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foot passenger/ferry/train travel from Calais to London

We will be returning our rental car in Calais after travel in France and will take the ferry to Dover at the end of June. We are staying with friends in the Northeast side of London. We have never been there so we will need to orient ourselves of course to where we are going. I have a few questions.

Is it cheaper to purchase tickets for the ferry and the train ahead of time or is it just as convenient to purchase day of since we aren't completely sure what time we will be traveling? If we purchase ahead of time, I'm assuming that locks us into a specific time?

The train schedule and routes are pretty easy to figure out once we get into London right? Or should we study up ahead of time? Are there tips for passes to get us around London for 5 days? Our friends might be able to help with this.

We are pretty good with boat travel and do not usually need to worry about motion sickness. How is the ferry ride and should we be prepared with Dramamine?
Thanks in advance!

Posted by
5440 posts

I'm wondering why you want to take the ferry to Dover and then a train into London (and yes, pack the Dramamine- the crossing can be rocky). Why not just take the Eurostar train? There are a few direct trains daily from Calais that only take around an hour, arriving at St Pancras in London. You would want to book your tickets well in advance for the best savings

From there, ask your friends how to get to their place by tube. You will want to buy an Oyster card if you are going to use public transportation in London. Here's a link to a recent thread about it: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/england/oyster-card-e0f1eea3-d32b-4ede-a337-5d1302257dac

Posted by
4 posts

We are taking our adult sons on this trip and they each made a "top 5" not to miss list. One son has cross the channel and see the cliffs of dover as something important to him. We can take the train any day and will take several trains on this trip. Even if it's not that exciting we are planning on taking the ferry.

Posted by
33867 posts

Only one ferry company - P&O - takes foot passengers any longer on that route and it is logistically very difficult.

The car return is remote from both the city of Calais and the port. It will involve a lot of walking or a taxi. Boarding the ferry for foot passengers is "interesting" and time consuming. Most of the ferry is inside, just a few places outside to stand. The crossing could be smooth as glass (like snowballs in July) or it could be less so. Expect wind regardless. Most people stay indoors the full duration of the crossing.

Leaving the ferry at Dover can be "interesting" and time consuming for foot passengers. Immigration and Border Control is after arrival in Dover, in a little hut. The port in Dover is remote from the town and the station (there is only one station now, Dover Priory, now that foot traffic has disappeared) and will involve a fair walk or taxi from the port.

If walking on either side be very careful of the very heavy truck traffic. The ferries are used by many more trucks than cars and they are everywhere.

The train from Dover to London is relatively slow and makes many many unless you get one of the extra fare Southeastern Javelin High Speed trains into St Pancras. That high speed train doesn't pick up any speed until after Ashford.

I appreciate your son has his bucket list, but if you consider dropping your car in Lille and taking the Eurostar you will definately be considerably more comfortable. Where are you arriving in Dover from?

Where in northeast London do you mean? Tottenham? It makes a huge difference to the advice for London travel; knowing the zone (tell us where and we can figure out the zone) makes a lot of difference.

Posted by
1864 posts

We did this in late June a few years ago. Things could have changed, but this was our experience:
1. Returned Avis rental car at Calais ferry port. We parked in a lot and walked maybe a quarter mile to the Avis turn-in booth. The agent took the keys, but did not go out and look at the car.

2. We went through some very involved check-in process for foot passengers. The ferry was P and O. It took a while, I don't remember the exact details, but eventually we were all loaded on a bus and driven to the ferry. The ferry was huge.

3. Seating was comfortable enough. We sat right up front and had a clear view of the cliffs the entire way. The channel was completely flat and the day was clear. (After about an hour, English parents with their kids began appearing and pointing out the cliffs to their children. It was obviously quite important to them.)

  1. When we arrived at Dover, we went into a cavernous entry hall where we and maybe 50 other foot passengers claimed out check bags. Fifty years ago it would probably have been as crowded as an airport baggage claim area.

  2. After that we took a cab to Dover Priory train station. I think the train to London took about two hours. Do NOT attempt to walk from the ferry port to the train station - you will have huge lorries whizzing by as you traverse a narrow sidewalk and suck diesel fumes.

Posted by
533 posts

Immigration and Border Control is after arrival in Dover, in a little hut.

Is this a recent change? When I took this trip (in February 2016), we went through both sets of passport control (Schengen exit checks and UK entry) before departure from Calais. We were loaded on a bus and driven to two different little buildings where the two sets of formalities were carried out. We had to carry all our bags with us both times (not a problem for us, fortunately, because we packed light). To allow time for all that, we were told to check in at the ferry terminal one hour before the scheduled departure. We arrived about 55 minutes before departure, and we just barely made the bus.

P&O offers various levels of flexible fares to allow for people who aren't sure what time they want to travel (or who miss their scheduled departure). That might be a good option for your, pixarefun.

We had no problems with motion sickness, although we might have been lucky to travel on a day with calm waters.

The White Cliffs were a spectacular sight, and I'm glad we saw them. But I never want to go through the hassle of that ferry trip again.

Posted by
4 posts

Thank you everyone for your input. I will talk to our son and rethink this. Perhaps if he knows this information he will reconsider his priorities. Wish us luck!

Posted by
4 posts

Nigel,
BTW in response to your question...
Where in northeast London do you mean?

Our friends live in Chingford.
Thanks again for the advice!

Posted by
33867 posts

Chingford isn't exactly central London (more like the borders of Essex) so you will be on the train, bus or tube for an hour or more each way. You will be in Zone 5.

Chingford is at the end of a minor branch line from Liverpool Street Station. Your friends will know where they are and what they normally do when they go into London.