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France trip itinerary help - Paris and Nice

Hello!

I'm in crunch time finalizing an itinerary for a France trip this spring. I'm taking my mom for her 75th birthday in May. We have 9 days. We're arriving in Paris and departing from Nice. Here's what I have so far:

Day 1:
- Arrive around 1pm, check in to hotel
- Hop on Hop off tour for general sightseeing and getting acclimated
- Arch de triumph for sunset
- Dinner
- Walk around Eiffel Tower at night

Day 2:
- Louvre
- Jardin de Tullieres
- Musee de l'Orangerie
- Jardin du Palais Royal

Day 3:
- Notre Dame
- Sainte Chappel
- Canal Saint Martin canal tour
- Explore Canal Saint Martin and Marais area

Day 4:
- Day trip to Strasbourg or Colmar?

Day 5:
- Day trip to Giverny

Day 6:
- Breakfast/walking around Montmartre
- Train Paris to Avignon

This is where I'm struggling. One of my biggest bucket list items in the area is seeing the lavender but we'll unfortunately be there too early in the season. Is the Avignon area worth sightseeing or am I better to just move on to Nice area since we have limited time? Below are two options I'm considering. A third option just taking the train from Avignon right on to Nice on day 6.

  • Option 1: check into hotel in Avignon, sightseeing around village

Day 7
- Option 1: stay in Avignon and do a full day tour including Pont du Gard, Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes, and Roussillon

Day 8
- Option 1: Pick up car, drive to Cassis, sightseeing Calanques National Park, get to Nice for dinner, check in to hotel

Day 9
- Option 1: Drive to Vence (Chapel of the Rosary for Matisse, Notre-Dame cathedral for Chagall), local winery
*Vence is a non negotiable- my mom is a huge art lover and Chapel of the Rosary is high on her list

Day 10
- depart 10:30am

OR

Day 6
- Option 2: Train Avignon to Paris, half day tour from Avignon (Luberon, Roussillon & Gordes), stay in Avignon over night

Day 7
- Option 2: Pick up car, stop at Cassis, Calanques National Park, continue on to Antibes

Day 8
- Option 2: Drive to Vence (Chapel of the Rosary for Matisse, Notre-Dame cathedral for Chagall), local winery for views and dinner, return to Nice
*Vence is a non negotiable- my mom is a huge art lover and Chapel of the Rosary is high on her list

Day 9
- Option 2: Tour Nice (Vieux Nice walk, Cours Seleya, Chagall or Matisse museum, Promenade des anglaise walk / castle hill for sunset

Day 10
- depart Nice 10:30am

Appreciate any feedback, thoughts and recommendations!

Posted by
11940 posts

We didn’t care for Avignon and much preferred Arles. Avignon is a city of more than 90,000 residents and the smaller size Arles,50,000, fit our expectations much better.
Be careful about “open hours” for the chapel in Vence. We were able to enter but the open times were quite limited.
We spend several weeks in Nice each time we visit . There is do much to see and explore in the city and surrounding area. The blend of cultures( French, Italian) makes it an interesting city.

Posted by
1889 posts

EJ Travls,
How exciting for you and your mom to be in France for her special birthday. As someone who has been there a few times in my 81 years, I do have some suggestions (hopefully) to make your mom's visit a great one.
Day 1: The HOHO bus will probably get stuck in traffic somewhat. And on arrival day, something where you sit and ride (the bus and the Seine River boat tours) will likely put you to sleep after an overnight flight from the states. The Arc and the ET are good ideas for walking around, but by nighttime you may be ready for an early bedtime, so maybe do one of these in the afternoon.
Day 2: Since the Louvre is so large, pick one wing or section of it to see. It is worth doing the research so you don't wear yourselves out backtracking or looking for that special piece of art. For most people, 3-4 hours in one stretch is about the max. Going to L'Orangerie from the Louvre on foot takes you through the Tuileries. Yay! And the Palais Royal is just over 2 km from L'Orangerie, so that is doable. I will add, however, that you need to fit in some time for lunch and just sitting and resting. You may be ready to stop your sightseeing before the Jardin de Palais Royal.
Day 3: Looking good!
Day 4: IMO a one day trip to Strasbourg is too much. But it is doable with the TGV (just under 2 hours). I would leave as early as possible to give myself more time there. Been to both, but for one day I think Strasbourg has more to offer. If you do pick Colmar, it is about another half-hour by train from Strasbourg.

Day 5: Giverny won't take a whole day, so you have time for something else when you return. (Unless you left really late for Giverny. I advise an early start to have less crowding.) The Opera Garnier is one of my favorite things, and the magnificent ceiling is by Chagall. Your mom would love it. Maybe a Seine cruise later (it takes about an hour.)
Day 6: Looks fine. Personally I am not a huge fan of Avignon (By the way, the population is over 480,000, so def not a village). But you may want to see the papal palace and the bridge and some of the old town. (Are you thinking of Avignon or maybe Arles, pop. 52,00?)
Day 7: Option 1, although you may not fit everything in. Do see Pont du Gard, Rousillon for sure.
Day 8: Option 1. Drive times will be longer than what the websites say. Add an hour to what they say for gas/food/comfort stops and traffic surprises. Picking up a rental car can go quickly or slowly. Qui sait? Personally, I get a paper Michelin map for the areas we drive in to get the big picture of our driving. (But then I am 81, soooo last century!)
Days 9 and 10: I have no opinion, but of course, go to Vence!
Amusez-vous bien!

Posted by
8286 posts

A bit of a tough choice - essentially either pick a day in Avignon or a day in Nice. They’re my two favorite cities in France…well, Lyon’s right up there, too.

With Option 2, at least you get a night in Avignon, along with that whole day in Nice at the end, so I’d go with it, and don’t bother with an Option 3, which skips Avignon and Provençal villages entirely.

Additional notes:

Unless you have specific dining plans for Avignon on Night 6, and would like a nice dinner, I recommend Numero 75, at 75 Rue Guillaume Puy. It was started by Chef Robert Brunel, from whom I took a cooking class in Avignon years ago, and also when he used to make trips to Boulder, Colorado. He, and his restaurant, are excellent.

In Antibes, is the Picasso Museum part of your plans? I hope it is.

Depending on how much time you spend touring around Nice, it is possible to see both the Chagall and Matisse museums on Day 9. Chagall takes an hour longer if you see the film in the cinema room, and there’s also a very nice cafe in the courtyard for lunch. Inside the Matisse museum is a small model he built to help in designing the Chapel of the Rosary; not the same as the actual chapel, of course, but your mom and you might still want to make a point of seeing it if you include the Matisse museum in your plans.

Posted by
122 posts

On Day 1 instead of taking the Hop on Hop off bus I would recommend taking a river boat ride on the Seine. It gives a lovely overview of the city. When you go to the Eiffel Tower be sure to see it from Trocadero - the views are spectacular especially at night with the lights on.

On Day 4 it may be too much to go to Strasbourg and or Colmar for just the day. We spent 2 nights there. You would spend most of your time traveling. Instead you may consider seeing the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris and the St Germain des Pres area with Cafe de Flore and the St Germain des Pres church, the oldest in Paris. Also consider Musee D'Orsay with the impressionist paintings. We enjoyed it even more than the Louvre. Another place to visit would be Galeries Lafayette at 40 Bd Haussman. It is a great department store with a gorgeous dome.

We loved our time in the French Riviera, and the small towns near Nice are easily reached by regional train or bus. Villefranche sur Mer, Eze, and Monaco are great. You may wish to skip Avignon and take the train directly from Paris to Nice.

Whatever you choose it will be a great trip with your Mom. It is so thoughtful of you to celebrate her.

Posted by
78 posts

I was underwhelmed with Nice--basically another city. I walked on the promenade and saw the Chagall museum which was small. I was in and out of it in less than an hour. It was raining heavily the day I was there so that didn't help.

I was so glad I stayed in Villefranche-sur-mer instead of Nice. It was more quaint and I had a view of the cruise ships coming into port. From my room, I could actually see the villa across the water where Keith Richards once lived. Beaches were nice too. I used the train to go to Monaco and Nice. I was able to walk to Beaulieu and St Jean Cap Ferrat. If I ever went back to the French Riviera, I would stay somewhere in St Jean Cap Ferrat, I think. It was gorgeous.

Posted by
1888 posts

A couple critiques:

  1. There's no way you will do the Louvre and l'Orangerie in the same day, let alone adding in the Palias Royal. Not going to happen unless you just walk in the door and then walk out. The crowd alone will prevent it. Pass on l'Orangerie, it will be wall to wall and you can't enjoy that. Do get into the Louvre within the first or second time slots, and immediately go to the top and work you're way down. That will allow you to avoid most of the crowd for a couple hours.

  2. Don't day trip to Strasbourg. You'll spend too much time in travel. If you must see that city do it enroute to the south coast. If you must have another day trip, and you love Chagall, go to Metz and see his work in the cathedral there. I'm biased, but Metz for a day is better than Strasbourg.

And something to consider; skip Avignon and stop in Lyon on the way to Nice.

Posted by
759 posts

Be sure to reserve ahead your tickets in Paris. I'm surprised that if your mom is an art lover you are not going to the Musee d'Orsay. Reserve well ahead and integrate these visits so you can avoid fatigue and burnout. Consider also the Picasso Museum when you are in the Marais.

If you book a reservation at Notre Dame, it won't be as time consuming. The renovations are not complete and you walk in a very tight, controlled and extremely packed circuit with all the walkups (which will have a huge line). I was there earlier in the month and I found it stiffling (but it was my return visit). The Strasbourg day may be tiring and long and might be best reserved for another trip.

Are you planning a boat tour in Cassis? Can you mother walk/hike what's required to see most of the Calanques? There is some drivable access, but days may be limited (even in May) and walking/hiking may still be required. If no boat trip or the walking/hiking is not possible. you may want to skip it.

Take care with driving in Nice, if you are ovelapping with either the Cannes Film Festival or the Monaco Grand Prix. Driving into the center can be challenging. You might consider returning your car after your trip to Vence. Return it at the airport and take the tram into town. On your trip to Vence, there is also St. Paul de Vence and the Fondation Maeght.

There really are no wineries with dining in this part of the south, unless by special booking, try that near Avignon or in Provence. You might consider lunch at the Colombe d'Or in St. Paul de Vence. Reserve ahead. Famous painters through history paid their bills through artwork that now hang on the walls. If you want a special dinner/lunch with a view, consider one of the Michelin star places in Eze or le Plongeoir in Nice (reserve ahead). There are also other beach and resort restaurants with good views, of course. The Chagall Museum is the more special of the two on the Cimiez hill, with the chapel stained glass, garden mosaics and the dedicated space he created for his series of 17 religious paintings.

Posted by
264 posts

I agree that it is a long day to try to see Strasbourg in a day from Paris. One thing to watch out for in Strasbourg, especially at age 81: the bicyclists. There are a lot of them and they do not seem to pay much attention to pedestrians. We liked Strasbourg, but we spent 5 days there in an apartment and were able to see it leisurely.

We saw the papal palace in Avignon and thought it was worthwhile. Cannot speak for the rest of Avignon, as that is all we stopped for. Peter

Posted by
536 posts

This sounds like a wonderful trip with your mother! Other folks have posted a wealth of information here with so many good ideas! I would just add a few more thoughts:

If you do go to the Opera area, the Opera Garnier is really beautiful. I sat and looked at the Chagall ceiling for quite a while, and I think that would be really special for your mom and you. While there, you’re very close to Galleries Lafayette with its magnificent stained glass dome, and it’s fun to go to the rooftop and see the views across Paris from there. There’s a café up there as well, which makes for a nice break. We even enjoyed it when it was rainy!

If you take the time to go to Giverny, I would highly recommend you aim to get there as early as possible. Our tour guide stressed that to us, and we were one of the first two buses to arrive. She hurried us over to the water lily pond first, so we were able to really enjoy it in peace before the hordes descended, then we toured the house, and ended with the gardens. It was very crowded by the time we left midday, and that was in late June.That was a really special day for our family.

As a huge Monet fan, I agree with the other poster who recommended you consider Musee d’Orsay, and plan to head right to the top floor when you arrive there. Then work your way down. Those Impressionist paintings are simply magnificent there and you can get really close to them. There is also an interesting model of the Opera Garnier there, a little hidden, but interesting to study especially after visiting in person.

The Louvre can be really crowded and pretty overwhelming, and I’ve seen several videos about people who hired a private tour with a knowledgeable guide who could get you to the masterpieces you’re most interested in seeing. That might be worth it for you in order to make the most of your visit, considering time and energy. Les Frenchies -Colleen and Antoine DuPont- are a couple who have a lot of really helpful videos and travel information on YouTube. This particular video shows how they hired a private guide and were able to see highlights in a really focused way. https://youtu.be/E4qDocRHc5o?si=-war3gE7AK5KhFzq

We spent time in the Alsace region last year, based in Colmar. We loved the whole region, visiting many of the small towns along the Route du Vin. We took a day trip to Strasbourg, and after being in the small town villages, we thought that city had more of a Parisian feel. The Batobus tour was interesting and a nice way to see more of the town from the canal. We also took one of the tourist trains. There are two different routes for the tourist trains. https://petit-train-strasbourg.fr/?lang=en We took the Neustadt route, but if you don’t think you’re going to get to one of the smaller towns, I would recommend the Petite France tour route for the scenery. We liked Strasbourg, but we loved the charm of Colmar and some of the other towns we visited - Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Ribeauvillé… It depends on what you’re looking for, and if you just want a brief introduction to Alsace, or want to spend your time in a smaller village or town.

I hope you have a wonderful trip with your mom! We are heading to Provence and the Riviera this year, so I appreciated reading other people‘s comments here about those regions.

Laurie

Posted by
42 posts

I can only comment on the Paris part. I'm sure that Strasbourg and Colmar are lovely, but it would be easier to spend part of that day at Versailles. I also agree with a previous poster that Musee D'Orsay should not be missed. Also, a river cruise is a nice way to rest your feet for a while.

Posted by
6 posts

I took a Canal Saint-Martin boat tour about a month ago (the long version from near Place de la Bastille to Bassin de la Villette):

  • it's spectacular for the first 20 minutes or so as you travel through the covered portion of the canal. The light filtering through the shafts is entrancing, even on an overcast day.

  • going through the locks was fascinating... the first time. The next three times, not so much. If you're wondering why it takes 2.5 hours to go ~2.5 miles, wonder no more. (I see now that there's a 75-minute version, skipping some of the locks. Suggest you book this one if you haven't already.)

Overall I'd say it was worthwhile despite the tedium of the locks. Probably would have been better with good weather, making it possible to enjoy the upper deck. A walk beside the canal is also well worthwhile, but of course you won't see the covered part from the interesting angle.

I'll echo the comments suggesting day 2 is too packed. I'll also note that while the big famous museums are wonderful, Paris also has excellent smaller museums. One example: Musée Carnavalet, the city history museum, has what I would call a world-class collection, most notably of portraits but all kinds of other art and artifacts as well. It's free, and you can easily explore for hours even though it's a tiny fraction of the size of the Louvre (which I would not bother with unless able to give it a full day, but maybe that's just me).

I'd also pass on day trips to Colmar or Strasbourg. Lovely places, but your time in Paris is already very short. After three very busy days of sightseeing, I would leave that day open for unstructured/spur-of-the-moment exploration, shopping/window shopping, a free museum or two, general flânage.

I am jealous you are taking your mom. Really nice to see. That said, your trip is was too packed especially given your mom's age. I am not trying to be insulting but that itenary would be tiring for me and I am in my early 40s and in good shape. Paris, more than any other city IMO, is about taking your time.

Instead of hop-on/off, I would do bateau bus. Takes you to the top 6 or 7 sights in Paris by boat. It is very affordable (15 euros per person for 2 day pass last time I was there). I have been to Paris many times and it is my favourite way of getting around and I never miss doing it for at least 1 day.

Strasbourg and Colmar are beautiful but too far and out of the way for a day trip as said by others. Look into Versaille instead. It is definitely worth making a day trip for it. Personally, I enjoy the garden more than the palace.

Your itinerary for the first 3 days will take you 4 days. I would 100% add Musee d’Orsay as suggested. While the Louvre is a must for size and scope of the art available, pound for pound, d'Orsay is better IMO if that makes sense.

I would get rid of the trips between Paris and Nice and just have 6 in Paris and 3 in Nice. Other things of interest in Paris could be Luxembourg garden, Palais Garnier, Musée Rodin, Elysee. There is so much more to do.

Nice is a very beautiful and relaxing town even though it is a large city. So many nice villages to see around too. It is worth to spend 3 days there.

Posted by
877 posts

Instead of the HOHO bus, consider Bustronome.com. They have lunch and dinner tours. The food is very nice, and they take you around to see the big landmarks. Starts and ends at Arc de Triomphe. It's not cheap.
I would go to Orangerie after Giverny. Maybe even the same day.
People on the Forum are very split over Avignon. I liked it very much, but I think on your timeline, it doesn't really work. Nor does Strasbourg/Colmar.
It looks like you have to drive past the airport to get from Nice to Vence, so be sure to take that into consideration in deciding when to get the car, etc.

Posted by
250 posts

I’m going to agree with the writer who suggested spending your time in Paris and Nice. While it’s so tempting to see everything while you are there, we have taken the RS’s philosophy - assume you’ll come back again! You’re not going to be seeing lavender this trip (which was on my bucket list also!) - plan on coming back for that! So I would spend 5-6 nights in Paris with maybe a day-trip to Giverny or Versailles, and 3-4 days in Nice. We actually stayed in Villefrenche-sur-Mer and loved it, so much quieter and quainter than Nice. The other towns along the coast were super easy to reach by regional train for day trips. You’ll be able to settle in and enjoy the time with your mother instead of being on the move all the time. Enjoy making memories of a lifetime!

Posted by
385 posts

I would skip the Orangerie because it’s small, about ten rooms, and two of them (Renoir and Cézanne) are closed. I’m here for two weeks, and the Orangerie has been the one disappointing museum.

Since your mom is an art lover, try to visit the Orsay, the Petit Palais, the Jacquemart-André, and the Marmottan. If she’s interested in female artists, the Jacquemart-André currently has a great Artemisia Gentileschi exhibition, and the Marmottan has an excellent Berthe Morisot collection. While walking around, take a few minutes to pop into the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and La Madeleine.

Posted by
131 posts

Less, Less, Less!

I am 71, fit and walk miles every day but when I looked at your itinerary I was exhausted! Get a map of Paris and France then map out where you want to go. Travel days, by my measure, are up shower etc, coffee and breakfast, pack, transport to the airport or train station to the next location, find and check into the hotel, settle in, unpack (if you need to do that) and then realize that you have spend the better part of the day getting to your next location. In my book, travel days are not sightseeing days but rather a check in on the location you are at unless the sites are easily seen, i.e. the Eiffel Tower. Travel days are ones to wander around the new place and enjoy that you are in Paris or Nice or St-Remey-de-Provence…
Enjoy your trip.