It's been on my bucket list since I learned about it, and I realize tours are usually in French. Has anyone done the guided tour (the only way) in French and enjoyed it enough?
It is easier to get in now -- I tried for years and finally managed to get a tour in French years ago -- I would have rather gone on a day when it was open and running (around Christmas) but it was still very much worth doing.
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2012/12/31/magic-at-musee-des-arts-forains/
As you can see this was 13 years ago -- but a tour in French.
You don't really need that much French to enjoy the tour. They do hand out a guide in English but the people in our group who were using it gave up on it after a while just went with the flow.