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Five nights in Provence - most of plan but I'm open to suggestions

I'm going to be coming into Provence from Lyon in early June with 5 nights to fill out and no car. My interests run heavily to ruins (especially Roman), art, museums, things archaeological and anthropological, European quaintness and I'm a fan of Cotes du Rhone wine so I'm really looking forward to it. I've travelled in Italy, France, England and Ireland so I'm familiar the usual mechanics of getting around. I'm way more interested in Arles as a town than Avignon but all the good connections/tours are centered around Avignon.

My plan so far is:
Monday - train from Lyon to Orange relatively early, bus to Vaison-la-Romaine. Hopefully arrive with enough time to see the Roman ruins, try the wine cave and then wander the medieval city area in the evening. (Sleep Vaison-la-Romaine)
Tuesday - check out the market day in the morning, see anything I didn't see the day before and bus to Orange. Check out the Roman sights in Orange (hopefully stashing my bag but perhaps carrying it) before training to Avignon. Late afternoon/evening to check out Avignon sites. (Sleep Avignon)
Wednesday - bus to Les Baux-de-Provence and check out Les Baux (and maybe St Remy if time/bus schedules permit) and evening in Avignon. (Sleep Avignon)
Thursday - I'm torn here between going to see Nimes and take a day to do a Cotes du Rhone wine tour. If I do a tour I could certainly swap Wednesday for Thursday depending on what I can find. Booking a wine tour for one has proved problematic at first glance so I would need to find a booked party to tag along with, I think.
Rick is real fan of Pont du Gard and it fits right in my wheelhouse but unless I could link PdG and Nimes into a loop it seems like a big commitment to one see one sight rather than a new city. And left luggage becomes an issue unless I plan to return to Avignon to collect it before going onto Alres.
If I go to see Nimes the plan would be to return to Arles in the evening instead otherwise train to Arles after tour. Evening in Arles. (Sleep Arles)
** Friday** - Take all day Friday to check out Arles ruins, van Gogh sites, etc. (Sleep Arles)
Saturday up early to train back to Lyon before noon.

As you can probably tell I've been working on this plan but I'm open to suggestions for places/sights I may have missed or time allotted for activities. Wine tour (or tasting places in any of these places), left luggage or bus/train tips and ideas all welcome.

Thanks, really looking forward to finally seeing Provence,
=Tod

Posted by
3551 posts

U do not say why Nimes. It has a nice roman amphitheater but u will see one in Arles. I think a wine tour would be a gd alternative.

Posted by
876 posts

You say you’re into ruins and archeological stuff, if so I’ve some thoughts because you’re breezing through one of my favorite places. Your itinerary is similar to the one I had. The bus schedule may dictate things, but I found them reliable.

First off, the theatre in Orange is pretty spectacular. You’ll probably have time between busses to see it, but don’t skip it.

Kudos for going to Vaison, and on a market day! I LOVED this place. The ruins are pretty awesome and extensive. They rank among my favorites, and I’ve see Pompeii, Herculaneum and Roman Forum. Same with the market, it’s big and spread all over town. Better than Arles market, which is just on one massive drag. The market could be your whole day. I feel you are definitely not devoting enough time here. Vaison has a large Cave for the local wines, and that’s a very good area with famous vintages (Gigondas, Vacqueras, Seguret.) I don’t think there’s winery tours per se, but you’re a bike ride away from some of these places.

I would suggest maybe taking some of that Avignon/Nime time and putting it in Vaison. It’s got a lot of what you’re looking for, and you’re not giving it a full day right now.

I didn’t care for Avignon, but it’s easy to see Arles from there (very worthwhile.) Now, there’s a lot left on your list. I would suggest taking a minibus tour from Avignon. They can be easily booked at the TI. I went in one that included a stop in Les Beaux and a visit to Ponte du Garde. I thought this was totally worth doing and a good value.

PM me if you’d like more specifics!

Posted by
793 posts

Thanks for the feedback awrzesinski.

It sounds like we're on the same page and I'll keep that in mind - maybe allow for more time the second day in Vaison-la-Romaine for market day and maybe spend another night and check out the surrounding towns rather than Avignon.
And I'll be sure to see the the theater in Orange even if I have to heft my bag with me.

Have you been to St Remy? At least on-line the site looks likes it's worth checking out. Maybe I'll look to stay in the St Remy/Les Baux area rather than a day trip.

=Tod

Posted by
782 posts

Not mentioned is Gordes,a beautiful hill town and Pont du Gard and Nimes are pretty Close to each other,i really liked Nimes for it's Roman Archiecture.We stayed in Arles and loved the Grittiness of the town and the market,great Restaurants.
Mike

Posted by
793 posts

Thanks for the tips everyone!

I had decided on staying in St Remy and Les Baux until I realized the promised busses were weekend only or after July 1st. So I decided to pass on the hill towns and see Avignon, Nimes and Pont du Gard since Les Baux was so hard to get to....
Until I saw this: atelier-lumieres is doing Van Gogh in the illuminated mine.
https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/
So now I HAVE to get to Les Baux to see this - there is no other option. I can't be this close to this exhibit and not go.

So now I'm looking at renting a car for a day or two which is going to outrageously expensive to visit a 14euro exhibit that a 3euro bus should get me to, but some things have to be done.
If I have a car I may drop Pont du Gard and Nimes in favor of small towns now that I will have more flexibility.

Every time I think I have a plan and schedule there's some new piece of information that flips the table over and I start again. But I'm really excited about the possibilities!

Current plan:
Monday : Lyon > Orange TGV > Bus to Vaison-la-Romaine
Night: Vaison-la-Romaine
Tuesday : Vaison-la-Romaine - market day, bus to Orange last stop to Roman Theater Train to Avignon, evening Avignon
Sleep: Avignon

Wednesday : (Rent car) Wine Road drive?
Thursday: St Remy? Les Baux?

Friday: (Return car) Train to Arles
All day in Arles; Van Gogh and Roman museum and ruins shuffle

Sat: Early train back to Lyon

I have driven in hill towns and in the South of France before.
Renewed call for input with the car, thanks all,
=Tod

Posted by
26 posts

Is the Van Gogh exhibit in both Les Baux and in Paris? Les Baux has the Carrieres des Lumieres and L'Atelier des Lumieres is in Paris.

Is it the same exhibit? I ask because I'm also hoping to visit Les Baux and am equally drawn to the Van Gogh presentation.

Posted by
793 posts

Yes, I may have posted the wrong link but the Van Gogh show is in Les Baux -

Van Gogh, the starry night 1 March to 5 January
April, May, June, September, October: 9.30 am to 7.00 pm (last entrance at 6.00 pm)

http://www.lesbauxdeprovence.com/en/culture-patrimoine/16-carrieres-de-lumieres

Both "real" websites are really slow: http://www.carrieres-lumieres.com/

I've seen some tour packages from Avignon that include the show which I would do, but all the ones I've found they want you to supply the whole party rather than join an existing one.

Looks like a car rental for me - maybe take another look at the Luberon hill towns if I have a car.
=Tod

Posted by
885 posts

I am in the early stages of planning a very similar trip through Provence but for 2020 (September). Like you my interest is in the Roman sites of the area - and incidentally having some good food and wine! I am not fussed about visiting wineries - I live in an area where I am surrounded by them; the Roman sites will be the focus as well as some of the artists' haunts. I am considering basing myself in Avignon just because of the train connections; on at least one day I am looking at hiring a car and driver (I have found a few sites by googling, but have not yet followed up) Your itinerary has helped me a lot in my plans and I hope you will post a report once the trip is done, or maybe you could pm me when you get back. Thank you

Posted by
793 posts

Thanks bsmith I was worried my wife would be mad as missing out on this experience if I went without her in Les Baux, but I guess we can both go in Paris.

I'll definitely keep you posted Lesley - touch based with me after June if you don't hear from me. The current plan hits all the Roman ruins sites - Vasone, Orange, Pont du Gard, Nimes Arles, St Remy and Les Baux. I'll let you know if it ever gets boring. I'm going to be coming off 5 days in Lyon so I should be rested and ready and my French will have hopefully improved.

=Tod

Posted by
1819 posts

Hello,
We visited Provence this past September. Please don't skip Pont du Gard if you are interested in Roman ruins - it is one of the most impressive anywhere. The scale of it is huge!. Nearby Uzes was one of the most charming towns we visited. Another interesting site in that area is the painted Chauvet Cave about 20 miles north of Uzes. There is a video called "Cave of Forgotten Dreams" that tells you about it. Netflix has the video.

We skipped all of the cities except Aix - our interest was in the countryside and the small villages/ towns.

If you are going to Les Baux, the Barbegal ruined aqueduct is not far away. This extensive ruin is very evocative and you are free to wander around. The luminaries at Les Baux are memorable, not just for the show but also for the venue. I believe the ones in Paris are in an old warehouse - not quite the same as cream-colored rock slab walls.

Another lovely ruined site (medieval, not Roman) is Oppede de Vieux, near Rousillon.

I think Provence would be very difficult to visit without a car. We didn't find driving in France much different from driving on back roads in the USA and the rental car (Europcar arranged through Autoeurope) was not very expensive. If you are driving solo, you would probably want a GPS, although most of the medium size cars seem to have them.

Provence in mid-September was VERY hot - mid 90s most days.

Posted by
793 posts

Thanks for the suggestions and information everyone. I think I have my schedule set (of course I've thought that before) and I'll be renting a car for 1 day to get to the stuff I otherwise couldn't. I'm going to hit all the Roman sites I want to - or at least all I have time for since I'll be seeing something everyday.

It will be a whirlwind tour but that's okay. Hopefully it lays the groundwork for a longer return visit.
I'll report back when I'm home.
=Tod

Posted by
876 posts

I think the car is a good decision. Driving seemed pretty easy around there, and that gives you the ability to stay somewhere a little more interesting. Plus, you have your own schedule now. If I had a car, some more time in Les Beaux would have definitely happened. Enjoy, I think you’re going to have a blast.