We just returned from 20 days in France. I received my Pass Sanitaire 4 days before we left, 2 weeks after applying. We flew Icelandic, which had extra Covid precautions for transiting Iceland, including an on-line form agreeing to follow precautions. My husband got his Pass Sanitaire 6 days in, after having gotten an acceptance that forgot to attach the document the same time I got mine. His CDC card was accepted at all the restaurants and museums we went to prior to him getting it. Masks were worn in all indoor establishments other than restaurants when eating.
We picked up a car at CDG, which was quite a walk from the Icelandic terminal, but once underway was fine, it was a Saturday afternoon and skirting Paris the traffic was fine.
Giverny was gorgeous and not crowded even though we were there during the free access Patrimony weekend. Villandry was similarly quiet. We stayed at a lovely refurbished barn outside Chinon, and the innkeepers gave us a tour of the chateau they are in the process of bringing back to life. After 4 nights there, we drove to Sarlat for 4 nights. That was a long but very scenic drive. It was gorgeous, kayaking the Dordogne and going to the Lascaux IV museum, where the tour groups were kept small for Covid safety. There were lots of British accents, but likely expats rather than tourists. We had a night in Carcassonne, which was busy but not nearly as crowded as usual per the innkeeper.
We stayed 6 nights in an incredible apartment in Arles, where we had the exhibits at the Reattu, Luna, the Roman museum and Fondation Van Gogh almost completely to ourselves. The market there was wonderful and almost everyone was masked. We did day trips to the Camargue, Nimes, Uzes and Avignon. The Pont du Gard was busy but not crazy, we were able to walk right in with no lines. The TGV to Paris made me wish the USA had such amazing transit options.
We had 5 nights in Paris, which several people said was even quieter than the quietest part of the down season. There are essentially no tourists from Asia, and very few from anywhere else. We only heard American accents a few times the whole 3 weeks. The d'Orsay was a little busy only because of a late opening which pushed 3 timed groups together, and the Louvre was very quiet - only 20 people in line for the Mona Lisa, and the rest of the place extremely quiet. Due to a mix up, I had to buy tickets and was able to walk straight in after doing it online outside. We walked by the Effiel Tower and the lines didn't look bad at all. The Sainte-Chappelle was under tight security due to the Bataclan trial next door, we needed to purchase timed tickets ahead of time and go through TSA-like security. There were only about 20 people there when we were. The Marmottan was very quiet when we entered at opening but had about 15 people in line by the time we left.
For our exit testing, we just stopped by one of the pop-up tents that are sprinkled around the city, we had our results in 10 minutes, and they printed them out at the pharmacy connected with the tent. At the check-in desk for our airline, we heard a very frustrated young woman insisting that she hadn't gotten a test because she "couldn't find one anywhere" and she was not allowed on the flight. She was also fibbing, they were a common sight.
I had incredibly kind interactions with folks when lost, and I felt really welcomed and appreciated in my feeble attempts to speak French. The few times the other person didn't speak English, we got by with sign language. One time when Google maps was leading me astray in Paris, the young woman I asked for directions actually walked me to my destination and chatted with me on the way! No one will be surprised to hear that my husband and I fell in love with Paris and are already planning our return.