Planning on being in Limoges in April…..wanted to know if anyone has shopping tips, etc and advice to the best place to shop for porcelain….I know it can be pricey so did anyone shop a factory store? I do not oppose looking there so any advice is appreciated…..looks like Royal Limoges store would be a good stop….thank you for your help!
Jane , we are also porcelain addicts . I have not been to Limoges , but have been to several other producers ( Meissen , Augarten ) both of them have outlets - Meissen is available at the manufactory and in a few places in Dresden , and Augarten in Vienna is a similar situation . I think Bernardaud and Haviland are still in operation in Limoges , and would be worth a look . Our collection is comprised of small decorative items , ( bud vases , decorated boxes , etc. ) While we do very little shopping in Europe ( dragging items around is rather unappealing ) we do occasionally buy a small piece or two . Royal Limoges has the shop and a museum devoted to the craft , certainly worth a visit , as do Meissen and Augarten . Like The Potteries in Staffordshire , England , many producers have long gone out of business , and what remains of hard paste production is minimal . By the way , if you want to do a bit of shopping at the computer , give this place a look . Great selection by different makers , perfect condition pieces , as well https://www.replacements.com/china/brands
In case you haven't already discovered it, the Limoges tourist office folks have a webpage with downloadable maps and brochures: https://www.limoges-tourisme.com/en/Practical-Informations/Brochures
I really liked Limoges. It's a great, relatively undiscovered destination. These are five things I especially remember there:
The Musee National Adrien-Dubouche has a large porcelain collection. In 2019 every visitor was loaned a tablet computer with a great deal of historical information. I love contemporary ceramics but am not a big fan of the older stuff, so I only allowed a few hours at the museum. I ended up regretting that decision.
The Musee Municipal de L'Eveche has a lovely collection of enamels.
The Cité des Métiers et des Arts is a modest-sized display of various types of craftsmanship by people finishing up specialized training programs in fields like metalwork and woodwork. I think at least some of the pieces may have been what qualified them to begin working in the field--sort of like being admitted to a guild in the old days. I don't read French, so I'm sure there must have been some information posted in English. This is near the Cathedral St-Etienne and the Musee des Beaux Arts.
The historic center is very nice. It was fun to explore.
The Pavillion du Verdurier (an old ice house) is a stunning bit of Art Nouveau architecture.
Oradour-sur-Glane, site of a particularly infamous Nazi atrocity, is not terribly far from Limoges. The destroyed village has been left as it was at the end of the war, and there's a modern memorial/museum documenting what happened. This is not a 30-minute drop-by experience. I think I may have spent two hours in the museum alone, forcing me to rush my visit to the site itself (because of the bus schedule).
Bernardaud is among the most creative of the historic family owned porcelain houses. They have a factory shop, and they also offer excellent tours of the production facility (reservations required). Some of the most classic designs in Limoges porcelain are still produced by them, along with cutting edge contemporary designs.
https://www.limoges-tourisme.com/La-destination/Porcelaine-et-savoir-faire/Porcelaine/(fiche)/fondation-bernardaud-191015299-6ea055e
The Limoges tourist office has lists of the “magasins d’usine.” On the other hand, you will see a lot of “jobber” porcelain in the main street shops, of variable quality. Products with just the word “Limoges“ on them fall into this category. Shop carefully.
Kerouac, I love your family’s porcelaine story. Today’s dishwasher-safe glazes make everyday use of beautiful dishes more possible. I’m glad your parents ultimately enjoyed their dishes every day. A lovely way of living.
We have not been to Limoges yet, but my wife will make sure we get there. Annie Sargent's Join Us In France Podcast #373 is devoted to French porcelain. Apparently one can visit Havilland and their huge kiln. You would likely enjoy the episode.
THANK YOU!
Long ago (over 20 years) I bought tableware at the factory store in Januari for less than half of the market price. It was second choice but there was so much on offer I could easily select tableware with manufactoring defects that are very hard to see. Have to say it was in Germany but maybe is this the case in Limoges too. It was a tip from a local shopkeeper, she said factories sell after Christmas and New Year their superfluous stock. A real good bargain it was.