334 posts

Jean - read Michelle Damiani's recent post on Ghent if you haven't already. It made me want to to there!

Posted by
7983 posts

Janet, ever since I read Michelle’s book of their family’s year in Spello, I have enjoyed her perspective on places. My experience in Alberobello last May was so aligned with what I read from her thoughts, too. I hadn’t read her blog on Ghent, so thank you! I just looked through it, and yes, it seems just what I would be wanting, also - less busy, more “unpolished” tourist experience. Either way, I will at least take a daytrip over to Bruges.

Posted by
7983 posts

Well, my plans have changed for next May….in a good way. I will leave this post active for possibly helping other readers. Thanks again for your excellent ideas!

I do like the idea of going to Orleans as part of a route for Chartres. The Orleans evening light show doesn’t begin until June. That would make a nice grouping of Orleans, Chartres and be in Paris during the June music night! Flying into Brussels and going to Bruge/Ghent & Lille as the week before could be a nice variety with that subsequent route, also.

Posted by
1087 posts

Thanks Jean for this thread, I've added Reims (thanks Carol), as a 3-4 day trip from Sweden. Hmmmm now I need to check out Michelle Damiani’s Ghent blog post & her book, as we'd so like to enjoy Ghent if it's not too crowded... (When I click on Michelle’s blog, the very first article is about Turin, high on our list for a week at Christmas!)

So where are you going now in May??

Posted by
7983 posts

Sandanciso, I am going to cancel the Gate 1 Greece tour and spend all three weeks going back to the Puglia region of Italy. I enjoyed it so much in May 2024! One week in that region after the Greece tour would not be enough time to go where I want - some repeats/some new.

And brushing up on Italian is much easier than trying to learn Greek! Whew, that’s a difficult one!

Posted by
1520 posts

Jean, Puglia isn't too far off from Sicily. I would spend 10 days there (longer if I could). Just a thought.

Posted by
7983 posts

Hi Judy, I did go to Palermo last May when I was in Italy for a month. I really enjoyed my five days there! I will probably do the RS Sicily tour some year. There’s a lot more of Sicily to see! When I flew over to Palermo after the Puglia region, I ended up taking the train back to Rome and flying over to Palermo from there the next morning because the routes & connection times from Bari or Brindisi weren’t as handy as I would have expected.

Posted by
1087 posts

I am going to cancel the Gate 1 Greece tour and spend all three weeks
going back to the Puglia region of Italy. How wonderful Jean, that sounds like an area that needs further relaxation and exploration.

HAHA, yep Italian is a lot easier than Greek. If you feel like sharing, would love to hear your broad strokes for Puglia next May.

Would you have suggestions for my birthday week next December? Here's the thread, so I won't hijack yours! (Don't worry about how cold it might be, we're coming from the Frigid North!) https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/looking-for-less-crowded-city-over-nye-2025-2026