I'm surprised no one has suggested any of Alan Furst's "historical spy novels" of WWII. They travel all over Europe but nearly all have some action in Paris. "The World at Night" is especially Paris-centric.
Rutherfurd's "Paris" is a good portrayal of various historical periods. I don't like the way he jumps around chronologically (unlike his other novels about London, New York, etc.) but you still learn a lot and enjoy the characters.
I loved Gopnik's "Paris to the Moon," though I generally don't enjoy his New Yorker pieces now. It's not a novel, nor history, but an entertaining memoir of his family's time in Paris that tells you a lot about the French and the city.
The Cara Black mysteries are fun, though after a couple of them you get a little tired of the characters and their shtick. They're all titled "Murder in the (insert neighborhood)." Look for one set in a part of Paris where you'll be staying, or spending time. I always end up with the book in one hand and a map in the other!
You didn't ask for straight history, but I have to mention "A Traveller's History of Paris" by Robert Cole. Much more accessible than the more academic stuff, or (God forbid) French historians in translation. And it focuses on the city, but of course you get a lot of history of France as well.