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French Riviera, Home Bases.

Hello everyone.
We (four people) are traveling to the French Riviera mid to late September for ten days.
We already have a home-base for the first five days 20 miles west of Nice.
We are looking for suggestions for the next home-base and hotels/B&Bs. Nice vs Villefranche-sur-Mer.
As far as budget lets use Rick's $$$-$$$$ guideline.
Is there another town nearby that can serve a good home base.
We most likely will have a rental car some point during the stay so parking is an issue.
Has anyone ever stayed at Chateau Le Cagnard? How did you get there from the airport and was a rental car an issue?
Where did you park?
We understand the streets near the Chateau are extremely narrow.
Thank You!!!!

Posted by
461 posts

We have enjoyed staying in Villefranche-sur-Mer at Hotel Welcome with a gorgeous view of the harbor area and the yachts from the room balcony. It is an easy walk to a nice small-pebble beach and is very picturesque. We took the bus to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and enjoyed the audio tour and had lunch there. Buses and trains are available from Villefranche-sur-Mer, so it is easy to get to Nice or Monaco from there. Another trip we stayed at the Hotel Royal Riviera in St. Jean Cap Ferrat which is lovely. It has a pool as well as a beach and a marvelous breakfast. The walk along Promenade Maurice Rouvier has spectacular views. Going to the hilltop village of Eze is another great excursion.

Posted by
15560 posts

I was on the riviera a couple months ago, so in low season. I spent 5 nights in Nice and used the train to visit the towns along the coast. Then I rented a car for 3 nights to explore places not accessible by car (stayed in Saint-Paul) - plus driving the Corniches roads. My advice is to go to as many places not on the train line while you have the car, then dump it and settle down for the last 5 days on the train line. Traffic and parking weren't bad in mid-March (and the beaches were nearly empty), but I would not expect the same in mid-September. The train was a great way to get around, it's cheap and runs frequently.

Ville-Franche was my favorite. I found it surprising that in Antibes there were only one or two (expensive) cafes on the seashore. There were lots of choices, but they didn't have sea views.

Posted by
26833 posts

I agree with Chani: Try to group your visits to hill towns (possibly including Eze, St-Paul-de-Vence, Vence and Tourrettes-sur-Loup) so they fall during the period when you'll have a car, then enjoy hopping up and down the coast by train the rest of the time. Do be aware of the possibility of pickpockets on the trains, though the trains were not especially crowded during my May 2017 visit.

Rick's book focusing on southern France has more comprehensive coverage of this area than the guide to France as a whole.

I'm a budget traveler, so I can't assist in your sesrch for a great place to stay.

Posted by
12172 posts

I was there in late September 2017 and found an Airbnb about a block from the beach at Juan les Pins for around 50 euro per night. It was a studio and suitable for two, not four.

I explored and decided Antibes is the best location on the stretch. The beaches are white sand (unlike most beaches), there is a nice marina, ramparts along the sea, a medieval center, a nice cafe area plus one of the best art galleries. It's small enough to be walkable and has a train station, near the marina, for getting up and down the coast.

A rental car is only good when you are away from the coast. My advice is use the car either on the way in or way out to see the off coast sights you want to see but don't keep a car while you're on the coast. Traffic is ridiculous. It's faster and more relaxed to use the train.

Posted by
667 posts

Your choice of location depends very much on what you want. Do you want that sea view?

Getting in and out of Villefranche-Sur-Mer to the main tollway can take a long time. It is generally best to take the train or bus into Monaco, for example. In addition to the hotels above, there is also the Four Seasons on Cap Ferrat. Getting in/around the Corniches are OK, as the worst of the holiday traffic will be done (they often shut down car access to the lower village during the peak months). Some people are fearful of the traffic and high cliffs along these Corniches but they certainly are more scenic than the slow traffic that can often clog the area around Antibes (getting out in the summer can be terrible).

If you envision travelling up and down the A8, then consider St. Paul de Vence. Just outside of town is the Mas du Pierre, and other similar country properties. Vence and Cagnes SM are close by. You can also consider Eze itself (or nearby La Turbie) but the actually things to do within these locations, without getting in the car, is less.

I believe the Chateau le Cagnard is in an area of Cagnes sur Mer with limited vehicle access. Generally people park outside the village or down below and take the shuttle/navette (which also heads to the train station, I think). Traffic in and around this area can get very tight.

Within Nice, La Perouse or the Hyatt Palais de la Mediterranee are top choices along the water. Public parking is nearby and there is an express tunnel from near this area to the A8, plus public transport is very easy. Generally I only recommend renting a car for a couple of days to head out into the hills, and to use the train, tram and buses for the larger towns along the coast.