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Itinerary Advice for a family

Hi there -
I'm looking to plan twenty days in July with my wife and precocious 7 year old. We have both spent time in Paris (I myself a lot, years ago I was an intern in Paris for a year). My french is competent. We have never really seen the rest of the country however.

We'll be starting in Paris and flying home from there. Is it reasonable with 20 days to make it all the way down to Aix an the Mediterranean coast? Should we fly down and return to Paris slowly? What would be our must-see stops? We are interested in food and culture, playgrounds and museums (where kid friendly).

Alternatively we could visit Brittany, but I've been warned it could be rainy in July. Would the north west of France however be cooler that time of year?

  • Unsure where to start!
Posted by
682 posts

Here are some itineraries that I did with my family, first one is when the kids were 5 and 9. The next one was 7 and 11 and the last was 11 and 15. Perhaps they will help as you craft a 20 day plan.

Land cdg and train directly to Tours
2 nights Loire valley
7 nights dordogne
7 nights Provence
5 nights alps
Fly home Geneva

Land cdg and train directly to Tours
2 nights Loire
6 nights Brittany
6 nights dordogne
1 night Foix
6 nights collioure
2 nights Paris

Land orly, drive to Chartres
1 night Chartres
6 nights Normandy
7 nights burgundy
5 nights Alsace
2 nights paris

Kids really liked the caves and the alps. Also swimming, Aqualand and EuropaPark. Kids favorite museums were ones that were focused on one thing like the Orangerie in Paris and the Louis Pasteur museum near burgundy. My Kids were not fans of Roman ruins. The #1 attraction for all of us was the grotte de niaux near Foix.

Posted by
28505 posts

Yes, Normandy and Brittany tend to be cool and overcast even in mid-summer. There might be the occasional hot spell, but unbearable heat isn't likely to be a long-lasting phenomenon there. For a July trip, I think time in those two regions is a brilliant idea. Yes, there may well be occasional rain, but you will very much appreciate the temperatures. Since I think you'll be more rain-tolerant after the (likely) heat to the south has wiped you out for a while, I'd try not to make Normandy/Brittany my first stop.

The TGVs (fast trains) in France tend to fan out from Paris. You can get all the way to Avignon in about 3 hours, Aix in less than 3-1/2 hours, and Bordeaux in less than 4 hours. Nice doesn't have TGV service, so that trip from Paris takes considerably longer. For the faster-to-reach destinations, flying isn't advantageous unless you can book a multi-city trip that takes you right to a southern destination as part of your transatlantic ticket (perhaps returning home from Paris). That worked for me in 2017, when I wanted to start my trip in Nice.

Something to keep in mind about the French rail infrastructure: It's easier to travel roughly north to south (or vice versa) near the eastern or western edges of the country than to cross the country from east to west or v.v. You can burn a lot of time with the latter, so try not to do that repeatedly. Also, you may find yourself needing to change trains in Paris on trips that don't--from a map--seem to require you to visit that city. That's the lines fanning out from Paris bit. If that proves necessary, pay attention to the details, because you may well have to change stations in Paris. It's not the end of the world, but it's annoying, especially if you are burdened with much luggage and a 7-year-old. Be sure you choose a departure with a transfer time that allows you to get to the new station by Metro, RER, bus, taxi or foot.

I have no children, so I'm not the one to suggest child-friendly activities. I'd just say to read hotel/lodging reviews carefully to be sure people don't complain about the quality of the air conditioning.

Posted by
203 posts

I second the suggestion that you think about spending a chunk of time in Normandy/Brittany. Often July is hot in France, and be aware that many places do not have AC (or if they do, it doesn't work very well). Also, Paris and many of the other popular spots may be very crowded with tourists. So I think a trip to the west coast is a good idea. We stayed in Bayeux, which we found to be a charming city. It has the Bayeux Tapestry, which might interest your daughter. It is also a good place to launch a visit to the Normandy beaches and the American Cemetery, if you and your family are interested in that history. And of course there are lots of cheeses and ciders to be sampled in the area. Good luck. We found that a Chaco-Taco helped placate our youngest child when we visited France many years ago. Peter

Posted by
507 posts

Thanks to those who replied. I will revisit the Brittany and Normandy idea, which was actually where I started this whole adventure in my mind before getting distracted with other ideas...

Posted by
507 posts

It seems there is an embarrassment of lovely towns and small cities to explore west of Paris and right now I'm leaning towards an itinerary that may include:

Rennes
Caens
Rouen
Quimper
Brest

Is one of them a particularly good spot for settling down into a week or so long-term rental? Is there anything I'm missing? I still have a lot of reading to do.

Thanks

Posted by
6677 posts

I think Brittany is a great choice for a family. It is quite big and you may do better with two bases. Quimper would be a nice base with many day trip options. You could go to Locranan, a very atmospheric town and nearby Douarnenez, a lovely beach. An additional possibility for a base would be Saint Malo/Dinan/Dinard area. We loved the beach town, retro vibe of Dinard and took day trips to Dinan and Saint Malo.

If you want to stay in Normandy. I'd recommend Aromanches or Bayeux. Caen has a large WW2 museum, but the other two cities are more interesting. Aromanches has a lovely beach and small, but quite interesting WW2 museum.

Posted by
1542 posts

Jtraveler,
While in Bruttany, find a way to go to Carnac to see the dolmens. Your 7 year old will find themascinating, as will you. Perhaps on the way out of Brittany if not a long-ish day trip from Quimper. I can't imagine visiting Brittany without seeing them.

Posted by
28505 posts

I liked all of Rennes, Rouen and Quimper. I haven't been to Brest. I wouldn't recommend Caen for a long stay. The city was nearly flattened during WWII. It does have an historical museum that covers the lead-up period to WWII, the war itself and the Cold War. I liked it and spent virtually the entire day there. However, I'm very interested in that period, and you'll find a lot of negative feedback on this forum from folks who found the museum too large/expensive/crowded to be worthwhile. Otherwise, there are a few historic buildings that survived the bombardment of Caen, but the city overall lacks the charm you'll find in so many other French cities. Nearby Bayeux is a lot more visually appealing. Though small, it has numerous points of interest: the historic center, cathedral, Bayeux tapestry and a good, reasonable-size invasion museum. The commercial D-Day tours mostly originate from Bayeux, so there is considerable demand for lodging there, making this perhaps not an economically smart choice if you are not, in fact, planning to take one of the tours.

Posted by
507 posts

This is shaping up nicely, thanks to all your help.

Right now considering:
Fly Paris, then train immediately to Rennes
Air BnB or 1week rental in Rennes, side trip to St Malo, other side trips (?)
Then a week or so in Quimper or Brest
Then head to paris for a week before return to the airport.

Is it too much time to sit around in Brittany / Normandy? Will we get bored?

PS NB Yes, I'm interested in WW2 history, but our 7 year old is not. No plans to visit the Normandy sites. Maybe we could go and see the beaches at least.

Posted by
28505 posts

Possible side trips from Rennes:

St.Malo/Dinard
Dinan
Fougeres
Vitre
Mont-St.-Michel

St.-Malo and Mont-St.-Michel should be expected to be very, very busy. I haven't been to MSM, but I think the usual recommendation is to visit it late in the day, as others are leaving, if you don't stay overnight in the area.

When I day-tripped to Fougeres and Vitre in 2017, I seemed to be about the only tourist in town. Maybe it was the time of day? It was a summer trip.

Dinan and Dinard will probably fall between St.-Malo and MSM, crowd-wise.

I'm not sure the D-Day beaches are very practical from Rennes, due to the distance. Since your family is not at this point super-interested in them, I'd recommend holding off until a potential later trip to France.

All the places I've mentioned are attractive; to what degree they'll hold the interest of a 7-year-old, I do not know. Google for photos to see what you think. I believe, in general, larger cities may have more to offer a child. Of course, the beaches will help, but you need to stay flexible about beach activity since the weather is so flaky in that part of France. It would be best not to promise swimming at the beach on any specific day.