Good Alternates to Versailles

Fontainebleau and Vaux le Vicomte are both wonderful and I have not found either to be as crowded as Versailles. It's about an hour by train to Fontainebleau. Here are instructions from Paris by Train: http://parisbytrain.com/paris-to-fontainebleau-by-train/. Getting to Vaux le Vicomte by public transportation is a little bit more of a challenge, but it can be done. You have to get to Melun either by RER or regional train. I would take a taxi from there but depending on the time of year there could be a shuttle. It's about 6 kilometers from Melun to the Vaux le Vicomte.

http://www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr/spip.php?lang=en

http://www.vaux-le-vicomte.com/en/

Rick's France book does not cover the two destinations recommended above (except for the map on p. 244) but his Paris book has a couple of pages on each, as well as Chantilly (which gets a lower star rating). Vaux-le-Vicomte is mostly closed in winter. See also this article.

I can only second JHK's input on Fountainbleu. It was easy to get to and really worth seeing - fantastic furnishings and art plus the grounds are beautiful!

Fontainebleu and Chantilly are also included in the Paris Museum Pass. Vaux-le-Vicomte isn't.

I haven't visited any of the above, but another interesting one in the region that is included in the PMP is the chateau at Rambouillet. Highlights are Napoleon Bonaparte's bathroom, the fifties-moderne style rooms of the Presidents of France, the model dairy Louis XVI built for Marie Antoinette, and the ridiculously elaborate Shell Cottage.

Totally agree with JHK. Loved both (as well as Versailles, particularly the grounds at Versailles). Fontainebleau and Vaux-le-Vicomte are absolutely great.

I also recommend visiting the Nissim de Camondo museum in Paris. It's the former mansion of a wealthy family and is amazing. Beautiful furnishings. Parc Monceau surrounds it, which is lovely. Others might recommend the Jacquemart-Andre museum in Paris, although I like the Nissim much better.

The plus for Fontainebleau is that it has different consecutive interior styles fom Renaissance till 19th century (Napoleon III). Vaux-le-Vicomte is only about Baroque, nevertheless splendid. Maybe Chantilly ranks not as highest, but its Musée Condé with its unique art collection is certainly you wil like.

Less bigger, closer to Paris and within easy reach are Maisons-Laffitte and Château de Champs-sur-Marne, but still have both to visit.

You can visit all places without a guided tour.

Philip – Fontainebleau has still the room where Napoleon signed his abdication before exciled to Elba. Nearby the chateau is also a museum about Napoleon, haven´t visited yet so can´t say if it is of interest or not.

It's not a grand palace, but for visual masterpieces, what about Monet's home and gardens at Giverny? You can reach it by car or train.

Merci beaucoup! Looking forward to using your great tips.

Two weeks ago we took an excellent day-long bus tour with Paris City Visions to Vaux-le-Vicomte and Fountainbleu. Admission to both included in the 61e per person price. Both sites were amazing("Versailles minus the mobs"), and we were quite happy to leave the route finding to the professionals. Another hot tip-the gardens at Vaux are huge. After you tour the chateau, rent a golf cart to tour the garden....only 15e for 45 minutes...just enough time to make a leisurely circuit of the garden and be back in time for the bus to Fountainbleu.

Ed in Seattle

Fyi, Vaux-le-Vicomte also has a nice cafe with very good food.

I am considering visiting Chantilly next year, but it would really be to see the du Berry Book of Hours. Is it displayed in its entirety, or does one see a book in a glass case opened to one or two pages? I have no idea. I have visited several chateaux and loved them all, but would especially visit Chantilly particularly for this work.

Le Château de Maintenon is AMAZING and quite close. You'd take the TER from Gare Montparnasse to Maintenon (take the Paris - Chartres-Nogent-le-Rotrou, Le Mans train). Follow the signs (best to print out some Google directions, but it's easy to find), linger around the charming château, the town, and back to Paris for dinner.
The Château de Maintenon is small, splendid, and very historic. The aqueducts that are outside are so picturesque. Hell, take a day and do the château and then see Chartres.

Denny - I can´t answer your question, but you can try to ask the museum or the library directly:
[email protected] or [email protected]

Thank you for the contact information Wil. I have learned from another poster that it is apparently displayed to reveal only two pages.

I loved Chantilly. It has a great art museum with Rafael, Delacroux and others, a beautiful library and apartments, a large English garden. Also there is a horse museum there, which is famous. There is a direct train, about 25 min from Gare du Nord; RER D goes there also.

Is there much to see in the gardens at the end of March at Vaux-le-Vicomte? Thanks.

Vaux-le-Vicomte was easy by train from Paris, followed by a short taxi ride. If you want an artistic experience similar to Varsailles, I very much recommend a visit. The king took the architect, landscape architect, and artists/artisans from Vaux-le-vicomte to create Versailles.

You don't say when you'll be going, but if you can time your visit for a candlelight evening there and/or a day when the fountains are running, I recommend that. I spent a night nearby, which allowed me to see the château by candlelight in the evening, and return the next day to revisit the chateau in the daylight and visit the gardens/fountains. During the evening part of my visit, I had rooms entirely to myself, and it was quiet enough that I could actually enjoy the music that was being piped through the Château.

As Alexander points out, the Chateau at Maintenon could be worthwhile. We skipped Maintenon, but did take the advice in Ina Caro's book Paris to the Past and saw Chartres and a concert at Sainte Chapelle in the same day-fabulous day!
There is a description of Maintenon in the book.

Gardens at great chateaux are not primarily about flowers -- that includes Versailles. The beauty of the Vaux le Vicomte gardens is in their architecture (which of course inspired Versailles which was designed later by the same architects) Walking from the Chateau to the end of the gardens at Vaux le Vicomte is an amazing experience due to the forced perspective and deceptive distances. You can see our snapshots at: http://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/09/20/vaux-le-vicomte-our-last-chateau/
Vaux le Vicomte remains our favorite chateau in the Ile de France. Fountainbleau is a bit easier to get to and is also lovely and uncrowded but IMHO the grounds are nowhere near as impressive. If you go to Vaux le Vicomte spring for the slightly more expensive ticket that allows you to the cupola on the chateau -- wonderful views of the gardens from there. The historic tableau was pretty interesting as well and there are signs in English between the sections so it is easier to follow than if it were all in French.

Malmaison is also a nice chateau visit and easy to get to and uncrowded. Rambouillet is not as impressive -- although the grounds are wonderful (more natural English rambles rather than formal French gardens). It is the country home of the President of France. You can tour the chateau when he is not in residence. When I did it, it was me and one elderly French couple. There are also snapshots in the photo journal noted above in the 'Day Trips from Paris' category.