Four Days in Normandy

We liked the museum at Utah beach the best. We wished we knew how big it was in advance. My husband could have spent the entire day there. Pointe Du Hoc is not be be missed, as well as the American cemetery. I really liked the museum at Arromanches and you can see remnants of the artificial harbor on the beach. My husband thought the museum in Caen was very good. It's huge and at that point, I was at D-Day overload.

Sometimes, you hear that Americans are not always appreciated in France. Well, they are appreciated in Normandy. You will see the American flag flying everywhere and it really made me feel proud of my country.

I did not expect Normandy to be so beautiful. We had just thought about it in terms of D-Day.

You didn't ask about other places in Normandy, but we really enjoyed our time in Honfleur and Etretat.

Thank you. We wont have time for Honfluer, Rouen, Giverny etc, That will have to be another trip if we go back to France. We thought about Mont Saint Michel but that will have to wait also.

The museum at Caen was my personal favorite among the museums I visited at Caen in Normandy.

A nice way to end one of your days of visiting sights: attend the flag-lowering ceremony at the American cemetery.

Awesome suggestion with the lowering of the flag at American Cemetery. Will definitely do that. They play taps also, right?

In my opinion, Arromanches is a must and so is the American Cemetery. As Jules mentioned, seeing the remnants of the artificial harbor is an image that you will long remember and triggered my interest into learning as much as I could about the Normandy invasion.
Afterwards, go to the American Cemetery so you can mourn the loss of close to 9,400 young men who lie beneath their Lasa marble crosses and star of David’s, it will be a somber moment. I preferred these two sights more so than Omaha Beach and Pointe du Hoc.

Yes, we are going to Arromanches and the American Cemetery for sure. How about some good restaurants in Bayeux? We def want to eat some good food while there. And some spots for lunch along the beaches?

I wonder if the Caen museum would be best at the beginning of the visit as an introduction. It is more all encompassing. We did it last as we were leaving Normandy. My husband thought it was great.

The American cemetery had some marble maps inside a memorial. My husband and I really thought they were interesting. When we were there, my sons were in their early/mid 20s. Those men that died in Normandy were not much more than boys. Breaks my heart.

Thanks, will definitely look into that museum. So much to do and see! Thanks for all the replies so far!

Taps was played at the flag-lowering ceremony when I was there.

I'm one who liked the Caen Memorial (museum), but I spent the entire day there and cannot dispute the fact that it is expensive and crowded, though I suppose it may be less crowded right now.

The Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum in Bayeux itself is modern and of a more manageable size. It's on the outskirts of town. I imagine there's nearby parking, but I wasn't looking for that. I think there's a British war cemetery nearby.

The Airborne Museum in St-Mere-Eglise is of the old-fashioned sort with objects in cases and little if any use of modern display techniques. That doesn't mean it isn't worthwhile, but it's a very different experience from the museums in Bayeux and Caen.

Falaise has an excellent new museum about the civilian experience during the war. It doesn't cover troup movements, but there's lots of information about the Resistance.

The Bayeux tourist office does walking tours that are a nice way to get some historical background.

When I went to see the tapestry I had a ticket for the first time slot. That worked well in terms of not being part of a crowd.

Thanks Dave. I will find out what time they do that and we will go for sure.

Thanks acraven. I suspect that museum wont be too crowded in late October also, right? Are there many tourists there that time of year?

I see comments that refer to "the" American cemetery in Normandy as if there were just one. But there are two.

The more famous one is at Colleville-sur-Mer. The slightly smaller, and apparently less well known one, is the American cemetery just east of Saint James, east of Pontorson and southeast of Mont Saint Michel. This one is named the Brittany American Cemetary and Memorial, although it is located in Normandy. I assume the confusing terminology arises from how the boundary dividing Brittany from Normandy has changed over time.

It's easier to change the location of a boundary administratively than it is to move a graveyard. Especially an historically significant one.

Two Bayeux restaurant recommendations although you probably can’t go wrong anywhere in this part of France.

L’Assiette Normande
Le Pommier

Thanks Kathryn for the restaurant tips. Just looked at Le Pommier menu for the week and I would probably try the duck with crushed potatoes. I've never tried duck. Taste like chicken? Definitely have to try some escargot while we are in France. I've never tried that either.

If you are in Bayeux on a Monday night, make your dinner reservation in advance.

Tuesday thru Saturday

Since Sammy mentioned one other American military cemetery, here is a list of all of them in metropolitan France. https://fr.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/paris/sections-offices/abmc/

I'll add my recommendations for the Bayeux Museum, and the Utah Beach Museum (my favorite!!!). I'll add my voice to many who recommend against the Caen "museum" as a waste of time—not terrible, but there are much better IMHO. The airborne museum in Sainte-Mère-Église and the museum at Pegasus bridge are good for their coverage of airborne operations (American and British respectively), although the Utah Beach museum covers this well also for the American sector. The museum in Falaise is good for that sector of the war, but a little off the beaten track. Although there are many smaller museums, I particularly like the ones at actual sights, like the artillery bunker Batterie d'Azeville near Sainte-Mère, or the artificial harbor museum in Arromanches (currently due to reopen after a renovation).

For lunch along the beach, I recommend Hôtel du Casino at the western end of Omaha Beach, where you can sit outside in good weather with one of the best views of this beach. I have also had many a wonderful picnic lunch in my car at various points along Omaha Beach (particularly at the Eastern end) and Utah Beach (NW of the actual landings, but a wonderfully peaceful view of the ocean). There are many good restaurants in Bayeux, but I have eaten in a little place just outside of the entrance to the Cathedral twice (La Rapière?), and both times it was wonderful. For something more casual, Hôtel Reine Mathilde is a nice little place for outside dining if the weather is good. In downtown Sainte-Mère-Église, the Auberge John Steele is a nice restaurant with good food and friendly service. In Sainte-Marie-du-Mont (inland from Utah Beach) is a nice little place called L'estaminet right on the square by the historic church. This is the town where the link up between airborne troopers and amphibious soldiers took place.

Just to clarify, the American Cemetery in Saint James is technically in Brittany, not Normandy. And fairly far off from the D-Day operations themselves. Still, it is a good and humbling cemetery with half the interred, and a tenth or less of the visitors. Other cemeteries I recommend nearer to the beaches are the Canadian Bény Sur Mer Cemetery in Ryes, the British Cemetery in Bayeux on the ring road, and the German Cemetery in Orglandes (not to be confused with the much more visited German cemetery in La Cambre off of the highway). The British have several smaller cemeteries sprinkled through the area as well. And in them, you will often see several other nationalities represented—including Germany, and some nations who don't have their own cemetery in the area. There is a Polish cemetery on the highway to the Falaise Museum.

PM me if you want any more details, and enjoy your trip.

I've been to Bayeux 5 times, most recently for 4 days in October 2016 -- you will have an amazing time. I've been to most of the museums in the area and recommend the Museum of the Battle of Normandy in Bayeux and the Musee du Debarquement in Arromanches. Just across from the Bayeux museum is a lovely outdoor memorial to fallen journalists that I highly recommend (will take maybe 15 minuts to stroll through). Dining recommendations for Bayeux: L'Assiette Normand, Au P'tit Bistrot, and the casual Le Moulin de la Galette (I think it's close to the tapestry). I second the recommendation to be at the American Cemetery around 5 for taps/lowering of the U.S. flag. I'm not an expert by any means ... but I consider myself a WWII "buff." I've rented a car and driven throughout the area 3 times, but given that you have 4 days, I strongly recommend that for your 1st or 2nd day you book a full-day tour with one of the many highly rated, knowledgable tour companies. Then the next days you can fill in the gaps and revisit favorite spots.

I would add Le Petite Normand in Bayeux for dining. They have a delicious apple tart that your order when you order your meal. I would also encourage reservations for wherever you want to dine. We resisted doing that our first trip and sometimes were shut out of our choice for the evening.

I would second Shelly’s suggestion of spending at least one day with a tour. With your interest in this, it would be a shame to be distracted with the navigation aspect. Some of the meaningful sites can easily be overlooked because they don’t stand out. We used Dale Booth and liked him so well we did more tours with him the following year. I also encourage visiting one of the German cemeteries as well as the American cemetery. Each are sobering in their own way. We stopped at the German cemetery at La Cambe.

Advice to have a good guide - and many of those in that area are excellent, you've had good recommendations, for a full day is good advice. At the beginning and then fill in the gaps. 4 days sounds like a lot but you will be moving pretty quickly.

We were there nearly a week and we were moving pretty quickly. It is a big area. We found we were too tired to deal much with fancy food - meals for us were refuelling/resting stops.

The museum at Arromanches is excellent, as are the remnants in the sea.

The British cemetery at Bayeux has a different atmosphere and intimate quality which we loved.

I'm not a big fan of Caen.

There is great advice already in this thread.

PharmerPhil knows this area like the back of his hand.

Pharmer Phil may know the area well, but he is incorrect about one of his statements. The Brittany American Cemetery is located in Normandy. It's in département 50, La Manche, which is the westernmost département in Normandy. At its closest, it is located about 1400 meters NW of the boundary between La Manche (in Normandy) and Ille et Vilaine (in Brittany). It's in that small pocket of SW Normandy that dips about 12 km into Brittany

Sammy, I stand corrected. I guess I let myself be influenced by the American Battle Monuments Commission labeling it the "Brittany American Cemetery." It is fairly far from the landing beaches area however, but worth a visit if you have the time to get there. I visited it in combination with a trip between Rennes and Mont-Saint-Michel, from where I then set off for the landing beaches area.

Wow! Some great replies came in overnight. Thanks Phil, Shelly, Patty, Nigel and Sammy. I definitely appreciate all the great advice.

How about places for a quick grab and go breakfast? We want to be out and on the go early.

No sweat, Pharmer Phil.

There was a major battle at Mortain, east of Avranches and east-northeast of this cemetery, where the Germans tried to push west through territory liberated and held by the Americans with the aim of reaching Avranches, just to the north of Saint James. As I understand it, the Americans put up a pretty desperate defense, with severe losses, but the Germans withdrew under pressure from American and Canadian reinforcements headed toward Mortain from the east.

This cemetery at Saint James is for the Americans and there's another cemetery north of here and near the town of Marigny (now officially called (Marigny-le-Lozon) for the Germans.

As for places for breakfast open early, one can always try this world-famous restaurant in the area.

Lol! McDonalds! Def world famous for sure. You know what they call a 1/4 pounder with cheese in Paris?

early is in the eye of the beholder - most McDonalds in France don't open for breakfast, and those which do aren't renowned for early opening, much less 24/7.

The one in Bayeux opens at 9 - hours after local boulangeries.

Looks like you have a lot of great recommendations from many people more knowledgeable than me about the area. Another suggestion is walking along Omaha Beach at the "Les Braves" sculpture.

Thanks Nigel. There is a boulangerie really close to where we are staying.

Thanks KBK. We will definitely do that.

Check out the American Battle Monuments Commission, ambc.gov for a list of American cemeteries across Europe and elsewhere. Be sure and take in the little known and not often visited Suresnes American cemetery in Paris. It holds war dead from both World War I and World War II and is just on the outskirts of western Paris. If you happen to know the name of someone killed in WWII you can find where they are buried on the ABMC website.

RE: Mt. Saint Michel -- We got up early and drove there to arrive when it opened and well before the tour buses. It's about 90 minutes via the motorway and an easy drive. We were in and out in around two hours and then drove about 15 miles around the bay to have lunch at Cancale, in Brittany, famous for oysters but with good choices all along the waterfront with MSM visible across the bay. You can do it in a little more than half a day if you want. We drove the back roads on the way back to Bayeux, stopping in little villages to purchase local cheeses, meats, and Calvados which took most of the day. Good luck.

What a joy to find a thread that speaks to you! We too are spending our first 4 days in France in Normandy the first wk of Oct this fall! Just started planning this before our river cruise. We hope to do the historical battle sites along with site seeing. First timers and want to experience this area. Thinking Bayeau will be our base. Prefer taking public transport and will choose one of the historical tours from companies I see suggested. If necessary we could rent a car to see sites more complicated to reach. Love quaint old villages and scenic countryside. Gardens, churches, monasteries, ancient sites and seaside villages. Thank you to all who have recommended such helpful insight!

Ooops misspelled Bayeux!! Ugh…But I am pretty sure how to pronounce it!?

On our first trip to Normandy we found it very worthwhile to hire a private guide for a half day. He gave us a great overview of the area and pointed out things we would have missed. We were then able to dig deeper and use his suggestions, ideas to visit places on our own. Sylvain was terrific! https://www.d-day-experience-tours.com/tours/

So much great advice here.

We were fortunate enough to have Dale Booth as our guide while on a RS tour several years ago. He’s a fantastic guide. The night before the tour my friend and I watched the opening scene from Saving Private Ryan on my tablet. While it may or may not be technically accurate it really did serve to set the mood and scene for the next day.

Enjoy you trip. It sounds like great fun.