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Loire, then Medieval Burgundy-- suggestions: now what?

Greetings RS mavens! My medievalist husband and I are travelling to the Loire Valley (Le Mans, Angers, etc) then to Vezelay, Autun, Beaune and Dijon to see all the fabulous aspects of medieval Burgundy. We've four more nights thereafter to decide which areas to visit next (this is in May--coming up) before our return to Paris, and so home to Chicago. My questions is for those who have visited this area-- should we stay here, or explore the area between Dijon and Paris on our way north and west? Or alternately a wildcard, take a train to Bruge or the Netherlands to see museums there (we've never seen Belgium either) before heading back to Paris. Once there, everything seems so relatively....CLOSE, for an American used to crazy distances.
Any help would be appreciated. We're classical in our tastes for museums, churches, and historical centers....the older, the better. Thanks everyone! Elaine

Posted by
6508 posts

Don't know how long your total trip is, but I'll assume that you're giving the Loire and Burgundy all the time they need and deserve. For me that would be at least a week each, and I'd use the extra days in those regions if necessary to reach that goal. Otherwise, I'd suggest either Lyon (worth several days itself) or the Champagne region, centered at Reims and including WWI sites like Verdun if they interest you.

Hopefully you'll be driving so you can make the most of your time without having to deal with train schedules.

One of the fascinating geographic aspects of Burgundy is that it lies in the headwaters of the Rhone, Seine, and Loire river systems, making it a "transit hub" from pre-Roman through medieval to the beginnings of the industrial age, when canals and railroads opened more options to travelers. I hadn't understood this, or Burgundy's historic importance, till I went there.

Posted by
10192 posts

I've sent you a private message. Let me know if you can find it or if you need help locating the pm on this website.

Posted by
27120 posts

Nancy or Strasbourg would also be possible. And/or the Alsatian wine towns and Colmar.

Posted by
4132 posts

You should include on your tour at least several hours at the Fontenay Abbey, which is near Montbard. It may be a highlight of your trip.

Less grand, the perennial Rick Steves recommendation of the Chateau La Rochepot, south of Beaune, is worth a visit.

If "the older, the better" really applies, there is an ancient salt spring in Sl Pere near Vezeley, with some Roman traces on the site, and Roman and neolithic artifacts housed on a museum in the town. There are also cave paintings in Arcy-sur-Cure, which is in the Cure valley north of Vezeley, but these are not as spectacular as the more famous caves in SW France.

Personally I would not rate either of these ancient sites very highly, but they are not without interest.

Posted by
12172 posts

It seems Alsace is the logical next stop from Burgundy but Lorraine and/or Champagne are also options.

I'd love to hear what your top medieval sight plans are for Burgundy as I'll be there in a couple of weeks.

In Loire, I thought both Fountevraud Abbey and Chinon were great stops for medieval history.

Posted by
841 posts

How about adding Poitiers when you are in the Loire? It has some great churches and is as close to the Loire as Le Mans. For medieval sites, I think the Michelin guides will be very helpful. Have you been to Chartres? Bourges would be a good place to stop in between the Loire and Burgundy. In Burgundy, we really enjoyed Autun -- It has quite a bit of Roman stuff and a nice church.

Posted by
809 posts

While you are in Burgundy, please consider the Chantier/Chateau de Guedelon. It's a project begun in 1997 to build a medieval castle, using authentic plans, materials, and techniques. My mother and I visited in fall 2014 and found it fascinating. It's somewhat like visiting Colonial Williamsburg, except 5 centuries older. Have a great trip!

Posted by
2026 posts

We spent five nights in Burgundy with a car and still couldn't manage all we had hoped. We stayed at the Carpe Diem Guesthouse in Massangis, about 45 minutes from Beaune. The best B&B ever, for price, comfort, and gracious hosts. We used a Michelin guide for the region which outlined several daytrip driving routes. It served our needs quite well. Saw Vezelay, Autun, Auxerre, Fontenay, among others. We concentrated on medieval and Romanesque in this area; missed Cluny due to time. Spent a little time in Chablis, a long time in Troyes (looking for a discontinued camera battery...the general consensus sent us there) and several other places. The countryside was beautiful and driving was easy. Have a wonderful trip and safe travels. Troyes was our least favorite, but that's probably bitterness due to a wild and doomed goose chase. Did see every camera and electronic shop in the region.