Hello all. My husband and I will be in Beaune at the end of July and I need some guidance on wine tasting. We arrive Monday afternoon, have all day Tuesday and Wednesday, and head to Paris on Thursday. I've read that bike rental is ideal for getting out into the vineyards, and we'd prefer to do that vs. renting a car. Our goals for Beaune are to relax and enjoy the food and wine, no real plans to be had. We love wine, but know absolutely nothing about French wine, or specifically Burgundy wine. So that said, would you recommend we venture out on bikes to a few wineries in the area, or just stick to the places in town that carry wine from several wineries, and taste that way? I don't know the protocol on tasting... if we can just bike somewhere and stop in, or if we should always make a reservation. Being less than knowledgeable on the wine, I don't want to be taken seriously somewhere when we are obviously novices on French wine (I don't want to look like a fool). What are your tips?
Posted by
Florida, USA
12172 posts
Some thoughts:
There is wine tasting at several places in town. Something Pere et Fils is one that Rick lists in his book. I had a cold when I was there, last May, and decided I couldn't taste anyway so I skipped it. Out of Beaune didn't seem easy by bike. The area isn't covered with vineyards, as it is in other places like Alsace. They limit the amount of land that can be used for grapes. It's also rolling hills, kind of steep up and downs. I think the idea of a bike in Burgundy is much better than actually riding a bike. I think you will end up happier with a rental car (but pay attention to strict drinking and driving laws). The area is beautiful and the wine is the best in the world, enjoy!
Posted by
OP
Kalamazoo, MI
18 posts
Thanks for the reply. I am surprised though that you mention that the area around Beaune isn't biker-friendly, since the RS book and a lot of supplemental info I'm finding online says how accessible it is by bike. I'll have to look into it further.
Posted by
2527 posts
For what little it's worth, we did a proper wine tasting in Beaune years ago. From my uncouth perspective, it was money and time NOT well spent. Had I to do over, I'd just pop into a wine shop and buy a nice bottle or two and enjoy. It's enjoyable visiting wineries, but be careful as to consumption and safety of transportation if driving bicycles or cars. I've enjoyed visiting wineries, but have a hard time spitting out what I just paid for.
Posted by
Portland, Maine
2916 posts
Something Pere et Fils is one that Rick lists in his book.
If it's Patriarche Pere et Fils, from my experience the place is terrible.
we did a proper wine tasting in Beaune years ago. From my uncouth perspective, it was money and time NOT well spent.
Maybe you went to Patriarche. That was exactly how I felt. I've visited hundreds of wineries in France over the years, and it's the only only one where I had to pay. And it may have been the worst. I do know that there are a few other negociants in Beaune, and I'm sure the experience will be better at one of those if the OP decides to take that route.
Posted by
OP
Kalamazoo, MI
18 posts
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that one off the list. I've been spending the last hour or so visiting the websites of the places in town that wouldn't require a bike ride, and this one is on the list. Curious though how you didn't have to pay anywhere? Everything I've seen thus far lists a tasting fee (and they can be pretty steep!).
Posted by
Boston
4132 posts
My first trip to Burgundy was as a wine newbie. I was traveling with a more-knowledgeable friend, which helped, but so did reading a little bit about French wine before I left the States. It helps to know that in most of France wine is about the appellation, not the grape.
With that perspective, one of the paid cellars in town (you buy a tastevin and try stuff) was a useful introduction. Biking to wineries in Pommard and Meursault was the high point, and also a tasting lunch in Aloxe-Corton.
Personally I found wine tasting and the whole scene to be more of an intellectual experience than a sensual one. The wine scene in burgundy is friendly and lively.
Read before you go.