I'll be in the Loire Valley for 7 days this October, arriving from Aix via train. I'm 70, female, traveling solo. I've read the best base is Amboise for the chateaux I want to see. I'm not planning to rent a car. Would that be a mistake in Amboise, or is there good train or bus transportation between chateaux? The Amboise train station is 1/2 mile from town, which could be challenging with luggage. Without luggage, it's easy. Is there another town that would be better? Should I go ahead and rent a car? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Rent a car…you will be glad you did! The chateaus are gorgeous and well worth the time. You will want to see Villandry as well and a car will be necessary to see them all. We loved basing in Amboise…Fun town to enjoy after a day of touring.
I fully agree with what Jane has to say. Driving in the area is very easy, and you can see places on your own schedule. Take the train to St Pierre des Corps. There are several rental agencies just outside the station. It's only about 23 km to Amboise.
Unfortunately, you do not state which châteaux you want to visit, but I would not want to spend 7 days in Amboise. It’s a small town with a very long walk from the train station, and there is only so much you can do there. In October, Amboise is not that lively, many of the seasonal restaurants will be closed. In October, there will be plenty of parking if you rent a car, but traveling solo in a car rental does not seem that appealing.
I would stay in Tours. Plenty of restaurants, cafés, shopping, and museums. From the train station, Tours Centre, there is a good selection of hotels within short walking distance, the Office de Tourisme is just across the street with minibus tours of the most interest châteaux, though schedules will be less frequent in winter. By train, you can reach Langeais, Amboise, Blois, and Château Chenonceau.
October has short days, with a lot of rain, and cold temperatures. Amboise can get a bit lonely. I would definitely stay in Tours, somewhere near the train station, Place Plumereau, and the cathedral.
Tours is always a better option than Amboise if you're not driving.
To get to most châteaux from Amboise by public transport you would have to transit through Tours anyway.
(To my mind the much fetishised Amboise is overrated, anyway. You need not look too far to see who is responsible. To give a local's aspect, Amboise is somewhere to avoid during the tourist season if at all possible)
Amboise is an easy and pleasant daytrip from Tours by train. It was very crowded when we were there in late July. I still enjoyed my time there but the crowds and the very "touristccentricity" of the town not quite my thing.
I think it would be a poor choice for a base if using PT. I would think you would need to take the train back to Tours to travel to other chateaux. Also as you noted the station is some distance from the main part of the town of Amboise.
I usually prefer small towns to cities but found the "vibe" of Tours more to my liking than Amboise.
Tours is also far more convenient than Amboise. I travelled by PT from Tours to Loches, Langeais and Amboise (loved Loches and Langeias). It also was our point of arrival and departure for the Loire. I had nice friendly social interactions in Tours, not so in Amboise (may just be by chance rather than a pattern) I found nice pubs and lower end restaurants, and very affordable accommodation.
Cheers.
We stayed in Tours 4 nights, and it was easy to get to chateaux with no car.
Our arrival day we spent in Tours. The old town is very charming. The rest of the city not that remarkable. We did enjoy going to the open air bars down by the Loire, but they will probably be closed in fall.
Check out Touraine Evasion. These are van tours that basically just drop you at the chateaux…you buy your own tickets. We saw 4 in one day.
Did Chenonceau on our own, train literally drops you right in front.
Amboise was a 20 minute train, and about a 10-15 minute walk into town. Very charming we spent the whole day…it would be a hard walk with luggage. But perhaps you could get an Uber or taxi.