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Lessons learned and new thoughts from 2 months in Bretagne

We spent 2 M in Bretagne, just NW of Quimper and 2 K from the Atlantic ocean. We needed a car, and our French friend helped get us a good deal from the local Super U supermarket chain.

1) French drivers are generally very polite. Very few "hot doggery" in France. Polite accommodation in tight village streets. Watch those "rond-points" though (roundabouts). Most are easy, but the high-traffic ones can be a little challenging.

2) The French idea of "ideal car separation" is 8M. Tail-gaiting is a national sport.

3) French are very sparing in condiments. No mustard on ham sandwiches. We took to carrying our own squeeze bottle of mustard.

4) Wine is very very inexpensive in France. Wonderful selection of all kinds of wine. Most supermarkets would have 200-300 bottles, 80% under 6E.

5) My wife loves sweet white wines. Our favorite - moulleaux. I also liked Entre 2 Mer. For reds, the wines of the Languedoc are my favorite.

6) The cidres of Bretagne are very nice.

7) Supermarkets are driving the village boulangerie/patisserie out of business. Towns often have 1, but used to have 2-3. The markets have 7-8 versions of pate. Bretagne butter is a wonder. You don't get strawberries in January, just in season. The rose onions of Roscoff were delightful.

8) We saw very few police in 2M. I was stopped once for a routine breathalizer. Other than that, no cops at all. We did our best to adhere to speed limits, but French drivers did not. HOWEVER, VERY IMPORTANT - on French roads, you see a "speed check" sign in many places. Be very good about the speed at that point - look for the speed camera. Don't ignore those signs!!

9) We enjoyed Bretagne. We loved the Dordogne. The villages around Carcassone are not interesting. No cafes, no brasseries, just houses.

10) We enjoyed the "enclose parishes" very much - churches with calvaires (outdoor stories of the life of Jesus), ossuaries, arches, walls, and the church. There are many in Bretagne.

11) The Grail church in the Foret de Brociliande was a great stop - Arthur legends with Christian and Pagan stuff.

12) The menhirs at Carnac were great.

Posted by
3596 posts

Thanks Paul for your trip report and insights. Sounds like you and Joy had a great trip!

Posted by
3377 posts

You're making me perk up with the mention of the butter, but tell us about the duck and goose products, too, svp!

You should also give us the latest news on armagnac and brandies and fortified wines that we won't find so easily outside of the region...

Posted by
2650 posts

Avi-

My own, limited, experience from a couple weeks over the past two years:

If you have a car, you'll have no trouble finding places that sell local pates, sausages, and honey, as well as small distilleries, but you have to drive the back roads. For me this was best between Cognac and Toulouse. For the apple products further north was better as I prefer those from Normandy, especially out on the Cotentin Peninsula. Fantastic ciders! And I found 40 year old Armagnac's in the wine shops in the cities.

Posted by
8787 posts

Paul, it sounds wonderful. The Carnac menhirs are great - they stretch back for a great distance, practically to a vanishing point..

I do wonder how many rear-ender accidents happen in France, or are French drivers genetically endowed with the ability to brake instantaneously?

Please say that you had Kouign-amman! All that butter hopes it will, one day, get baked into one.

Posted by
7896 posts

Thank you for the write-up! Sounds like a good time.
I have now learned that mustard in ham sandwiches was a thing? Thought it was mostly for hot dogs 😅.

By the way, regarding sweet white wines: "moelleux" [mo-eh-luh] is just the generic French term for a sweet white wine, not a specific kind.

Posted by
11771 posts

Thank you Paul. You learned so much, and it's great that you had enough time to live like a local. You may be the first person here to ever mention Roscoff onions. Brittany, as a Celtic and prehistoric stronghold has a bit of an aura for the supernatural and mysterious in our imaginations. Maybe that explains why 80% of the wines offered are under 6 euros whereas where I live, it's only the bottom shelves of the displays. Hurry up and come back.

Posted by
3250 posts

As to the request from my friend Mr. E to "copy my style", I am pleased that you find it helpful. Please use whatever I present as you will.

We did have the koign amann at least 1 time.

The meaning of the "moelleux" (thanks for spelling correction) was explained to us. We purchased a lot of bottles of this style. The best, when cold, are like other sweet wines - honey on the palate. Thus far, we have had no luck finding such wines in the US. The culture of "dry" wines is strong here. Reisling, a grape which can benefit from a little residual sugar, is routinely produced as dry as possible, and it's not much different from chardonnay on the palate. The reisling character is enhanced by a little sweetness.

As to the menhirs in the great field of Carnac, we were fortunate to get there in late March. The trimming of grass is done by sheep. We found a large flock of sheep with many little lambs. How much more spring-like can you get? So very cute.

Posted by
3250 posts

As to the armanac and other fortified wines and distilled products, I am very fond of both calvados (more of Normandy) and armanac (far superior IMHO than cognac). In Bretagne, many of the cideries produce a distilled product. Some are more of an apertif style - 20% alcohol. Some were quite strong - at least one was terrible and the most expensive. We did enjoy that.

Posted by
17051 posts

Oh Paul! What a great time you guys had!

I hope you tasted the Pommeau at some of the cideries! I'm not much of a drinker but I liked that a LOT! Plus just the plain apple juice from the area is delicious!

The Neolithic sites in Brittany are just awesome. Glad you enjoyed!

Thanks for taking the time to post!