My husband has to be in London on business in a couple of weeks and we've decided to go early and spend 4 days in Normandy after landing at Gatwick. MSM and Etretat are at the top of our list. I would be grateful for recommendations on the merits of one ferry route vs another: Portsmouth to St Malo and work our way west to east? Portsmouth to Caen with a couple of days west and a couple east? Is there a surcharge is a car is rented in one town and returned in another? Thanks for your help.
Posted by
Wyckoff, NJ, USA
7889 posts
Do you know how long those boats take (connections included), and how rough the crossing can be?! I haven't done it, but my wife says she'll never do it again. Some of the ferry routes might not take pedestrians, I don't know. I urge you to see something in Northern England, Wales, or Scotland instead. These two destinations do not pair well. We saw ferries unloading in St. Malo, but I consider it a transit mode whose time has passed.
Posted by
Washington DC
28096 posts
I've been booked on five Channel ferries over the course of two trips (most recently in 2017). Two of the five ferries were canceled, one of them 3 days running. I ended up flying from Jersey (Channel Islands) to London-Luton on EasyJet to keep my trip on track. So you need to be aware there is at least a slight possibility a ferry you intend to take may not actually run. Both of my trips were between May and August, so it's not like winter weather was a factor.
Posted by
Northamptonshire, England
33848 posts
Do you want to hire a car in England and drop it off in France?
Are you aware of the Brexit problems in France causing delays and cancellations to trains through the Channel Tunnel and the ferries?
Have you seen this thread in the Transportation Forum? https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/transportation/eurostar-delays-march-2019
I don't know when that will all end.
Posted by
Rick Steves' Europe
16895 posts
There is normally no charge, or not significant, for renting and returning a car in different cities of France. I usually search prices through AutoEurope.com, a US consolidator.
Posted by
Middletown, RI
1229 posts
I once booked a ferry from Poole, UK to Cherbourg, France. When I got there, I learned that the French fishermen were protesting something or another, and the Cherbourg port was blockaded (I had no cell phone, and apparently they had tried calling my home phone in the U.S. The ferry company put me and my travelling companion in a cab from Poole to Portsmouth (£€$!), where they had re-booked me on a ferry from there to Caen. This summer I have to get from Normandy to North of London, and am still debating whether to book the ferry with the risk of it cancelling (I have to get there in a 24 hour window). If I do go the ferry route, I think I'll buy a full-fare (i.e., refundable) Eurostar ticket—so in case there are ferry troubles, I'll at least have an option to get to the UK that day.
Posted by
59 posts
We took the ferry awhile back and had no problems except that the car rental employees in France were on their 2-hour lunch. Stayed in folkstone
Posted by
OP
Dedham, MA
2 posts
Appreciate your comments. Am aware of which ferries accept foot passengers (all that I researched), length of trips, French custom officials’ “industrial action,” etc. We love boats and honestly have had more problems with planes over the years. Of course, we learned long ago to surrender to the travel gods, expect some things will go wrong but try to view it all as part of the adventure.
Will also add that there are sentimental reasons for the side trip: my 104-year-old, WWII veteran great-uncle recently passed away. Despite being unable to swim, he survived the torpedoing of the SS Leopoldville off Cherbourg, on Christmas Eve, no less. Quite a guy.
Posted by
Middletown, RI
1229 posts
Total respect for your great-uncle. Those that fought for the allies during the battle for Normandy were why I initially wanted to take a ferry to Cherbourg. I eventually ended up getting to Cherbourg and taking a train to Paris on a trip several years ago, and havce returned to Normandy many times since. Go where your heart and your heritage brings you. As long as you understand the variabilities of the ferries, that sounds like a wonderful trip. If you are trying to get closer to the activities of D-day and its aftermath, my vote would be for a ferry to Caen or Cherbourg rather than St. Malo.
Posted by
Guernsey
741 posts
last summer took 3 boats to France, no delays, no problem. Tried to fly to the UK twice, delayed or cancelled both times due to weather. Its the luck of the draw. Personally dislike big hub airports so will always take the boat if I have the option, a lot more civilized and relaxed way to travel! Traveling from the Channel Islands and will be getting on Condor again in 10 days heading to beautiful St Malo, cant wait ;-)