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Loire Valley

Hello,
I have not had a chance to read the Q&A regarding France /Loire valley, so please forgive me if my questions are repetitive!

We are planning on a 10 day trip to France at the end of August. We plan on staying 5 nights in Paris and then head to the Loire valley for the remainder of the 4 nights. However, lately I have been thinking about shortening the Loire valley trip to just 2 days (covering 4 chateaux)and then exploring our options to either head to Sarlat, Mont Blanc, Geneva or Mosel valley!! Yes I know I am all over the map! Bascially we are looking for a picturesque setting rather than city life. We can catch our return flight either from Paris, Geneva or Frankfurt.
So recommendations are appreciated!

My second question regarding Loire Valley is... we are going to be staying in Amboise and will get the 4 chateaux pass for the following Chateux... Amboise, Clos Lucé, Chenonceau and Chambord. What is the recommended itenary to see all 4 chateux in 2 days? We are not planning to rent a car since we are not comfortable with driving a manual.. hence taxi, train, tour buses and/ or bikes are going to be our mode of transportation.

Many Thanks!

-Vivien

Posted by
255 posts

I just came back from France and did similar routing but rented a car leaving Paris. My thoughts are 4 full days in Paris will give you a great stay and allow for a pretty good taste of everything it has to offer. I would then go to Amboise for two nights, Le Manor Les Minimes was an EXCELLENT place to stay with up close views of the Chateau and a 5 minute walk to the town center and the Chateau, and see 5 Chateau as Amboise's is in your backyard and can be seen at any time in about two hours. Add Chaumont which to me had the prettiest grounds and overall look. I really think renting an automatic car is the way to go. They are available. The Chateaux are pretty scattered and I would want to control my time and schedule if at all possible rather than be herded around. You don't have enough time to see much by bike. Then go to the Dordogne for 2 or 3 days which is actually prettier than the Loire IMHO. We stayed at Le Petite Versailles in spectacular Beynac and it was wonderful and convenient to everywhere. You must have a car in the Dordogne. Lots of beautiful scenery in that area as well as amazing cave art, great views from Donne, the canoe trip from Vitrac to Beynac, Beynac Castle, La Roque and the Foie Gras culture. I would fly back from Paris rather than spend the time getting to the other cities.

Posted by
4132 posts

You can have a satisfying visit to some Loire chateux in 2 days. (It would be plenty for us.) You'd need a car, though, to see the chateaux, or a bicycle. There might be some bus tours, and of course "car" includes hiring a driver.

However, 2 days from that part of France is not enough time for your other prospective destinations. It would take you most of the day to get to any of them.

Posted by
48 posts

Thank you Brian and Adam.... appreciate your feedback.
Brian, I like your suggestion of focusing on Loire and Dordogne. I will definitely look into it!
Thanks,
Vivien

Posted by
3313 posts

I have said many times on this board that the Loire is the equivalent of the San Joaquin Valley except with nuclear plants and castles. If there is a chateau you really want to see, by all means go there. If you're expecting a pastoral setting among farms and blooming lilies, it's a bust. You'll go nuts on the side roads waiting for tractors. If you drive the autoroutes, of course you miss its charms. Tractors and cows; truckers on the autoroute. Take your choice. You have to really want to see Chambord.

(Did I dis the Loire enough?)

Posted by
48 posts

Doug...I will let you know my answer after I get back from France! :)
Thx.

Posted by
9436 posts

I've been to the Loire many times, but it must have been a different Loire Valley than the one Doug is describing. I love the Loire Valley and think it's incredibly beautiful. Driving the 2 lane roads, and along the river, was fun and easy for us. I've spent time in the Dordogne, but I like the Loire better. We're all different, no right or wrong. You can easily do the chateau in Amboise and Clos de Luce in a day. The town of Amboise is charming and we've enjoyed walking all over, and all through the residential area many times. We saw a Light and Sound show at the chateau in Amboise on one visit and it was wonderful. They have them at different chateaux throughout the valley on various nights, well worth finding out if you can go to one.

My favorite chateau of all is Chenonceau, and I believe it's not too difficult to get there by bike from Amboise but I've never done it (would love to though). I have happily spent an entire day there. The grounds are wonderful, as well as the chateau, and they have a cafe there with good food.

We've also stayed at Manoir les Minimes, it is wonderful and very classy, but also very expensive. We've also stayed at Hotel Belle-Vue, which I do not recommend.

Another option to visit after the Loire is Burgundy. We fell in love with that part of France as well.

Posted by
48 posts

Thank you Susan! Yes I checked the rates on Le Manoir Les Minimes and they are pretty pricey but the rooms look gorgeous!
I'm really chewing on everyone's feedback... It really comes down to Loire or no Loire! I don't want to cramp up too much in one trip.
Thx again...

-Vivien

Posted by
4132 posts

If the choice for you is Loire vs. Dordogne and you are okay with the logistics of getting to Sarlat, getting about, and getting to an airport in Bordeaux and Toulouse, then in my view there is no contest. Go south.

You really do not have time to visit both plus Paris in 10 days.

Be advised that the area is not well served by trains or buses.

Posted by
11507 posts

Acco Dispo round chateau tours from Tours and Amboise. They are a van tour ( not big bus) and are apparently well reviewed.

Posted by
3643 posts

Add me to those who were less than enthralled by the Loire valley. I feel like we had to do it ONCE, and two nights was enough. I would never consider a return visit. I will admit, though, that we found the countryside pretty enough. It was early spring, so not too much traffic. You might consider visiting the chateau of Angers for something different. It contains the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, an enormous - - more than 100 meters long - - work from the 14th century. I've read that there is also a modern work on the same theme, but that had not yet been created when we visited 20 years ago. I don't think you really have time for any other destinations, certainly not outside of France. Why not add the two days in question to Paris and do day trips from there? Or, you could spend those days in Brittany or Normandy, which are closer to the Loire and very picturesque. BTW, you might consider poppig for the extra $$ to get a car with automatic. A car gives you so much more flexibility than public transport in rural areas.

Posted by
48 posts

Thanks Rosalyn. I did consider day trips from Paris... but wouldn't it be too much for visiting Amboise, Chenonceau and Chambord - all in the same day?

-Thanks,
Vivien

Posted by
11507 posts

Vivien I have done those three as a tour from Paris, but I had already been to Loire valley years before and had spent two nights there.

I was alone with my then 13 yr old and did not want to drive ,, so bus tour it was( I had not driven on my visit before , my father did, and he is French so he had no issues)

We enjoyed it. I thought it was fine. It IS a long and expensive day bit I have not regretted it. Sleep on the bus.

Posted by
8 posts

Spent several summers in grad school in Angers. Outstanding historic chateau, the city is accessible by TGV from Paris, and a rental from Angers will help you get to some less-visited beauties, one of which is le Chateau Brissac, an historic chateau currently owned by descendants of its original building family and replete with authentic furniture. Nice estate winery. Also, not far from le chateau Saumur, home of the exquisite black parade horses, Le Cadre Noir. If you are able to visit only principal chateaux, Chenonceau and Azay-le-rideau are two must-see visits. Time well spent, loaded with history and intrigue.

Posted by
773 posts

We loved the Loire Valley! Stayed in Amboise at RS recommended La Grange Chambres. Owner, Yveline, was our favorite host in all of France. Easy walk to Chateau Amboise and Clos Luce. We didn't have a car but used the Navette Chateaux excursion bus that leaves from the Blois train station. 6 euros for a day pass that stops at 4 chateaux plus you receive admission discounts to the chateaux. http://www.tlcinfo.net/download.php?f=4349b40667bd24f14476527ee4dd3e3c

Posted by
48 posts

Thank you everyone! Going to skip Loire Valley this trip and heading to Nice et South of France...

Appreciate all your inputs.

-Vivien