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Gah--Paris got me again!

So almost every time I fly through CDG, I end up with some awful story. This is a trend over decades--I have numerous stories and will pay extra to fly via another airport. This time, I was not transferring, so I thought I would be okay. Turns out, Paris got me anyway!

I flew from Hamburg to CDG this weekend to see a friend in Versailles. The flight in was fine--landed, found the RER B easily enough, and an easy transfer at St. Michel Notre Dame had me on my way to Versailles with no hassle. Like anywhere in France outside of Paris, I had an amazing experience. This town is seriously lovely, and visiting friends is always amazing.

Cue the return trip. I arrived at the train station in Versailles and bought a ticket, even asking about the transfer at St. M ND. I was informed that the train went only to Invalides (why?) and that I would need to take the metro to SMND. No problem except there is no metro between those stops. So a short walk along the Seine, and I figure I will take a bus. Except . . . there were line disruptions, so when the very delayed bus finally showed up, it was very crowded. That's okay, only a few km. I still had plenty of time and a clean shirt in my bag.

I arrived at SMND only to find the station's RER B section closed. Um . . . but some nice French couple who were also headed for CDG were able to get information that there was a closure for that day only and that we should take the metro two stops to Chatelet Les Halles. Took the super jammed metro, found the RER B, and there were people on the platform. Except the train to CDG doesn't seem to be running. Only trains to Mitry Claye and Aulnay sous Bois. These seem to be three separate RER B trains as the stops listed for each do not overlap (turns out, it's mostly one line, but each of the three trains stops in different spots, but how is a stranger to know that?). Cue several confused airport-bound tourists. Why is no CDG train running?

Well, my eagle eye figures there must be a notification, and sure enough, I spot a small scrolling notification in French--but it is scrolling, so little chance of getting google translate involved, and while I think it says something about a bus, it doesn't seem to tell us which train to take. Meanwhile google maps and other apps are giving us conflicting information on which train to board and what to do upon arrival in either Aulney or Mitry. Locals advised us to go to Mitry, but other locals advised us to go to Aulney. After several trains have passed through, we finally decide that Mitry looks close to the airport and that we can always try to split a cab when we get there.

So on the (again, packed) train to Mitry--again filled with confused tourists--there is an announcement for passengers to CDG. The announcement is in French. Only in French. I don't expect all regional trains to have announcements in English, but if the announcement is for passengers to the international airport, it seems reasonable to do at least that one announcement in English, right?

Anyway, I was pretty sure it was telling us to stay on the train all the way to Mitry. And in Mitry, we were told to go into one of two lines for busses to CDG. Okay. I get in the T1/3 line. Three busses stop for the T2 line, none for us--cue lots of locals yelling about this in angry French. After another packed bus ride, we pull up, but nobody says whether this is T1 or T3 despite lots of asking. I knew there was an airport train between terminals, so after being told it was T1, I, like most on the bus got off--only to find it was T3, and I had to take yet another train.

The whole adventure could have been avoided with a few signs.

I had plenty of time when I left, so I was still well within my time, and the rest of the trip was amazing. I got a little walk on the Seine and a pic of the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame. I made it home.

But seriously Paris, why can't you be like the rest of France???

Posted by
662 posts

Well, one because they’re a big city and two they are just like the rest of France. I’ve got a similar horror story in some other parts of Paris France, where we were depending on buses or trains that just quit running.

This happened to me once and my solution was to walk out of the station where the first problem occurred and get a taxi - sometimes you just buy yourself out of a mess

Posted by
4187 posts

I understand that many people travel on a budget, but sometimes you just have to pay extra to stop the insanity. Taxi for sure.

Posted by
3942 posts

For others who may end up in a similar situation, this was the time to check for information on the RATP app. There would have been information about the alternate route and the closures. As to how to know that the RER B is "mostly one line, but each of the three trains stops in different spots, but how is a stranger to know that," that information is available on the internet such as at the RATP site https://www.ratp.fr/en/plans-lignes/rer/b.

Posted by
7748 posts

HowlinMad, cripes, what a bad experience! But I get what you mean about Paris. The last time I was there (2 years ago) was for a stopover. Our AirFrance flight was taking us to Berlin but it got halfway to Berlin from CDG and then turned around and went back. I had no problem with that, since I figured it was for safety reasons (although no one ever told us what was wrong) but I was upset when they put us on a shuttle, took us back to the terminal and then dumped us there. We had no idea where to go or who to see. It was pretty horrific, and a large group of us wandered around for at least 30-45 minutes before we finally found someone who could help us, and we made it to our new plane.

I will do anything in the world to avoid CDG. I will be heading to Paris again in the spring, but via Eurostar from London, so I hope that will be a better experience, especially since I will have 2 of my grandkids with me. :-)

Posted by
802 posts

G7 Taxi app. Life made easy!

I felt like you just standing in the line to visit Saint Chapelle. Signs could go a long way.

Posted by
1255 posts

Thanks for the heads up! We will be taking a taxi to CDG when we leave France next summer.

Posted by
612 posts

Had I been tight on time or worried about missing the flight, the taxi was the option in my back pocket.

I have a problem with needing an app to navigate public transport. Not everyone has a smartphone, the technical know-how to navigate such apps (my aunt wouldn't know how to download a new app), or even the knowledge on which app to use (the airport signs all told me to use a different app from the one you just recommended). It appeared that locals were using different apps from what the Spanish ladies were using, which allowed for the conflicting information. Heck, Google Maps and Maps gave different answers!

I am pretty reasonable at figuring things out without a phone and with limited language. My broken French got us a ride out of a yurt camp in Kyrgyzstan, and I have navigated all over the place with just a map over the years. I really don't need much. But the complete disregard for providing information was so irritating, and the announcement made for international travellers only in French was icing (and with the conused conversations between travellers, you would think one of the French people on the train could loudly state what had been said just to be helpful--it's what I do when I see confused people). And when arriving at the terminal and everyone is asking which terminal it is, is it too much for the driver of the bus to tell us?

It was just so irritatingly unnecessary. I get that when I am in your country, I should attempt to speak your language--and indeed I was complimented on my French when I bought my train ticket in Versailles. But that is a far cry from understanding a fuzzy and fast announcement in a crowded train with background noise. And the lack of signs in any language left even French travellers wondering why there was a giant barricade instead of access to the needed train.

I mean, it all worked out and no good travel story starts with "it all went according to plan." I just needed to vent that instead of time to maybe easily switch trains at SMND and maybe even a quick walk to see as a little break, instead of time to get a nice healthy dinner on the way to the airport, I was stuck with going directly to my gate and being lucky enough that the little shop in the crowded section of the terminal had two salad bowls left in the cooler that weren't absolutely awful. I hadn't been to Paris in over 20 years (minus a few unavoidable layovers). I had the city itself in my memory as a place not worth visiting. After watching the Olympics and enjoying Versailles so much, I was texting my husband that maybe we should go back to Paris soon. Then this travel nonsense made me remember why I developed such an aversion to the city.