Lyndash, thanks for your kind words! I can't wait to hear about your trip!
Meert isn't a "chain" in the modern sense (like Starbucks or Ladurée). It is a historic institution that has remained centered in Lille since the 18th century, though they have opened a handful of prestigious boutiques elsewhere.
Restaurant wise... boy. Writing this and reviewing things I've written elsewhere is making me hungry.
Before talking about restaurants we have to first identify a word you'll see everywhere: An estaminet is a traditional, rustic tavern unique to Northern France and Belgium that serves as a cozy community hub for local beers and hearty Flemish comfort food. These spots are defined by their "old-world" charm, often featuring vintage decor, wooden beams, etc
La Fleur de Lille
Located on the historic Rue de Gand, this elegant restaurant offers creative French cuisine that puts a modern, "revisited" twist on traditional regional recipes. It is known for its warm, redesigned atmosphere and a commitment to "homemade" dishes crafted entirely from fresh, seasonal market products.
Le Barbue d’Anvers
This quintessential estaminet is tucked away in a 16th-century brick building, featuring a cozy, vintage interior filled with wood and curiosity-shop charm. It specializes in hearty Flemish soul food, serving up authentic classics like Maroilles cheese croquettes and carbonnade alongside an impressive selection of local artisan beers.
Lille’s food scene is a wonderful, butter-heavy intersection of French and Flemish cultures. If you’re heading there, you have to lean into the comfort food.
Here is a list of the absolute must-tries for la cuisine lilloise:
Savory Classics:
Le Welsh: The ultimate local soul food. It’s a thick layer of melted cheddar cheese boiled with beer and mustard, poured over a slice of bread and ham, then baked until bubbling. It’s almost always served with a side of fries and a fried egg on top.
Carbonnade Flamande: A rich beef stew similar to Boeuf Bourguignon, but the beef is slow-cooked in Flemish brown beer and sweetened with gingerbread and brown sugar.
Potjevleesch (or "Potch"): A traditional terrine made of four white meats: chicken, rabbit, pork, and veal that's held together in a lightly vinegared jelly. It’s served cold, typically with hot fries to create a temperature contrast.
La Tarte au Maroilles: A savory tart made with Maroilles, a famously pungent, orange-rind cheese from the region. While the cheese smells very strong, it becomes creamy and mellow when baked.
Moules-Frites: While common throughout France, mussels and fries are the unofficial anthem of Lille. I love getting them with Maroilles cheese in it.
For sweets:
Les Merveilleux de Fred: These are airy meringues coated in chocolate whipped cream and rolled in chocolate shavings. You can often see them being made in the window of their shop in Vieux Lille. They're all over the world now (well, in big big important cities).
La Tarte au Sucre: A "Sugar Pie" (that's not a tarte at all) that is actually a fluffy yeast-based brioche topped with plenty of butter and vergeoise (a local brown beet sugar).
Cramique: A thick, rich brioche loaf typically studded with large pearls of sugar or raisins—perfect for breakfast or a snack. Aux Merveillex de Fred has them and they are magnificent.
