When we were last in Paris (16 years ago!), every dinner we had was of the classic long, slow, this-is-your-table-for-the-evening variety. We’ve now been here for three nights, in the same part of town (St-Germain), and all three dinners (including at one of the same restaurants) has been more American in style: they take our complete order at the outset, and bring out the courses one after the other — i.e. the main course arrives almost before we’ve had a chance to finish the appetizer. It’s not rushed exactly but it’s distinctly different. What’s the deal?
Tourist area, high rents, table turnover necessary.
Agree with previous poster. In prep for a trip in June, I notice some restaurants going to the pain to mention that they do only one seating (ie: the table is yours, no rush) which leads me to believe that they are the exception rather than the norm. Of course those places are also $$$$ not $$, and offer mostly set menus.
You are probably noticing bigger crowds, harder to get into packed museums, and other signs of heavy tourism (heck, 16 years ago we could show up at the Eiffel Tower and after a short wait, get a ticket to the top); Plus, I would not blame tourists entirely, the French have changed, they themselves forego the long multi-course meals as well, opting for lighter, quicker fare.
As others have said - if you're in a tourist area these days, you get shunted in - and out - or restaurants pretty quickly. Or so I have heard. personally, I never dinner in St Germain, so I wouldn't know, but I have never left a restaurant before I am ready to leave.
Ordering should be done entree and main dish (note terminology) and the ordering dessert after you have finished your main. Anything else, and you know you're in a place that's either pre-theatre, or tourist orientated. It might be a useful trick to not order dessert at the waiter's first visit to the table, and let them know you're wise to their games...
Some small, and special, restaurants plan two seatings an evening. Reservations are required at a specific time. If you are in the first shift, you can't linger over multiple drinks because your table is needed. The economics of small places require this formality. It's usually worth it -- and a nightcap will surely be available nearby.
The economics of small places require this formality. It's usually worth it.
Require is a strong word and one used here without substantiation. There are plenty of excellent, small restaurants which do not limit your dining time.
Unfortunately, there are a few restaurants which only accept reservations at predetermined seatings. They are easily avoided.
I’ve now been here for a little over a week and it is clear to me that in general, the old approach is all but gone. Two or three different restaurants have made a very clear point of saying that they “cannot” serve our entree until we have placed an order for our plat. This clearly is intended to keep things moving. At the same time I will note that no one has ever been pushy or pressed us to hurry, and that if you get seated after 8:00 or so they have little incentive to press in any event.
Has anyone noticed these two changes noted on France 2 a couple of weeks ago? I don't eat out that much so I have not been affected.
Because of people not showing up for their reservations, some restaurants
a have stopped taking reservations
b. are taking reservations on a credit card basis only so a "no show" can be charged
We listened to various restaurateurs talking about hiring unnecessary wait staff, turning away clients who were already there to make room for those supposedly coming, the purchases of unneeded essentials etcetcetc.
Just wondering if any had experienced these reported changes.
Yes, even Paris is changing. For better or worse.
This seems strange to me Two or three different restaurants have made a very clear point of saying that they “cannot” serve our entree until we have placed an order for our plat. In all the years (decades) I've been going to France or living there, I've always ordered the two at the same time, composed the dinner, if it's a menu or if I'm ordering both a first and second course if ordering à la carte. Is it because you are waiting to see how full you are after the first course? I have waited to order in the States, so I understand what you are saying, but it's never occurred to me not to order the two together in France, because that's just the way it's done. To the contrary, if some places have accepted ordering course by course, you are revolutionizing the old system.
However, we did have that awful rushed experience--even worse than "the main course arrives almost before we’ve had a chance to finish the appetizer. at the Restaurant Champeaux opened by Alain Ducasse in Les Halles. They brought our main course out while we were drinking aperitif! We sent it back! The rest of the meal went the same way--awful American style service. It wasn't a matter of "serving the tourists" as everyone was Parisian (except me). But, I had read a review about the restaurant in the New York Times so am responsible for suggesting that awful evening to our friends.
Frankly, I haven't been impressed by places lauded in the reviews, including Paris by Mouth. Maybe you are going to restaurants that are in too many guidebooks and had a lot of reviews? No matter, undoubtedly things have changed greatly over the last 16 years--and you're experiencing the change all at once. Your post has gotten me thinking about how things have changed. (bakeries serving salads and sandwiches, fewer menus and more à la carte dining, need for reservations).