Please sign in to post.

Les Batignolles and the 17e

Bonjour vous tous,

In my "old age" I like to visit parts of Paris that are a little more residential when I visit. In summer 2021 (I pray pray pray) I hope to be staying in the 17th. Do any of you have any recommendations ? Pros? Cons? Thanks in advance.

Posted by
1027 posts

One of Rick's guides, Vero, has recently moved to the 17th and is doing some live-streamed walks in her new 'hood since she's restricted to a 1 kilometer radius.
You can find her on Facebook and YouTube under "France with Vero."
If you like what she offers you can support her on Patreon and get even more content.
Check her out -- she's wonderfu!

Posted by
2588 posts

Hi Alexander,

Do you mean recommendations for restaurants or accommodations? Or things to do? Or all of the above? I almost bought an apartment on Rue Dulong in 2016 and loved how quiet the area is. I think you will enjoy the 17th as long as you realize that there is zero tourist stuff to do there. If you are looking for a hotel, take a look at Hotel de Banville. Another one I can suggest is B Montmartre although unlike Banville, I have only walked through it but have not stayed there.

Posted by
7895 posts

I immediately thought of the same resource as SharYn so I'll second Vero! You can also scroll back thru her FB page for photo stories.

Posted by
1444 posts

I'll third the Vero referral for great video strolls in the 17th, but note that Vero has hopped over to the left bank for next couple of weeks. See her recent Parc Monceau walk, though.
For accommodation, take a look at the Edmond (with a name that echoes the RS HQ, how can you not have a look?)

https://www.edmond-hotel.fr/en/welcome-desk/

Posted by
1027 posts

Avi, that is outdated information.
Vero was staying in the Latin Quarter for a few weeks in an apartment owned by friends who couldn't be there themselves.
She is now firmly in the 17th for the foreseeable future and is "taking us along" as she explores her new area.

Posted by
1444 posts

OK, SharYn - I must have it backwards. What did you think of her walk in the Montmartre cemetery?
It made me want to pour out a tiny glass of absinthe as part of an elaborate cosplay, and I don't do any cosplaying :)

Posted by
878 posts

Thank you all so much! In terms of advice---I especially am interested in restaurants, shops, etc. I have been to Paris many, many times and have done the bulk of the tourist must-see things. So now I am at a stage where I just want to enjoy the little things. Amazing how big the little things are.

Posted by
878 posts

Merci, JHK! As I was scrolling around the neighbordhood of my hotel I came by that one and loved the name. We wil definitely try it! Thanks!

Posted by
5789 posts

WE have spent several months in the 17th a month or two at a time in apartments and love this area -- when we have a choice this is where we stay, particularly because there is absolutely nothing of tourist interest there. Nice markets, lovely parks and no major sights. It is not a good base for touristing -- getting from there to central sites is tortuous and time consuming but being there is great.

Posted by
1 posts

Bonjour Alexander,

I just happened to notice your question and followed this comment thread. I am a Paris-based Rick Steves tour guide and live in the 17th arrondissement. Several travelers have been kind enough to share my work as a content creator, ("France with Véro") above.

Like several people have mentioned, the 17th arrondissement is not a touristy area. It has no major landmarks. That's actually great news, because it's a fantastic place to enjoy authentic Parisian life away from crowds ;-) My two favorite corners of the 17th arrondissement are: 1. The gentrified Batignolles area (a former working class village outside Paris.) Perks include the pretty square des Batignolles, a brand-new park (Martin Luther King park,) two fantastic markets (including a covered one opened all week,) and many food specialty shops There are so many restaurants in the neighborhood you will not know where to have dinner. ;-) My favorite place (if you like meat) is "Gaston." 2. The area near Metro "Villiers" and the bustling market street, rue de Lévis. You can't go wrong there. That section is a bit more convenient by Metro (Lines 2 and 3) to head to other sections of Paris than les Batignolles, in my opinion, even if they are only 10 minutes apart.

If you are looking to kick back and enjoy Parisian life, the 17th arrondissement is an excellent choice.

Even if you know Paris well, you may be interested in knowing there are a lot of lesser-told stories to discover in the 17th arrondissement. I suggest you watch the two virtual tours I recently guided in the area. :-) Links are below.

Happy trip planning and Happy Holidays!
Veronique ("Vero")

Stroll in la Plaine Monceau, 17th arr. (Part 1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRkPLW5JcMc&t=11s
La Plaine Monceau, 17th arr. (Part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRkPLW5JcMc&t=11s

Posted by
878 posts

Merci mille fois, Véro! Je dois vous dire que je suis vraiment fan de vos vidéos. Vous m’avez fait sourire tant de fois pendant cette crise sanitaire!

Posted by
7895 posts

Oh gosh....have been "walking" with Vero on the Champs-Elysees this morning looking at the lights and boom...there she is on the RS forum!

I second Alexander's last comment!

Posted by
1578 posts

hey hey alexander
remember someone asking about the 17th and found you.
you may be interested in looking at alcoves&agapes.com
click promotions in blue left side, picture with green grass and walkway.
"marc greets you" has a small apartment with kitchen and garden. hope this is something up your alley.
aloha

Posted by
5789 posts

Our favorite cafe is Petit Canon -- food is average Paris cafe food -- good but not gourmet although they had a nice cheese tray, but it has a lovely vibe, a zinc bar, a huge array of different interesting wines by the glass -- just a fun evening. This is a very old post but there are pictures of it at the start. https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/06/09/dining-out-three-experiences/
The second restaurant in the post is apparently still in business although we haven't eaten there in a few years; alas Cottage Marcadet where we had many lovely meals is no more.