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Help with Loire Valley itinerary!

We are planning a return trip to France and will visit the Loire Valley for the first time. We will be visiting Paris prior to our time in the Loire. I am thinking of staying three nights, but may only stay two nights in the Loire. We want to visit Chateaux, but do not want to do a marathon of visiting chateaux after Chateaux. We would love to visit Chinon vineyards or tasting rooms where we can learn about the regions wines instead of just drinking them. We would like to spend an afternoon cycling or cycle to a chateau or canoe on the river. It is important to visit one of the big and impressive gardens. Has anyone went to one of the light shows? Can you recommend one? I am thinking that we stay near Azay le Rideau, but am open to any suggestions.

Posted by
7327 posts

Azay has nice grounds, as well as a smaller chateau, maybe more your speed. But for gardens, the real "must" is Villandry. That and Chinon suggest that you might choose to work only West of Tours. I'm not advocating that, but we felt a little like your OP, and were willing to miss some really important Chateaux. We took the TGV to St. Pierre des Corps (Tours) and rented our car there. Our first night was at an expensive Chateau/Hotel in Chinon, but you might consider Château de la Bourdaisière, a hotel with special gardens (not remotely as big gardens as Villandry!!)

There are a lot of public gardens in France, particularly in Brittany and Normandy. We combined some of those two provinces with the Western Loire. Seeing gardens and going to Son et Lumiere (very limited nights) requires heavy internet research and climate study. (For example, Château de la Bourdaisière specializes in Dahlias ... ) You can't get what you need on a newsboard. Also look for candle-illumination (exterior) nights. We didn't actually visit any vineyards. You should find out if appointments are expected at the better wineries.

An organized bicycle tour stayed at Château de Marçay, our high-end hotel. But luckily they got their own breakfast room, so it didn't annoy or affect our breakfast. Be sure to drive by the nuclear plant in Chinon, where you can imagine 'omer Seempson working. And you can get close enough to see the place! We also liked Fontevraud Abbey, which wasn't like "another Chateau" at all.

Posted by
6527 posts

I agree, Chinon would be a good base for what you want to do. Villandry has great gardens and Azay is beautiful behind its moat. The chateau at Chinon is historically very interesting but not much is left of it. Fontevraud is indeed different, a medieval abbey with the tombs of some of England's Plantagenet kings. Also the city walls of Angers are worth seeing, along with the tapestry there.

The more famous chateaux, like Chenonceau and Chambord, are east of Tours, but with your interests and time frame you'd be better staying west of the city. I hope you'll be driving in the Loire.

Posted by
243 posts

Yes, we will be driving and I am wondering if we stayed in the western part of Loire, whether a drive to Chennonceau would be reasonable as it is the closest chateau to the area west of Tours??

Posted by
7175 posts

I think most people choose a location close to Amboise because it is the midpoint between Chambord and Azay-le-Rideau (about 50mins to each).

Posted by
7327 posts

Nick, your second post, about Chennonceau is in direct opposition to your OP. Did you mean to say "closest really-famous chateau to ... "? There are lots of genuine chateaux closer to Chinon than Chennonceau. Many of them are quite famous, but not nearly as prominent, big, and well-known as Chennonceau. You get to decide where you drive.

Google Maps will help you estimate distances/times, although you should add 15% to every estimate, in my experience.

Posted by
1005 posts

Be aware that Azay-le-Rideau is under renovation and may be covered by scaffolding until 2017. I'd skip it. Staying in Chinon and visiting vineyards and Villandry is a great idea. If you have a car, a day-trip to see Chenonceau is worth it in my opinion--fabulous architecture, great gardens, and tons of history. I'd leave really early to get there when it opens. It's great until the tour buses arrive. If you want sound-and-light shows, the best one is at Blois--but that's a long way from Chinon.

Posted by
243 posts

Tim, you are correct. I was thinking of staying in the western part of the Loire and visiting one of the big, prominent chateaux in eastern part of the Loire valley. Although there are several chateaux in the west, Chenonceau seems to be the closest of the prominent, famous eastern Loire valley chateaux. I was thinking of spending the majority of time in the west and maybe driving to Chenonceau for a morning visit.

Posted by
6527 posts

Yes, Chenonceau is about an hour from Chinon by car. Well worth seeing, especially if Azay is under renovation. The direct route takes you right past Azay so you can see for yourself.