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Interesting Smithsonian article about Paris' cemeteries

Fans both current and future of rambles in Père Lachaise, Montparnasse, Montmartre, etc. might enjoy the read. We are subscribers but it doesn't appear to be subscription blocked. :O)

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/why-paris-designed-grand-graveyards-evoke-celebration-life-amid-all-death-180987458/

New visitors to Père Lachaise might also want to read up on its rumored oldest inhabitants, Héloïse and Abélard, whose journey to entombment in this most famous of the city's burial grounds was long and complicated! Although both met their demise in the mid 12th century, their combined remains were shuffled from place to place until 1817, when they were (allegedly) buried for a final time here. Their romance of forbidden love being well known at the time, Powers That Be figured posthumous proximity to these celebrated bones, as well as those of a few others, would draw business for the then-remote cemetery. Are their Medieval remains really inside their tomb? Who knows but the marketing strategy worked!

Posted by
463 posts

Thanks for thar cool link! I am a huge cemetery fan and will read with great interest!!!

Posted by
16314 posts

Thanks so much for the link! Very interesting article!

I laughed at this comment about Jim Morrison's grave...."The problems of sex and drugs at the grave are in the past, one hears, because the fans got old."

And so cool that there are foxes at Père Lachaise! Wow!

Posted by
3326 posts

I lived for a few years right in front of one of the entrances to Père Lachaise Cemetery, on the Place Gambetta side, it's a bit of a local park for strolling.

Jim's grave is now more "clean." Back then, it was a gathering place for fans who came with cassette players, lit candles, and smoked illicit substances.

You'll also notice that some of the recumbent statues have parts of their bodies that are shinier than others, like the statues of Victor Noir or Oscar Wilde. That's because rubbing certain parts of the statues' bodies (guess which ones) is said to confer virility and fertility, while for others, kissing their lips promises love and prosperity.

A grave is permanently covered with potatoes brought by visitors, that of Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, an 18th-century pharmacist who convinced the French that the potato was not dangerous. Before that, it was believed to carry diseases such as leprosy or the plague.

Posted by
848 posts

Kate & Pam, plus anyone else into the Doors: here is a quasi-related post involving Pere Lachaise. In addition to travel reporting, I am also a classic rock historian. Enjoy.

1) *an excerpt from our TR/photo essay from four years ago ('En Pays Villefranchois'):

'At Pere Lachaise, we dodged raindrops, got lost within (testing the strength of our bladders) and found ourselves visiting Jim Morrison's grave for the very first time. At that notorious site, we struck up conversation with other visitors, including American TV personality Drew Carey and his young posse. Playing the role of 'Classic Rock Historian Emeritus', I innocently commented on among other things, Jimbo's alcoholism. I sincerely hope that others present didn't assume that I was tryna embarrass them.'

2) Those interested in The Doors may want to check out Bill Cosgrave's recent book Love Her Madly. Cosgrave was once a runaway teen who left Canada to eventually live with a classmate in Cali. That female classmate just happened to be pre-fame Jim Morrison's girlfriend. It is a great read. One remarkable takeaway: Morrison was then known as a poet of sorts but never, not even once, did anyone in his orbit recall him ever even humming a tune, much less think of himself as a vocalist.

3) I have studied the circumstances of Jimbo's death. We even took a facade photo of the Marais apartment that some claimed was where he passed away, taking that shot only coz we were passing en route unawares and someone (the frustrated property manager? the residents?) had posted an angry sign outside: 'JIM MORRISON DID NOT DIE HERE!'

While in Paris, Jim Morrison had apparently been in the habit of buying his girlfriend Pam's heroin for her. After that final fatal purchase, he visited a rock club (the Left Bank 'Crazy Horse') and went down to the basement washrooms. There, he sat in a toilet stall to have at a taste of the drug. What he did not realize was that the particular batch of tainted dope that he then possessed, had already been responsible for the OD deaths of a number of Parisians that week. Morrison died on the spot.

Another club patron with a full bladder had noticed the body, then alerted the young, American ex-pat manager of that club. That manager raced down to view the body, but given the corpse's posture with the head drooping down did not at first recognize whom it was. But soon that same manager spied the dead man's belt, an arty Navajo item that he had earlier been shown proudly by Morrison as a new purchase just weeks earlier.

Mortified, that manager then told his French mafia bosses upstairs (see 'French Connection') about Jim's demise. Those upper-level French dealers did not want any extra attention on their activities and immediately waved that American manager aside, while having their own men take Jim's body away to be later posed naked in that apartment, having supposedly 'had a heart attack' in the bathtub. The American club manager was basically told, "Monsieur, if you ever speak one word of this..." About a decade ago, that same club manager finally felt obliged to announce the truth to the world.

I am done. the end

Posted by
16314 posts

Gregg...that is very interesting about the body being moved from the CH to an apartment! Plus the other stuff, lol.....

Posted by
5458 posts

there must be something in the water, or in the air, Youtube is full of vlogs lately about Paris cemeteries.

I thought it odd that of all people, Oscar Wilde's monument would get covered in kisses with red lipstick so they had to encase it in plastic.

Posted by
4197 posts

One of my favorite cemeteries is that in Passy . Stunning architecture and notable history there . Among the burials are members of The Manet family ,Eugene Manet and his wife, Berthe Morisot ,and that of Claude Debussy , his wife Emma Bardac , and their daughter Claude -Emma are buried with him. The composer Gabriel Faure also rests here.

Posted by
1482 posts

Ditto on the Passy Cemetery. Often overlooked in travel blogs, which is odd because of its proximity to the Trocadéro and Tour Eiffel. Another one that doesn't get mentioned as much is the Picpus Cemetery where the Marquis de Lafayette is buried. Hard to find, and limited opening hours, but worth it for any student of U.S. history.

Posted by
16314 posts

I finally made it to the Picpus Cemetery this last trip. PharmerPhil, you are right it is tough to find. I followed CityMapper which first tried to take me thru the hospital to get there, then thru the ambulance bay...uh, just no on that. I finally decided to try one more side of the huge block I seemed to be encircling and found it. The guy at the counter said...I hope you didn't follow google maps. I said no, CityMapper and it was just as bad. It was such an interesting place, only a few people there on the Fall afternoon I visited. According to something I read the American flag flew over Lafayette's grave even during the German Occupation. The cemetery is so well-hidden the Occupying forces apparently never knew.

IF anyone decides to visit on your next trip, ASK on the forum and let us get you pointed in the right direction!

Posted by
5458 posts

Lately people have been pitching the Montparnasse cemetery as worth a visit

Posted by
16314 posts

Montparnasse Cemetery IS a great place to visit! Lots of interesting head stones there.