I'm attracted to the 11th by a couple of Parisien takes on Texas B-B-Q in the 11th, near Oberkampf and Parmantier Métros, east of République.
That's one part of Paris which is a black hole for me as far as knowledge goes. Is it sort of an extension of the Marais, which is close by; or is it unique? What sort of a neighborhood is the 11th? Anything else good there?
We usually stay at a friend's apartment one ring further out in the 19e but we've been to some nice restaurants in the 11e especially near Oberkampf. We have some other young Parisian friends who highly recommend this area for the restaurants.
On the Paris By Mouth website it lists recommended restaurants, with a link, in the post code 75011.
That area, though not the 11th as a whole, is hipster central, more self-consciously grungy than the Marais.
Hi Nigel -- To me the 11th is kind of where it seems the coolest and best restaurants and cafés are these days (I'm a little biased, as it's on "my side" of town, but it's not my actual arrondissement!). In some ways yes, an extension of the Marais, although most tourist Marais-goers would not think to venture there; it's also an extension DOWNward of République. I like the neighborhood a lot and think it has a LOT to offer. There are fewer and fewer scruffier bits, but some still exist.
I guess you're thinking of The Beast and Melt? I'm ashamed to say I've not tried either yet . . .but I could do some research on your behalf and report back! I have friends who are huge fans of the Beast.
A friend and I rented an apartment in the 11th last spring and are staying there again next month. We were 2 metro stops past Bastille and like the area a lot.
There were lots of good cafes, an excellent bakery, several grocery stores, and a few interesting shops all within a few blocks.
I think we were the only Americans in the neighborhood and everyone in the local stores and cafes was very friendly.
It's not a hip area but feels very authentic and untouristy.
Thanks all....
Kim, you nailed it. There was an article in a paper here about the Texas chic in Paris at the moment, especially in food. It mentioned both The Beast and Melt, and I - a real Texas B-B-Q fan for decades - got a bit excited.
I've been to the website of Melt so far and while the fact that it is all in French doesn't bother me a bit the fact that they don't actually reference the menu (carte) at all nor give any clue as to price-point. With all those rich sounding chefs it sounds expensive.
I haven't yet visited the website for The Beast but will soon.
Any on the spot research much appreciated.
The area to the east, approaching the parc Belleville, is one of those in-transition neighbourhoods where hipsters and artists and people who can't afford fancy flats rub shoulders. There's also one of several Paris 'Chinatowns' in the vicinity. Lots of other ethnicities too, of course (it's Paris!) Last fall I took a fascinating walking tour of Belleville graffiti, so much a matter of pride that these volunteered artworks are protected by the local municipal council.
I'll see what I can do! Tonight's already reserved for pizza at Popine (also in the 11th, but at Ménilmontant) -- for my birthday! 🇫🇷🍾🎉🍕
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!! 21 again!!!!!
Thank you!
And yes, 21, indeed! For the xxth time . . .
