We returned from our trip to France this week. We stayed 4 days in Paris and 4 days in Burgundy. High-level information that might be helpful:
We did receive our pass sanitaire a few days before the trip. I'd say no more than 25% of the places we visited asked to see it (institutions like museums, and smaller restaurants seemed to be the places requiring it). We didn't try showing our vaccine cards, but some Danish people behind us in line showed their vaccine cards and at a bar and they were accepted. We were not asked for the pass on any SNCF trains. Everyone seemed eager to have patrons and were especially accommodating.
We got our covid tests 72 hours before our flight back to the U.S. There are pharmacies everywhere (we got our test in Beaune), as well as tents throughout Paris for 25-30 Euro. The process took less than an hour - they printed off a paper for our flight (and sent us a text with the results) and knew exactly what we needed.
For the most part, everything was more "normal" than expected. It was so wonderful to be back in France. There were MUCH fewer tourists (we hardly saw any other Americans) which made going to museums and restaurants much easier than normal. We had a few reservations for restaurants but didn't need reservations for museums and most restaurants.
I DEFINITELY recommend getting to CDG as early as possible. We waited in line to check in/drop off bags for an hour and then waited in the customs line to get to our gate for almost three hours. We still had to go through security after that. Many shops/restaurants in the airport are closed. However, arrival at CDG couldn't have been easier - there were literally no people in line for customs.
-There were a lot of places to sit outside and eat. We did a lot of walking and biking so we didn't need to spend much time on public transit with the exception of getting to the airport and train station. Everyone wears masks (no cloth maks). This is the most traveling/eating out we've done during the pandemic which is inherently nerve-wracking, but for the most part, we felt very safe and that people were taking it seriously (especially compared to some places in the U.S).