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Errors in Rick Steves' France 2018

I recently arrived back after 3 1/2 weeks in France. I found several errors or problems in Rick's France 2018 book. Here are my comments:
1. Mont St. Michel does not allow one to check any baggage or back packs at either of the tourist offices. My son ran into this problem when he traveled there in 2016 and he was not able to get into the Abbey. He said he tried everything he could think of to safely stash his back pack but was not able to. I traveled there in May and after reading in Rick's book, I was sure my son was wrong and had missed some opportunity. So on arrival, I asked at the tourist offices and the shuttle bus driver I traveled there with and I was told the same thing. None of the lockers are now allowed to be used and there is no place to check luggage or back packs. My son was right. Rick needs to change this in his book.

The policy is ironic, because I stayed at a hotel on the Mont. As I arrived earlier than the check in time, I just dropped my luggage at my hotel and went on my way. If I were intending to blow the place up, I could just book a hotel, drop my luggage off at a hotel and leave the MSM.

  1. In the Dordogne, Rick notes that the Grotte font du Gaume is one of the best remaining caves to see. However, he says skip it if you don't get a ticket, which he says go on sale in January (as I recall. I dumped this section after I was done with the info). However, no tickets are on sale in advance any more unless you are with a student group or are a scholar. Everyone else has to go in person the morning of. Significantly, however, this cave is likely to be closed in the future as are many of the other caves in the area (think Lascaux). So it is worth seeing and taking the time to go early to get in.
    As Rick says to just skip it, he also provides no information on how to actually get a ticket, which requires a bit of knowledge and early arrival. I knew this only because I met someone who knew what I needed to do. So I got up early, and went to the Grotte. I arrived at about 8:00 am in late May. I have no idea how busy in might get in high season (by the way it is easy to find and there is plenty of parking, although the place looks really modest). Once I arrived, there are benches there numbered spots. You need to sit on a number on the bench and wait for them to open. There are only about 56 numbered spots. Then when they open, someone comes out and hands you a number corresponding to your place on the bench. At the cash register, you need to provide your number and a credit card (no cash) and then you get a ticket and a time for your tour. It was worth it.

  2. I have to take issue with Rick's directions in the Dordogne for his scenic loop drive. I rented a car with GPS, however, it didn't work well in the Dordogne. Many of the towns don't show up on the GPS so I relied on Rick's directions. When starting the loop drive, he says to follow the signs from Sarlat on D-704 toward Cahors. He then has some places to stop on the way. So far so good. After the Eglise de Carsac, he says "From here continue on, following signs to Monfort." I followed those signs, but here is where his directions left me lost. He never said to look for signs to La Roque Gageac or to get on the D46 in order to get to the D 703. I followed his directions to Monfort as he said which took me up to the castle. It was essentially a dead end. But I kept trying to figure out where was this road to take me "under" the castle. Without good GPS, I ended up hopelessly lost. It took me a long time to find one town I could plug in and get to the loop where I needed to be. His direction need to say that one must get on the D49 and then the D 703 from the D 49 to make that loop drive. A little more clarity would have saved me a lot of grief. His map was no help.

Buy the way, the town that finally got me to the right place was Domme. I was able to enter Domme and get accurate directions. I wish I had known this sooner.

Posted by
6790 posts

On the main forum page, over on the right side, click the link labeled "Guidebook Feedback Form".

Posted by
11881 posts

What "GPS" were you using that it seemingly failed? Be helpful to warn others to avoid it, if it not accurate or functional.

Posted by
3281 posts

This correction is already on the website for the France Guidebook

For books printed before May 2018, the following may apply:
The Grotte de Font-de-Gaume no longer accepts reservations by phone or email. Visitors should line up for tickets in the morning the day they want to visit.

Posted by
12314 posts

I just returned from the area. I wasn't impressed with Rick's coverage or his choices of the things to see. I knew that going in and brought a digital version of Rick's France plus two Michelin Green Guides (Languedoc and Dordogne). I think he gives a lot of weight to convenience. I ended up not even visiting Cahors because I had been so disappointed with his earlier recommendations. Did I really want to go out of my way to see a bridge?

I much prefer Conques to Rocamadour, Rocomadour was okay but Conques was a more beautiful town with a famous Romanesque church. It was similar in terms of being perched over a river, but it wasn't limited to one lane with a church above. I like Foix best of the three castles I visited in the Pyrenees. Peyrepertuse and Queribus were decent ruins, Peyrepertuse was much larger than I expected. Foix was more restored (not completely) and there were many displays in the different rooms.

Albi, for me was just okay. Yes, the church is huge and has a lot of unique features. I rarely stop in a town just for a church unless it's older and has special historical significance. The rest of the town didn't appeal and I'm not a big Lautrec fan.

North of there, the little town and castle of Najac would be on my list. The castle was a nice visit, only partially restored. It's relation to the town and church made a spectacular setting and great photo opp. I did have to go to the next town to get dinner because it's small and they weren't really open for business when I visited. Cords-sur-Ciel was ideal. I can see it being too crowded in high season but the town is maybe the prettiest town anywhere and should be on people's list.

Grotte Pech Merle was everything I hoped for. I considered Font du Gaume but balked when I saw it was essentially a 100 meter walk from the entrance of the Grotte to the paintings. Great for people with walking issues but not appealing to me. Pech Merle is a great cave visit with really nice authentic cave paintings. I had heard there wouldn't be color (just black and white) in Pech Merle but that didn't turn out to be correct.

I generally liked Rick's coverage of the Dordogne. St. Cirq Lapoppie, La Roque Gageac, Beynac, Castlenaud, Domme and Sarlat were all good choices. La Roque St. Christophe was a fun visit even if it wouldn't stand out as a top sight. My sister said her kids loved it when they visited.

St. Emilion really stands out. There are a lot of Troglodyte sights in the area but the Monolithic Church there stands out as maybe the best. It's a beautiful little town, even without the underground tour and the excellent wine they produce.

The Atlantic coast seems to hog all the sand in Europe. Miles of sandy beaches with few towns and small crowds (at least until high season) made it a great destination. I went just south of Arcachon, I think the Medoc area north of Arcachon gets more visitors. I didn't find anything that stood out in Arcachon.

I went to Bordeaux for the wine festival and that's about all I saw. The two churches I tried to visit were closed for repairs. There are some spectacular Portes (gates) from the 15th century. Bordeaux has limited public transportation (three tram lines and buses that don't run after 9) . It's pretty spread out. If you go, either keep your car (I turned mine in when I got there) or make sure you're close enough to downtown to walk. Even then, much will be too far for most casual walkers.

Posted by
12314 posts

For GPS, I use Copilot for Western Europe on my phone (with an Orange Holiday SIM Card). It costs roughly $30 to download Western Europe maps but is otherwise free. It navigates really well but I don't like it's search function. I use Google Maps to search for addresses to then put into CoPilot. Otherwise I avoid Google Maps because it hogs a lot of battery power and data. You can use Google Maps (and CoPilot) with data off but Google Maps won't search or reroute unless it has data. CoPilot will reroute without data as needed. I played with Waze a little but I'm not comfortable having all my data being shared with a third party(s).

Posted by
10 posts

The GPS I used was on the car I rented through Hertz. Thanks for the info. If I go back that way, I will keep your suggestions in mind.

Posted by
16895 posts

I'm glad that you've submitted your feedback to the book department. I think you probably had the book Best of France, since that's the one that remains "optimistic" about bag storage at MSM. On the other hand, this is what France 2018 says about storage at MSM (p. 312): Baggage Check: The parking lot visitors center has lockers for bags, though they can be closed for security reasons--call ahead.

France 2018 is very specific about how to get a ticket in person for the Grotte font du Gaume (p. 490). The Best of France book, with a more condensed format, doesn't describe the numbered seats but includes estimates on how early to arrive.

Posted by
3281 posts

Travelers have to realize that things change. I’m returning to Italy in September and the new Italy guidebook is set to be released on 18 September. Lucky me! But realize that most of the fact checking was done much before that and the the book was put to bed weeks before publication. So if you were to use the 2019 guide in May or June of 2019, the information contained in it is about a year old. A lot can change in that time. If you find something in one of Rick’s guides that is no longer current, report it so it can be published in the updates section of this website and you’ll be helping a lot of fellow travelers.

I looked at the “loop drive” in the guidebook and think that the directions should be clarified and the map redrawn. I could understand why someone could get lost. When on the road in Europe, I now use Google Maps or Waze. They even had the smallest villages in Corsica and Sardinia in their database and I never got lost looking for them. Unfamiliarity with a vehicle’s built in GPS can cause problems and I had a similar problem the first and only time I used one.