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Itinerary Review for Paris April 2017

Some of you wonderful Forum members may recall helping me with trips to Spain-Portugal and Italy. Now I am seeking your review and guidance for the upcoming trip my 10 yo granddaughter and I are taking to Paris in the early part of April 2017. We both love art, entertainment and delicious food; I love architecture. She is a girly girl and I am, not so much. But we both like outdoor adventures as well as hunkering down for some chill time in a nice cafe. I would like to give my granddaughter a taste of France with an emphasis on the great art and culture that the country, and in particular, Paris may provide. At the same time, I want her to have fun and enjoy some activities that a girl her age would. I plan on getting the 4 day Paris Museum Pass and the 2 day Batobus Pass. I have been to Paris for a very brief stay at the end of an Italy trip (2012) and enjoyed some sights then: Musee d'Orsay, St. Chappelle and Notre Dame. We are staying in the 6th - not far from Sorbonne. Trying to see as many sights covered by the Museum Pass, but don't want an overload for my granddaughter. Would love your suggestions on the itinerary and ideas of what books/movies I can read/view with granddaughter before the trip. Here is what I am thinking for our itinerary (4/8 to 4/15):

4/8: Arrival Day Paris: from Seattle-London arrive about 2pm & check into hotel; Jardine de Luxembourge: take in a Marionette show and/or sail a boat; RS Historic Paris Walk; early dinner

4/9: NOTE: Paris Marathon is this morning – trying to avoid crowds
(Paris Museum Pass first day)
Isle de la Cite & Notre Dame: possibly climb the tower
St. Chappelle (if the sunlight is good); optional if not
Musee D’Orsay

4/10: Batobus on the Seine to some of our destinations;
Musee Louvre;
Tuilleries Garden: picnic lunch and Carrousel ride
Eiffel Tower at twilight

4/11: City Bicycle Tour with FatTire (possible)
Musee Rodin and gardens
Arc de Triomple – climb the stairs
Palais Garnier (possibly) OR Musee Orangerie

4/12: Versailles
(Paris Museum Pass last day)

4/13: Centre Pompidou (pass expires – need to purchase)
Musee Orangerie if we didn’t see it on 4/11

4/14: Montmarte & Sacre Coure (possibly) – might just use this day to chill
Galleries Lafayette – fashion show @ 3 pm
St. Sulspice Church for organ concert (possibly)

4/15: Early flight from Orly Airport back to Seattle via London

Posted by
15784 posts

Batobus - I would not do that. It's a slow way to get around. Better to just take a one-hour Seine cruise - best time is around sunset. The metro will be faster. It's probably going to be economical to get the Navigo pass. That will give you unlimited travel on the metro and buses from Monday morning (10th) until you leave . . . .5 full days.

9th (Sunday) - If you want to climb the tower, it's best to get there early and line up. It's not unusual to wait in line for an hour or more. Last year I was there on the day of the marathon a little before 10 am (when most sights open), and there were no noticeable crowds for the marathon - the runners were below the bridges, running along the banks of the Seine. There are often free organ recitals at Notre Dame in the afternoon (4.30 I think). Be there about 1/2 hour early to get seats. It's a special experience.

10th - not sure why you want the Eiffel Tower at twilight - to watch as it lights up? Sunset's around 8.45, it begins to light up about 15-20 minutes after that, then twinkles on the hour - so the first "twinkling" will be at 10 p.m. Are you planning to go up it or just near it? Fat Tire tours are excellent. They are near the Tower, so you may want to combine the tour with the Tower visit. Speaking of bikes - the best way to get around Versailles is to rent bikes, otherwise it's hours of walking. You can also rent bikes to ride around the Bois du Boulogne.

11th - The Palais Garnier is not covered by the Pass. Do it later in the week, like the 14th, since it's near the Galleries Lafayette.

13th - a block or two from the Pompidou Centre is the Musée de la Poupée - very girly. I think you'll both enjoy it. There are usually street entertainers in the plaza at the Pompidou around lunchtime. There's really nothing much to see inside except the Modern Art Museum, if you are so inclined.

Posted by
2466 posts

Are you arriving from Seattle, then taking Eurostar directly to Paris - or will you have spent time in London? If the former, both of you could be a little tired and might want to play it by ear. If you haven't already booked the RS tour for today, you might think about changing it. Getting settled, wandering around the park and getting something to eat would probably be enough. Le Rostand is a lovely old tea room near the entrance of the park.

If your granddaughter will be 10 years old in 2017, she won't need to pay for Metro or Bus transport.
I agree that the Batobus is a very slow method of getting around, and it might be boring to use this as your sole means of transport - if you happen to miss the boat, you'll spend a lot of time waiting around. A HOHO bus might be an idea, just for one day.

If your granddaughter can stay awake until 10 PM, taking a Seine cruise is a great idea - the river and monuments are beautifully illuminated and it's something that she won't forget. You can purchase tickets online and if you go at 9:30PM, you should reach the Eiffel Tower when it "sparkles" for 5 minutes.

This isn't meant as criticism, but your itinerary seems awfully museum-heavy and sounds more "adult", than geared for a 10 year old, unless she's seriously interested in art. You might think about asking your granddaughter for more of her input - she might want to do other things that are more age-related.

Unless you are really interested in Monet's "Waterlilies", I'd skip L'Orangerie. Unless there is something in particular you want to see at Centre Pompidou, I'd just take a ride up the escalator and take in the view from the top floor. I think the Musee d'Orsay is a better choice over either of these. Versailles will take up at least 8 hours, including transportation.

The weather in April might not be appropriate for a picnic, so I'd think about a Plan B. There is no shelter in the Tuileries, if it rains or is chilly.

Here's the route of the Paris Marathon - it's really pretty easy to avoid the route and crowds. Most of the "crowd" is actually running, there aren't too many who watch the race.
http://www.evous.fr/Marathon-de-Paris-Le-parcours-officiel,1188991.html

"The Red Balloon" is a charming film, though it's set in post-war France.

Posted by
2466 posts

Just a thought about FatBike Tours - if you can find one that is more geared for children, and can provide kid-sized bikes, that would be best. The tours for adult groups are long and go faster than most 10 year old kids could manage. Many of the routes have to pass through some pretty heavy traffic, since the bike lanes are not yet all connected - it's pretty hairy for an adult.

Posted by
178 posts

No matter how seasoned a traveller one is, your first day schedule is really ambitious,taking into account jet lag. As others have said,I think you need something a little more time spent on fun things.

Posted by
1420 posts

Chani, Chexbres and Carol: Thank you for your ideas, tips and wonderful suggestions. Yes, we are arriving from Heathrow airport - no Eurostar.

I was thinking the itinerary was a bit heavily laden with museums and maybe not ones my granddaughter would fully appreciate. For the Louvre and L'Orangerie, we were only going to hit the highlights and I believe she would enjoy the d'Orsay much more because of the clock and the fact that it was an old train station. For the Rodin, we may just view the sculptures in the garden. Centre Pompidou, I think we will just ride the elevator, see the view and admire the modern art/architecture on the outside. The modern architecture is a nice contrast to the other buildings around Paris and she would appreciate seeing a place with lots of color.

As far as riding on the Batobus versus taking a Seine river cruise on one of the other boats, I was trying to cut the cost of a cruise by riding the Batobus. Maybe we wouldn't get a two day pass and instead of using it as transportation (since you reminded me that it is quite slow), maybe we will just ride it to the Eiffel Tower in the early evening. I would think that in April the sun would be setting earlier than was mentioned. Am I mistaken? Here in Seattle, the sun sets in April around 7:30-8, I think. So, we could time our visit in the early evening as granddaughter may not be able to stay up until after 9:30-10. Obviously, I have to ponder this one for a bit.

Thanks for Le Rostand tea room suggestion and for the reminder about The Red Balloon. I very much enjoyed that movie and will watch it with granddaughter. We may watch Hugo too. Maybe I can find a book written for children on the story of the Hunchback of Notre Dame? suggestions?

Also, a good idea about setting up a children's tour if we do the Fat Tire bicycles and I am going to do a little research on Musee de la Poupee. Granddaughter not too interested in dolls though. Also, I like the idea of an organ recital at Notre Dame. Granddaughter's third year in the Seattle Girls Choir, so I believe she would appreciate the accoustics of a cathedral.

What other ideas do you have for places my granddaughter might enjoy. What about La Citedes Sciences de L'Industries and Parc de la Villette? I have seen some mixed reviews for the science museum but great reviews for the Parc. Any suggestions for a perfumerie or perfume museum? She likes to mix her own aromatherapy to come up with scents she thinks others might like.

I love the suggestion of going to Palais Garnier on the 14th since it is near Galleries Lafayette. We will probably not go to Montmarte.

Again, thank you for the guidance and would love some more suggestions of fun places to visit - even if it is just for some lay back/chill time.

Linda

Granted I was 18 not 10 my first trip to Paris & very much into art & architecture, but I loved Musée d'Orsay, Rodin, & if there's not a long line it's worth popping in for a few minutes to see the Orangerie if you are already in the area. But personally I would highly recommend Giverny (Monet's house & gardens, including THE waterlillies) as an excursion trip- its a break from traditional museums & the scenery is just gorgeous! Plus it's nice to get into the countryside/out of the city. If you have time the castles are extremely cool (we went to the Loire but I've heard good things about Fontainebleau (sp??) which is closer & even my little brother enjoyed the castles. Definitely a cool break from museums! Maybe I'm just a big troglodyte but after about 30 min in the Louvre I couldn't take any more portraits of rich people, hunting scenes, or ancient artifacts, however there was a part opened I didn't know about before- there are ruins/remains of the dungeon below the castle that became the palace that became the Louvre- we enjoyed that more than a lot of the fine art 😳 For things a 10 y/o might like, hit La Durée for some gorgeous macarons, & I'm a big fan of strolling along the Champs Ulysses while popping into stores/patisseries, grab a crepe or gelato, people watch (including street performers if your timing is right), etc. And don't forget the parks- Paris has some amazing parks. Hubby and I really enjoyed both Tuileries & especially the Luxembourg gardens, as a teen both little brother & I have very fond memories enjoying the parks & fountains. Watch the old men play chess or pétanque over an ice cream, and rest while soaking it in. Also, I enjoyed going up the Eiffel Tower more during the day so you can really enjoy the views. Maybe just me but I found it a little harder to see at twilight. Definitely look up at it after dark though, a must see show stopper! That's my 2 cents :) Oh! And definitely watch Phantom of the Opera w her before you go, & Midnight in Paris. Quite the mood setters!!

Posted by
15784 posts

With regard to sunrise/sunset, it could have as much to do with how far east/west within the time zone each city is. Today sunrise in Paris was at 7.55 and sunset's at 7.23. In Seattle, 7.13 and 6.41. I use this website for planning all my trips.

I've never priced the Batobus. I have used Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf for cruising and recommended them to friends. You can buy "anytime" tickets online in advance and save a few euros.

Good idea to skip Montmartre. Fat Tire tours - contact them and ask. They accept kids on their tours, so they must have bikes and helmets in appropriate sizes and I can't imagine a guide not taking into account the ability of all the participants or not making sure everyone was safe at all times.

Fragonard has severval perfume "museums" in Paris. The website is only in French. I went to the one in rue Scribe near the Opera and just a few doors down from my favorite macaron shop, Pierre Marcolini. It has 18th-19th c. equipment and other items related to perfume. It's usually a guided tour (in French, I guess) but you can wander on your own - not much in the way of explanations and what there is, is in French. The staff speak English, so maybe if you contact them in advance they will give you a guided tour. Their Théâtre-Musée des Capucines sounds more interesting, from the website description, on 39 blvd du Capucines.

Posted by
2466 posts

The Batobus ends service at 9:30, and it will get dark in Paris just after that time. Because you can sit up much higher on the top level of the cruise boat - the Batobus is only at river level, like being in a ditch - your granddaughter could see much more from that vantage point. Have her take a little nap and promise her something magical, have hot chocolate afterwards and talk about what she saw.

Here's a place where you could give her a whole day of kid's activities - poney rides, marionettes, carnival rides, gardens, etc - open every day and it's easy to get to:
http://www.jardindacclimatation.fr/information.php

Le Jardin des Plantes might be an idea, if she is into dinosaurs.
Palace de la Decouverte is in a beautiful building, and has loads of kid-oriented expos all during the year: http://www.palais-decouverte.fr/fr/au-programme/activites/les-exposes/
I just checked the prices of "ateliers de parfum" - not sure you want to spend that much for a 10 year old...

Disney has good comic books and an animated film devoted to "The Hunchback of Notre Dame".

Posted by
489 posts

Congrats for giving your granddaughter this experience. I'm researching itineraries for Paris now, but taking my 67 yr old husband (his first time)
If she is girly girl then just finding a great shopping street would be fun for her. If she would like to do something she can tell her friends back home about (my grandmother took me ....) how about a sewer tour?

We traveled all over Asia with our children and you never know their moods or interests. After 4 days in Paris, she may want to try out a McDonalds... again something she'll tell her friends about.
I'm sure she will have her phone with camera, that always keeps them happy. If any of the art museums have a tour for children, then go with that as the docents are trained and can bring out great thoughts.

Posted by
1420 posts

Thanks everyone for the tips and tricks. I have since looked up the Seine cruise suggested and will probably do that instead of the Batobus. My daughter did point out that granddaughter gets motion sickness on occasion so will be aware of that. I will rework the itinerary and re-post. The book, movie and park recommendations are much appreciated.

Linda

Posted by
2466 posts

Linda - there is no wave action on the Seine, so she probably will not get motion-sickness. The boats are heavy enough that she won't feel anything but forward motion, like riding a bike. I'd recommend sitting up on the top level, on the railing - for best views and fresh air. FYI, there's a small snack bar on the dock, just before you board the boat.

Here's something that kids seem to enjoy at the Louvre:
http://thatlou.com/

Posted by
1420 posts

Back with a somewhat revised itinerary for one week in Paris. My GD and I will plan on enjoying the views from the bridges, an open market or two, sitting at cafes and people watch, shopping, and hopefully a picnic or two. The only day trip is Versailles. I will get a 4 day museum pass for myself and probably use carnets for our transportation; Les Cars bus from CDG on arrival and early morning taxi to Orly airport outbound. We are staying in the 6th AR near Jardine de Luxembourg. We plan on really enjoying the outdoor spaces Paris has to offer, weather somewhat dependent.

Day 1-Sat: arrival afternoon; Jardine de Luxembourg, sail a boat

Day 2-Sun: Isle de la Cite, Notre Dame climb, possible St. Sulspice mass, or St Chappelle, D'Orsay

Day 3-Mon: Louvre highlights, Tuilleries Garden, puppet show/picnic/carousel, Eiffel Tower (will reserve)

Day 4-Tue: Rodin gardens, open market shopping, Arc de Triomphe climb, perfume museum (maybe)

Day 5-Wed: Versailles, rent bikes

Day 6-Thurs: Center Pompidou outside and elevator only, possibly Orangerie, cruise on Seine

Day 7-Fri: Palais Garnier tour (maybe), Galleries Lafayette shopping and fashion show, dinner at Printemps

Day 8-Sat: early flight to Seattle - Orly

I travel with the notion that there will probably be changes in "the plan" as I go. Flexibility is key. However, I recognize there are several museums/sights that will have to be reserved ahead. What do you think of the revised itinerary?

GD and I enjoy eating out, but also love to just pick up a quick pizza slice, cheese sandwich, crepe. GD has quite an International palate and will eat almost anything. Loves veggies (has her own garden). She probably will not try escargot or onion soup, but would like other French dishes along with Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Italian, German food; anything really. Looking for some suggestions for your favorite eateries.

Thanks again for your advice.

Linda

Posted by
2734 posts

I think you have a splendid trip planned. La Cuissine de Philippe is near your hotel and is a soufflé restaurant. It is right next to the Hotel Luxemborg Parc and we loved it (savory and sweet). Don't forget to treat precious granddaughter to some macaroons. Much debate about who's are best but we favor http://www.pierreherme.com. Orangerie- we took our daughter when she was younger (older than 10 but not much) and it is the one museum she insists on returning to when we visit Paris. The Nymphea are not to be missed and she will become a Monet fan before your eyes. Have fun!

Posted by
5697 posts

When you're at Galleries Lafayette, take the elevator to the free observation deck for another great view of Paris.

Posted by
15784 posts

I will just reiteratre that the doll museum is only a block or two from the Centre Pompidou and quite charming, though small, with many dolls, but lots of other toys too.

Posted by
1420 posts

Wow, some great recommendations here. La Cuissine de Philippe for a souffle will be right up our alley; oh, GD and I are s bit familiar with macaroons since we visit a top notch French bakery in West Seattle called Bakery Nouveau.. she is partial to the chocolate croissant. We definitely will be having a hard time choosing the goodies on a daily basis while in Paris.

Thank you also for the confirmation about the doll museum - we may pop in since are planning the Centre Pompidou. Oh, and I heard that the view from Galleries Lafayette is fabulous. We will have to make time for that ...

Hmm.... now I will have to brush up on my French and get in shape for all the walking I am going to be doing.

Linda

Posted by
650 posts

For museums, I think the D'Orsay and the Rodan are great choices. Consider the Cluney too. A girly girl might like the unicorn tapestries a lot. If you visit the Pompedou stop to see the surrealists. Do climb Notre Dame and the Sacre Coeur, and add the Arch D'Triumph. I never met a child who didn't like to climb up to look down. Underground things also appeal to ten year olds. Consider the Archeological Crypt. I suspect Marie Antoinette would appeal to your grand daughter. Visit the Conserge after San Chapelle. Eat like a child. Pastry shops, chocolate shops, cheese samplers, and ice cream parlors (even in April) are all bound to please. If she likes cooking, consider slowing down and taking a class together.

Posted by
2466 posts

I'm questioning "dinner at Printemps".
Just across the street, at Galeries Lafayette Gourmet, you can have a large choice of good things to eat in two food courts:
The first floor has Petrossian saumon et caviar and Italian, Greek and Asian sit-down counters. Take out pastries, ice cream and chocolats.
Downstairs is more interesting, with a steak place (chicken, burgers and other meats, too), an eat-in cheese counter, an American salad/sandwich place and more Asian and Italian counters.
Just a thought.